tips for inspecting a partial complete build

[SeanO]

Hi All,

Just looking for some tips for checking out a partial build.

I am a novice in this area and looking for a starter project (and found one) but before I check it out just trying to be as informed as much as possible.

Any tips would be most appreciated.

Thanks.

[Merv and Sharon]

Others will be more knowledgeable than me Sean, but I would want to know the manufacturer and if the kit comes with papers that demonstrate compliance with various State testing and ADR requirements (chassis stiffness, swerve testing, etc.). I would also want to know, if it has a motor, if that is also currently compliant.

If it has been built to a plan by a kit provider then most things should be compliant. However, establishing the make and its age and then seeking the views of folk with the same kit would be the way to go. Also, contacting the kit manufacturer would seem sensible. At what stage is the build currently?

[SeanO]

Hi Merv,

The shell was built by a company in WA more than 12 years ago that does not operate anymore.

The engineering has been endorsed but not clear on wether this is ADR compliant.

The car seems 80% complete (F/R Jag running gear, Gen3 engine, not wired and has cosmetics to do) so I can finish it off.

Price is good which is why I'm thinking seriously about it (around $10k) so allowing for the rolling chassis, engine and shell its good value.

[Merv and Sharon]

Sean, I would check with some of the guys from SA to see what the state requirements are and to what extent the car you are considering meets them. If the engineering has been commenced that is a good sign. Perhaps also contact the nominated engineer to seek his advice on that build and what needs to be done to meet 2011/2012 requirements.

There are a few people on here who have done the same thing that you are considering, that is pick up older builds. It can take more trouble and more expense to get some issues approved, but as you say it is cheaper at the start.

[Modena]

If you can divulge the name of the manufacturer folks on here will likely have more to offer, as the "gotchas" are different from kit to kit.

Ben

[boxhead]

You mention the body is from WA, but is the chassis from same supplier, or is this "home made"?
If it is a home made chassis, then welding certificates may be required, also torsional and beaming testing, seat mounting, side impact, seat belt mounting etc etc.
If teh chassis was made by teh body supplier, then find out who and if paperwork is supplied, but you also mention it has LS power, I would think that the chassis or part of (engine mounting?) has been modified, this will need to be certified.

If you can speak to any engineers that have been involved, that would be great, even better if teh same engineer is still approving cars and willing to do this one.

Also remember, a common phrase is "80% of the car is about 10% of the cost and time"

Supply more info if you can.

[Merv and Sharon]

As Dave says if you tell us manufacturer and perhaps some photos of the chassis Sean?

[Zedn]

I Bought my kit as an unfinished project. Fortunately very little had been done as most of what was done had to be undone.

First of all find out what test results you can get for it. Preferebly a beaming and torsion test and if possible then any testing for the seat and belt anchors. Its not much trouble to do a torsion and beam test, but if its already been done at least you will know it passes. Also, make sure the torsion and beaming test complies with VSB14.

Once you are satisfied with the chassis, look at what welds have been done by the builder. Look very closely at them to get an idea of the persons workmanship. Good looking welds arent necessarily good welds, but bad looking welds usually are bad welds.

As others have said, find out who the manufacturer was. If you can get some photos, that would help also.

It isnt this one isit?
AC Ford Cobra Kit Car Adelaide pick up | eBay

[Gav]

Jeez you are a gamer man than me if you bought that one.
However if the engineer could be contacted, and it had relevant doc's it would be a cheap starting point.

[Mando]

It looks like a Paul Wooley car to me who owns Adelaide Glass Cars. There is a member here on Club Cobra that has an Evans kit that is the same as a Wooley car. He might chime in or you could do a search.

Regards.

[Outwest34au]

Originally Posted by Mando

It looks like a Paul Wooley car to me who owns Adelaide Glass Cars. There is a member here on Club Cobra that has an Evans kit that is the same as a Wooley car. He might chime in or you could do a search.

Regards.

The chassis is a bit different to my Evans.
I have diagonal beams also under the seat area, the front of the chassis rails is angled on mine (radiator leans back), the fuel tank bracket is non existent on mine, don't have a round front tie rail. doesnt have the bulge in the bottom of the footwells and a few other things. But for all intents and purposes it mimmicks a Wooley, or Evans or W & E.
If it is a derivitive of the W or E family be prepared to do a few mods which may include having to cut the top control arm mount plates off, remove some RHS and reweld them so you can get camber. Depending on your seats it may be nigh on impossible to fit seatbelt retractors down on the floor, I relocated mine halfway up the back firewall and they cross the body in the traditional direction.


These old kits are a laugh a minute.

[just dreamin]

The most importany bit of paper you need is "Statement of Requirements" Which is issued by Dept of Transport SA and is the requirements and approval for the car in question. Even an old and non current document is better than none. Your other option is to contact the engineer and see what records he holds. If it is a Classic Glass car they are no longer in business however the cars are accepted in engineering circles for registration in SA subject to a whole lot of other requirements.

[SeanO]

All great feedback thanks.

I have a relative whom is an engineer (but I think likes difflicut projects sometimes...). he suggested I take the time to go and have a look at this one, be cautious but realistic as he said "there will always be another project".

In me posting the below someone else may cut my lunch but hey if the guy sells it then I've done my good deed!

AC Cobra - Muscle & Classic - Ford Muscle Cars For Sale, Mustangs For Sale

[boxhead]

Looks like a Toyota crown based car to me, could be a minefield.
The underside front end shot is not jaguar, it has been a while since I looked under a crown but my memory says it looks the same?

[Outwest34au]

If memory serves me correct the crown chassis company was in Trigg WA,
I looked at building one umpteen years ago, even had a ford 8 3/4 mounted up in a real good chassis I found, but what put me off was the lack of inner gaurds/ firewalls and the fact that there were reports of cracking where the chassis was shortened. I think I may have read that in snake tales back in the late 80s or early 90s. They had been cutting the chassis right at the spot where it sweeps up at the diff area. I am no engineer but it looked like a terribly wrong spot to do the cut to me.
The crown chassis is waaaayyy long and some would need to be cut to mount the body (can see that has been done) but just check how and where it has been done, check if it is fishplated.
If it was the purple one and had all them bits it wold be a real good score.

Keep us informed please mate.

[Zedn]

Toyota crown was my first thought with that front end.

Ask the seller if it is toyota based. If it is, i would probably give it a miss. They regularly pop up for sale on ebay unfinished.

Maybe contact the guy in the ebay ad and do a bit more research on that one. Do you have a budget? Whilst the cost of a cobra seems like a lot in a lump sum, when you are building it and spending over time it isnt such a big hit. Tax returns and bonuses have paid for most of my parts.

If that guy on ebay is asking 4k for a body and chassis, that is super cheap. You can pick up a gen3 with gearbox and computer for a couple of grand.

[David Hodgson]

Definitaly a Crown chassis and definatly not a G-Force body. If the chassis has been shortened in the righ spot for best seat placement, IMO with a live axle, the rear trailing arms end up too short.