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Looks like a lot of work there Greg. I wish I'd used all the same colour filler on mine. I've had about 4 different batches now all different colours.
This is turning into an interesting thread. Keep the input coming guys! Cheers |
I assume this means Ian's mould has either done a lot of bodies and it tired or is somehow moving as I'd have thought you would all have the same sort of deviations to fill.
That doesn't seem to be the case, can anyone explain that? I've a boat building mate that pumps out a lot of very nice gel coat finished hulls and all they need is a buff to finish off for delivery to the owners. I know the moulds have a limited number of times they can be used before surface finish defects start to occur and it becomes more cost effective to build a fresh mould over the amount of rework needed to each new hull. Though come to think of it the cobra bodies are multiple mouldings aren't they?. |
I think it probably has more to do with how the parts are trimmed and then bonded together. The doors, boot and bonnet are all made from 2 skins bonded together and the doors also have the added complexity of a metal frame inside.
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Also how they are stored while curing, and in temperature extremes.
My right sill had more waves in it than the Atlantic ocean, I used a heat gunn and clamps. To pull mine back into shape. |
Heres some pics of my drivers door fit as received,
The Passenger door is a very nice fit, chalk and cheese actually. http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...20_Custom_.JPG http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...21_Custom_.JPG My Passenger door is the same gelcoat as the body, the drivers door is a sickly white, suggesting it wasnt done at the same time, or possibly even a different mob. |
Not that I really did any body preparation, perversely I have to thanks Shannons for that, but I did fit up my various panels and have to say that even the old G-Force body was pretty spot on.
I recall noting some of the filling Greg did and the only significant area was I think the centre of the driver's door and a modest amount on the tops of the guards for roundness otherwise mine was all good. Bit of a shame to see how lax some of this manufacturing QA/QC is in this game. |
I think Dave is correct that the time/temperature or even the way the bodies are stored during the cure time has a lot to do with it.
My drivers door has the same issues as the others shown here but other than that the body/flash lines etc where not too bad. My drivers side front wheel arch flare is not as wide as the passenger side, but that only became obvious when I modded the front brakes and the track was widened slightly. It annoyed me at first but together with my therapist I have now gotten over it! |
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Nothing changes
Guy's,
My 1989 RMC has different rear wheel spacing ( 10mm on the right side ). When I changed to 17" rims I should have made it 20mm as the smaller side wall increases the gap. As Greg states, I am probably the only one who notices. STIFFY |
Well if I ran the same camber left and right My right tyre sticks out side the guard my about 5-6 mm so I guess when my tyres wear down I will notice it more
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If you haven't painted yet I reckon it would be a simple fix to cut and widen the flare Alffie.
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I have the same front guard issues. Before I bolted the body down, i made sure the front guard were even with the wheels. But the front bumper brackets were out of line with the brake vents, and the chassis touched the body at the front on one side but cleared it by 10mm on the other side. I suppose it'll behard to get the perfect body shell.
I'm so happy that i got my cobra ready painted. JD |
Nah already painted, will be one of the things I fix when I do an update, Ive looked at machining 5mm off the rim but not keen on it. Iam looking at a hard top so might adjust the guard when I paint the hard top.
Anyone fitted A/C to there cobra? |
Hey Alffie, Cameron Parsons had AC on his superformance and Phil Neall is fitting it to his at the moment.
I spent a lot of time getting the body even on the chassis - measured vertically off the hubs using a spirit level to get it right - had to bend the handbrake bracket a bit to get it out of the way (otherwise when I moved it left at the back - it moved right at the front and vice versa). I reckon mine is pretty spot on now. Half the prob with bodywork is adjusting the hinges so that the least amount of work\filler will be needed to get it right. I found it a lot of fun and enjoying it all again with the hard top (although that has been put aside for a bit while I prepare for engineering in Feb) http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/e.../WP_000425.jpg |
A/c
Hey Alffie,
I had to put A/C into the Daytona ( Rego ) it was a pain in the arse.... Its a very tight fit under the dash and it affected the steering angles. All I can say is good luck........ STIFFY |
Very interesting thread, and I thought all that the body needed was paint, according to the ads anyway hahaha !!!
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I heard the G force display car is white gelcoat as it came out the mould !
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Has anyone seen a Five Factory Body before Paint?
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