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Thanks Peter,
I contacted the company that sold me the other parts but they dont have them. Not sure what i will do yet, might just get a laser/waterjet place to cut some out for me as it is pretty simple design of just 4 holes and bolt holes. |
steel plate and hole saw.
Give windsor exhaust a call on 02 45885533 part of there business is to supply parts to other exhaust companys. Liverpool exhaust also produce a lot of there own bits (02) 9602-3111 |
Give Daren a call, they have their own CNC laser cutting setup and they make all kinds of flanges. They probably have them in stock.
> ABOUT US Cheers |
Cool, thanks guys.
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Are the headers flanges still straight? Is there a trick to keeping them straight? I tried what you did, by clamping them but I still have about 1to 2 mm clearance on the ends. So I liniched it flat. To bend the pipes I bought 180 degree curved pipes and cut to suit.
With ceremic can you touch the pipes, the same as if you wrap them? JD |
Mine turned out pretty flat. I clamped the flange to a section of heavy angle when I welded them.
Cheers |
They were slightly bowed to begin with so I installed them so they will pull back in when welded. I have only tacked them in the plates so far, will secure them better when finish welding. I use a tig so have good heat control.
I'm not happy with shape of the second tube as the curve is not smooth. I'm planning to cut it out and redo it. Ceramic is still hot to touch. But I don't plan on touching them and like the look over wrap. |
There's quite a few good tips in this video I found a while back.
The other guy to check out is Welding tips and tricks. Lots of really great info. weldingtipsandtricks - YouTube Cheers |
Yeah, I watched that a few weeks ago before I started.
One really important thing I found was to do minimal tacks on the flange plate. The way my pipes overlap, I had to cut a couple out once tacked so I could weld right around. Cleaning inside the pipe also helped a lot with stopping contamination in the weld pool. One thing I hate about tig is how susceptible it is to oils and scale. I am thinking I might spray them with high heat paint for now and then ceramic coat after rego so I can spend the money on other parts needed to get finished. Would this cause any additional cost for ceramic coating? I think they sand blast them anyway. |
Thats a true trait of TIG make it all clean and tight ! Don't bother painting them at all...the coaters will blast them regardless if they are painted or not......charging more to remove paint !
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And if you're into machining make sure you watch Keith Fenner. Those videos from stainless headers are awesome too, required viewing if you're DIY headers. |
Got some more work done on the headers.
This is the drivers side. Very tight, and then throw in the steering shaft just to make it tricky! Had to do a lot of pie cuts to get the tight bends. http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...0/header01.JPG http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d.../header05.jpeg http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d.../header04.jpeg http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d.../header02.jpeg http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d.../header03.jpeg |
Bundle of snakes!
Looking good. |
Good work.
Makes the pipes for my car look simple! |
Plenty of room in the CR Gav, should have been able to make them pretty simple.
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Wow that is tight. looks great, keep the updates coming!
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