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Pictures from saac 35, first trip with stacker trailer, pulled just fine.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/sandyla...7625194008940/ |
Couple of things come to mind.
1. Transport on slideback tow truck. Reliable, car is up out of the way. 2. Put rear wheels on the dolly, back of car up in air, Put tape on the paint like what is done at open track events to prevent rock chips. This is assuming the exhaust pipes will clear, then secure the steering wheel with rope (like tow trucks do) to the brake pedal. |
Why would you tow it from the rear (dolly method)? What advantage would that provide?
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http://eddytheb.com/wp-content/galle...a/dscn1318.jpg
Just did a 390 mile trip for a guy $1.25 a loaded mile, sure seamed like money well spent car was dry, safe, free from the elements and insured the time it was in my care. Stop by and see what we are working on @ www.eddytheb.com |
Quote:
The only wheels that would be turning would be the front wheels. You would not have to worry about removing the drive shaft or any other issue that is being discussed by towing it from the front. But I agree with you that you do not need to remove the drive shaft on a manual transmission vehicle. They have been towed like that for many years. As a note; I think it was mentioned before the get the trailer with another vehicle and then change it to your vehicle. That would work, but if the rental company ever found out you would probably not be able to ever rent from them again. The rental companies are liable if they rent you a trailer that is hooked up to a tow vehicle that is too small to be towing whatever you need towed. At least they are in California anyways. |
The GVWR rating of typical 1/2 ton pickup is far below what is necessary to pull loaded two axle car trailer. The trailers that can be rented are built like tanks and will carry a LOT of weight. Altough they usually have brakes on the trailer, those on the truck are too small. Hence the requirement of commonly refered to 3/4 ton rated truck.
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