Ok well I guess one request is one request so here goes.
I'm not saying this is the gospel on bullet proofing a gen 3/4 Chev, it's just what I have found out from scouring the net.
Obviously if it's just a road car then this stuff doesn't need to be addressed.
This is the stuff I found out when researching race LS engines.
Fitting an underdrive crank pulley is a good idea, slows down everything especially if you are going to rev it hard all day.
Standard water pumps cavitate at high rpm (above 6,000) so if you're intending to keep it at those revs then you will need to fit either an electric water pump (Meziere about $900) or an aftermarket Evans or Edelbrock. A standard pump just won't keep the engine cool at higher rpms.
An engine builder (Spencer Race Engines) told me that they found with the standard LS engines that the piston gaps were never even enough, some tight and some loose so the increased heat on the tight ones causes the piston to seize and therefore destroying the engine so make sure you run the engine a little rich at WOT.
If you are running power steering then you need to run a cooler..... otherwise it will cook the fluid.
You need to replace the spring loaded serpentine tensioner with a solid tensioner, available everywhere. The solid tensioner will stop your belt from getting thrown at high rpms.
Comp cams make a trunion bearing upgrade kit for the rockers, this kit is about $130 and will stop the standard needle rollers from ending up in your sump. Apparently the weak point in the rockers was the needle roller bearings, the rockers themselves are ok.
Also, something I haven't done yet but will do is fit a Crank pin drill fixture...
http://www.summitracing.com/int/part...8993/overview/
Basically the LS engines have a keyway for the
oil pump drive but not for the zero balanced balancer / pulley and at high rpm's the balancer can slip..... causing problems....
And last but not least there is reports of engines holding too much
oil in the drivers side tappet cover.... Mostly this is because the Americans only turn left....
And lastly a lot of talk with earlier LS3 engines not having a good enough baffled / trap doored sump. Best fix is fit either an Accusump or a dry sump. Accusump will cost you around $500 in parts and a drysump will start around $4000..... Unless you buy a racecar that already some of the dry sump stuff in it and then it only costs you $2500....
I think that is about all I can think of for now, if there is any more I will let you know.
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