What do the suspension brackets bolt into? Do they have nuts on the back or a threaded crush tube?

Any concerns about dissimilar metals? I always wonder about that with using high tensile bolts in an alloy motor. I use stainless if not structural, but obviously not an option in suspension.

Zedn, crush tubes and the bolts that mount the suspension brackets bolt right through the crush tubes with hardened washers & nylocks.

To solve the problem of dissimilar metals we use and recommend anti-seize for threading rod ends etc into aluminium suspension arms. And loctite on everything else that does not have jam/lock nuts.

This is ample from our experience.

There are other products that are suitable, these are just the ones we use.

Thanks for the tip Craig.

Liam

Looks like a whole lot of fun Brad.

Cheers

More Fun Today
 

Steering Shaft Bearing

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...ft_Bearing.jpg

Front Shocks and note the Adjustment Knobs

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...ment_Knobs.jpg

Rear Upper Wishbone waiting for its Mate

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...ontrol_Arm.jpg

Front of the Chassis

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...ont_of_Car.jpg

Close Up Of the Brake Rotor

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...uspension3.jpg

Brake Rotor and Pushrod for the Bell Cranks

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...d_Push_Rod.jpg

Brake Rotor and 4 Pot Brembo Brake Calipers

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...bo_Caliper.jpg

And a special thanks to Boxhead and Sambo for their help in the early days of my posting photos on the forum

Cheers

Brad

looking good. Build threads are always interesting especially with such a high quality kit.

Looking really nice.
Where did you score the electric demister? I've been mucking around with a 12volt hairdryer.
JD

I have used the 12v hairdryers before, just not quite as reliable and suitable as you would like.

We have the demisters in stock, will have to look up pricing for you. We bring them in, in large quantities to make them viable. We also make the ducts to suit. Best solution I have found so far.

Any updates? Cmon already.....:LOL:

The hairdryer is just to satisfy rego. Would a demister really be necessary in a open car. How much current does yours take to run?
JD

I had no evidence of a roof being fitted ( ie no studs for fitment of soft top ) so deemed a roadster so no heater/ demister required. ADR 15 I believe.
Cheers

I didn't think a demister was necessary because of the roof but was needed because of the windscreen. If I remember correctly if I didn't install a windscreen then the demister wouldn't be required.

Regards.

Wiper and washer required with windscreen, demister required if provision for roof.

Australia is like living in 7 different countries. So many different rules. Which state is the easiest and which is the most difficult?
JD

Brad, should be back at the factory today working on his pride and joy. He has been busy and has not had a chance to do anything on it of late.

The demister requirement is tricky as the original street cars had soft tops. It is also common for replicas to be fitted with soft and hard tops. So it can be expected the car should be designed to accommodate a top ADR wise even if the top mounts are not there at the time of registration as they can be easily added after. This is up to engineer interpretation. We supply a demister as standard in our Comprehensive Kit, but we also supply that kit with soft top and tonneau.

Hi Guys

About the updates well i have been busy (why does work interfere with pleasure) and when i arrived at Absolute Pace this morning all the bodies at the factory were involved in dismantling all my previous work so we could fit longer suspension upper and lower control arms to better accommodate the 17" wheels.

Its all systems go now and Friday the diff will be installed a 3.7 LSD ratio should get away from the traffic lights faster than a Toyota Prius haha.

Maybe brake lines as well it depends on Craig and Don does that put you guys under the pump or not.

Regards

Brad

Why different arms?
Surely with the computer added testing that has been so highly flauntered. This should have been right?



Hmm, if that was wrong on computer simulation, I wonder what other bits may not be quiet right.

Maybe testing a physical car (rather than doing it on a PC) is more important than thought?

Boxhead, due to the different positions of 15" tyres compared to 17" tyres in the guards we were trying to run the same set of arms for all wheel choices. We already run different uprights for 15" wheels compared to 17 wheels & larger.

But decided to bite the bullet and also supply different length arms depending on whether the customer wants to run 15" wheels compared to 17" wheels. It's purely a cosmetic thing, the existing arms operated correctly and had the required strength etc when adjusted to support any wheel choice.

It's all because we are dialling in the look of the wheels/tyres exactly in the wheel arches. And want the owners to be able to fill the guards with whatever wheel/tyre combination they choose. The main issue is the additional bulge/bagging a 15" tyre has compared to 17" or larger tyre.

It is mainly a problem with fixed offset wheel choices, like pin drive wheels.

And customers can still fine tune the wheel/tyre fitment in the guards to the mm by adjusting the joints on the arms. Handy to cater for difference in tyre bulge between 17" & 18 tyres. Even handy if you are purchasing custom offset wheels as you can still fine tune fitment with the suspension to dial them in perfectly.

There are no mistakes like this, this product is dialled in to the nth degree. The development cost of this product is high. I believe much more time and money has been spent on the PACE 427 than any other Cobra replica kit in Australia. But I hope the results show that.

And due to the aggressive nature of the pricing we have optimised construction as much as possible and running two different arm lengths increases production cost slightly.

So those arms that have been pulled off are suitable for 15" wheels. Brad you should have gone with 15" wheels. :)

Actually what Cobra replica out there has different arm lengths & different uprights for different wheel diameters...none that I know of.

Handmade lines are easy, but CNC bent stainless brake lines we provide standard with the kit have a longer development & supply time. But they will be here very soon and you are going to love them. :)

We have also developed one set of hard brake lines that cater for virtually any pedal box location. So one set of brake lines for any size/height driver.

Sounds fair, limited choice due to rim suppliers does make it hard.

I thought I may have had more trouble than I did when I went from 17 to 15 on my CR.