Warren

What does your *preparation for starting* process entail? My block has been dripping oil for about 6 weeks (so far and a few to go yet) so all the oil galleries will be effectively empty. The heads and valve train are all new. Plenty of oil and assembly lube used but I am wondering how to fully oil the engine before starting.

Geof

Geof

You can pre prime by removing the dizzy and with a long hex drive and either a drill or speed brace, wind the pump 'till you pump oil through the engine. Cant remember which direction to rotate, but obviously the same direction as your dizzy spins, or
disconnect your coil and crank the engine untill you have oil pressure, then crank another 5 to 10 seconds should be enough to refill galleries and get oil to your mains.
Reconnect coil and start. Cam break in is another procedure, not sure if it is still done these days.

Remove the filter and fill it with oil (then refit it) just before your going to do either of these.

Get an old distributor, remove the cam drive gear, insert distributor in the hole, attach drill to the rod that pokes out at the top and turn it anti clockwise for 15 to 20 seconds, turn the engine 1/4 turn then repeat a couple of more times. Engine will now be full of oil and you havent even run it yet. Good way to get oil everywhere before that first important startup.

All good,
Geof, I have the tool if you cannot find an old distributor, I can post it to you if you cannot get one locally.

I would then change the oil and filter after a few hours of running.

Phil

Great info blokes! Thanks very much.

Very generous offer, Phil. Thanks. I will see what I can come up with here and will let you know.

Geof

Ford Small Blocks - Engine Blocks

That is a great 'site Warren. Their tech info ("Dart University") has some great stuff.

Wazza, This might be a dumb question. But what were the symptoms when you "broke the block" on the track ???

What about the Boss block from Ford?
How does it stack up to the dart block?
marvin

There weren't any !!!!!....

Smooth strong revving....then a " shudder" through the car....and the engine stopped like I'd hit the "kill" switch....( or...as I have it marked on the
dash " Sh*t " switch !

The block actually "pops" apart....it's certainly not a gradual thing that's for sure

Late evening last night....new engine fired up and sounds really strong...
I recon that the thicker engine block seems to muffle any sounds coming from the engine bay...and the sound coming out of the pipes sounds way stronger....

Back to it now.....

some running in bits and pieces to be attended to....

Dyno early next week ( Running in, and a final tune )

....ready for the A series sprints...Racing next Friday.

Would LOVE it to be the last major drama for a while....really over it!

Cheers,
Warren.

Sorry Marvin....more than I know...someone else might have the answer.

Cheers,
Warren.

HUGE thanks to Scotty Hampson, ( Ozvenom)....for putting the engine together last week, and for all of the extra effort in finding and fixing a whole pile of little things that needed to be done.

Much appreciated.......champion bloke !

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...0/DSCF4443.jpg

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...0/DSCF4444.jpg

Now let me kick your ar** at the Nationals......Deal ??!:LOL::LOL:

Cheers,
Warren

Strength wise,probably the same. The Dart block is a true Windsor block beefed up in the needed places, the Ford BOSS block is a combo of the old Cleveland block and Windsor block...
With a Dart block, you use all the "standard" Windsor things like head/intake gaskets, head bolts/studs and such.
With the Ford BOSS block, you must use a specail head gasket ($$$$) you have to order a right and left side, same with head bolts/studs.......if your using Windsor heads, you must drill steam holes in your heads to match that of the BOSS block....

The only thing I like on the BOSS block over the Dart block is the screw-in freeze plugs and screw-in,o-ringed oil galley plugs...
I have a BOSS block, but if I had to do it over again, Dart all the way...

BTW: Unless you own a NASCAR or NHRA team, don't bother calling the Ford tech line and asking them something about the blocks/engines......

BTW 2: My BOSS block leaked oil out the rear main seal from day one, tried 4 seals,3 different brands, same thing, once the oil warmed up to about 120 degrees,it started leaking....
Called Ford,had to crate the bare block up and ship it to them in Michigan,they checked it out and said nothing was wrong,sent it back, I re-assembled the engine, same story...had a machinest check the block, the rear of the block where the rear main seal fits was machined .050 out!!!!!!!!!!!!! Ford says it's fine!!!!!!!!!!!!

David

Thanks for he info.
marvin

My engine is in and running also! time for a few late night 2 hour drives to get her all bedded in.... then off to the dyno thurs arvo to finalise the tune then off racing this weekend... just in the nick of time..

http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/pict...d=6243&thumb=1
http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/pict...d=6244&thumb=1

Looks really great! All that blue ....

My money is on the blue motor :) red has something to with chev. tch, tch.:LOL:

It's Red and black....you know...the same colour as the car......

It's NOT Chebby orange !

I've tried Blue engines, Black engines...and they broke....so Red will do me this time .
See you on the weekend.

I hear a Hay Bale attacked you at Leyburn....Poor bugger !

they're factory specs for a Ford aren't they :LOL:

I guess so.....funny thing is I've been using the older Ford blocks all my life. The ones with the old style 2 piece rear main seal and soo far,have not had one leak a drop of oil and one engine I built back in the mid 90's is still running strong and to date has not missed a beat,nor leaked a drop of anything..........
Newer is not always better........

David