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As Mike said earlier the late model Commodore pumps are hard to beat. Installation is easy (Drop in tank), you might have to shorten 2 rods on the pump depending on the depth of you tank. The pump has inbuilt pressure regulation and plumbing on requires a single fuel line (no return) and best of all - they're quiet and cheap. A good source is Premier Auto Trade in Mentone, Vic.
Peter |
I have installed a walbro high pressure pump in tank and then used the corvette filter with built in regulator. Im pretty happy with it so far but im yet to start the car.
I have one fuel line and then another line for the evap to the charcoal canister. http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d.../IMG_01321.jpghttp://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d.../IMG_01521.jpghttp://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d.../IMG_01612.jpghttp://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...0/IMG_0180.jpghttp://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d.../IMG_02331.jpghttp://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...0/IMG_0133.jpg |
Beautifully fabricated, as always Mike. I haven't seen how far people push the envelope with dead headed systems. Are you confident that there won't be a pressure drop in the fuel rails at WOT?
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Mike - What capacity is your tank?
I have initially fitted VE Commodore mufflers to ensure it will pass inspection and that really limited the width I could go with the tank. I only have 47 ltrs but I'm anticipating 10 ltrs/100km so I think (hope!) it will be okay. I went the soft option of an in-tank pump from the donor car. |
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My theory is that the rails are 3/4" ID which is quite a bit larger than stock. The main line feeding them is 1/2" where the stock line is 5/16" I think. So there is a heap more flow and volume in both of those which should keep a good head of fuel available. Then the Pump is an 044 which will be able to keep up with any demands I can throw at it. Hopefully the regulator will respond fast enough to keep up with any pressure drop. Fingers crossed it all works. Cheers |
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Not sure what the final capacity will be. I'm thinking up around 80L I'll have to measure it up and calculate it. Cheers |
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Cheers |
I'm almost embarrassed to show this after seeing the Aluminum artistry on the Pace 427.
I've just done some of the finishing touches on my fuel tank. I fabricated and welded in the front mounts. I'd been holding off doing these as I was a bit worried about the strength of the front mounts. I had a sit down and a think about how the mount would work. Things to consider were the flexing of the tank at the mount leading to a fatigue crack. To address that I kept the mount as close to the corner as possible where it's most rigid. I also made the mount wrap around the corner of the tank to support it in 2 planes. http://i1247.photobucket.com/albums/...psca7205ed.jpg I need a lot more torch time to get my aluminum welds looking like a stack of dimes but they are plenty strong enough and out of sight under the car. Here's a pic of the rear mount. These are welded to a plate which spreads the load over a larger area. Another consideration was what happens If the car gets hit in the rear? I slotted the mounts so that if the rear of the chassis rail is pushed far enough out of whack it should pull out of the rubber grommet rather than tearing the tank open. http://i1247.photobucket.com/albums/...psdb94da66.jpg The rubber mounting should provide some isolation between the chassis and the tank. This should hopefully reduce the noise transmitted to the chassis from the fuel pump. More importantly they should dampen road shocks going to the tank and reduce the fatigue on the mounts etc. To hold the rubber grommets firmly in place but not crush them they are mounted on bobbins that are bolted to threaded inserts welded into the chassis. http://i1247.photobucket.com/albums/...ps905ee434.jpg The front mounts were a heap easier to do now that the rear suspension is out of the way. Cheers |
Nice work Mike, getting there buddy!
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Keep it up Mikey, see ya at the Nationals.
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Nice work Mike, a picture tells a thousand words. :)
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