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LS3 bits and pieces
Ok, don't be hate'n.
I have decided on an an LS3 for my car. If I go for a crate engine what should I be looking for, where should I be looking and what extras do I need to consider/need? Assume I am an engineering numpty, (.....you probably guessed that already). I've seen them previously on Holmart and preston motors have a package of ls3 and tremec six speed manual for $10k |
MAF, O2 sensors, ECU, loom that will need to be modified, oil pressure/temp sender, water temp sender, alternator, idler pulley, p/steering pump, belt, straight neck water housing... just a few things I had to source for my LS.
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Out of interest, was there a reason why you decided on an LS3 over an LSA?
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I figure that an ls3 will be much better as a daily driver than an LSA. I've had the pleasure of driving an ls2 in a cobra and that was powerful enough for me.
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The LSA is a world class engine.
Keep in mind that you need a hefty fuel system to support it plus intercooling etc. It all adds up. Do not discount the LS2 family, plenty of power with a few tweaks. My old stock but well tuned LS1 turned the 295 tyres in a 1200 Kg car. Ben |
I recon the best place to look for LS stuff would be........the junk yard.....darn Chev's.....
Sorry sorry........surely I jest.....:LOL: |
There is a lot of extra plumbing etc involved in getting an LSA into any engine bay. Plus if you are going to do a bit of track work it will get hot and could cause problems......
You can get a single throttle body put on an LS3 and make it look like a carby equipped engine, and you can get 450 rear wheel HP easily with just a small cam change. It will start every time and behave like an everyday driver....... Just my opinion. |
When I bought mine, I got the best deal from CAPA in SA.
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Before you go and spend big $, I'd check with your engineer for emissions compliance and see what he suggests too. Different states have different requirements, and I've seen more than one or two that people have dropped a stack of cash on and can't pass emissions.
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Treeve,
Surely any LS engine will pass current requirements in every state? Ben |
No.
Regardless of how new it is, you still need to pass an IM240 in NSW. Just ask our mate Phil Mizzi how long that took him with his LS motor. There's a bit more to it that 'I've got an LS so I'll pass'. Treeve |
Shouldn't really be too much of an issue should it ?
Only a few weeks ago, we had a customer in N.S.W. pass his 6 litre used GM engine with flying colours...so I can't imagine the engine that Auswallaby would be considering ( New/Newer..VE/VF 6.2 litre ?) would be a problem. Maybe Phil was working under old rules...don't know....can't say why he had any problems. Anyone know for sure what the problem was ? Cheers, Warren |
It's all in the cats......
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Yep cats - I read that in a few places when I was researching my setup. Stick with the ceramic factory cats from a VZ, VE or even late model Falcon. The metal substrate ones, particularly with less than 400 cpi, while they flow and sound better don't do the same job for the environment. Hence why many aren't ADR approved.
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i have a power steering pump off my L98 thats not going to be used but if anyone is using power steering on there cobra and is needing one you can have it for the price of postage . come off a low k engine and im sick of looking at it on the shelf.
cheers deano |
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Lets also not forget tune. tune a brand new motor with a wideband and I'm certain your emissions will be worse than tuning with a narrow band O2 sensor.
There's a reason manufacturers use narrow band sensors, and it's all about emissions, not about power. I've got stacks of IM240 test results from lots of different motors, and it comes down to: 1. having it tuned for 14.7:1 running in all load scenarious - not lean, not rich, and not a powah tune. 2. having good quality cats sized to the motor, and 3. having a motor in good condition. Treeve |
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Cats, dependent on what standard they were designed to meet, will only be efficient for their design life. If they have done a heap of kms then chances are they wont filter out what they are suppose to. Basically what I found out was the higher the design requirement the better the filter they were because they were designed to last longer. Other area that people overlook is the exhaust sensor. If the sensor is old it will not be as reactive and therefore adjustments in engine management wont happen as quick. If you want to pass emissions with flying colors new cats (euro 6 are good) new sensors and get a fuel that is close to the ADR test fuel. |
A couple of other points to keep in mind..
Make sure your cats are placed not too far away from the heads to ensure they light off properly. Also the MAF sensor needs to be around 400mm from memory away from the throttle body so the computer has a little time to adjust air/fuel ratios properly. One last trick is to have a new carbon canister and don't hook it up until test day so that it's not soaked with fuel vapours.. Cheers |
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You can tune for any A/F ratio, stoich of 14.7:1, max power at 12.8-13.2:1, max economy at early 15s. You cannot do that with a narrow band. Most cars these days have wide band O2 sensors ex factory. The ECM needs to know TRUE A/F ratio all the time. A narrow band cannot do that. |
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