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T56
Well I finally built up enough courage to take to my gearbox with the hacksaw, angle grinder, mill & welder today, I must say after alot of aprehension (sic) I took alot of time before cutting the selector rod (too scared)
But after getting started I found it wasnt as difficult as i thought and all appears to have worked out well. Know I just need to buy a shifter and test it out. |
Boxhead,
Know how you feel. I must have measured that shaft a dozen times before I cut it. Cutting and grinding the other bits went OK. But in the end it was really very straight forward. Mikes instructions were spot on. Just make sure the bottom and top of the shifter housing is ground out enough to let the idents select properly. Its also worth the time and effort to refit the reverse lockout to the new selector position. I didnt and wish I had as its easy to pick up reverse when lookng for 5th. I just need more practice. You will really like the feel of the shifter , very positive. Regards, Phil |
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Know the feeling when you start to cut that shaft and you only hope you have done the right thing. What shift did you use Phil. I reused the original linkages after much machining etc. and it seems very direct and easy to shift in static mode, so I hope its ok when up and going. Fitting the lockout soleniod was pretty easy but you need to be able to tap thread for the solenoid to fit. I bought the tap so if any of you guys want to use I can courier to you as tap was around $50 and couriers are cheap.
Leeroy |
Leeroy,
Impressed you were able to reuse GMH item. Thats $400 you saved. I used B&M 45051. I liked it because of its heavy duty look. Your colour scheme sounds great. You might like to use parking globes I picked up on weekend. They are LED cluster and when lit up are a light blue colour. Not sure if legal but would look good with your paint / trim scheme. You will have to get blue covers for your instrument globes. The red ones worked for my set up. cheers, Phil |
My reverse lock out solenoid screwed straight into the houseing where the large screw bung came out from, didnt need to retap any threads.
I havent got a shifetr yet but was looking at the 45052 as Mike used. Did the 45051 screw straight on without drilling new mounting holes? I think the 45052 needs to be shortened and redrilled. Leeroy did your shifter line up ok? Because my original shifter was offset so I couldnt see how I could reuse it. I can get a 45051 or 45052 through work for $357.00. |
My box ( ex VX SS) did not come with screw out bung:(
The B&M shifter required some filing of mounting holes but not much. Make sure the mounting bolts dont bottom out. The model mike used dosent seem to have clearance problems I experienced with housing. Our gear boxes are different externally and maybe the ratios are different also. I also cut threaded section off shifter to get it shorter then glued on custom made knob. Dont laugh at glue. Couldnt get knob off with 18" pipe wrench. Came off with heat, the glue melted made gas and knob lifted off. So did my head dont know what was in that glue. Phil |
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Seems that there is a lot of variations around with the T56 as Mikes was different to mine and he was able to screw reversing soleniod straight in also. My shift was also offset but with hacksaw, milling machine and many VB's the job got done. I allowed a large opening in body over shifter if my labotomy on shifter turns out to be useless and I will then get a shifter like Mikes and bolt on. Feels good at this stage though so we will see!!
Leeroy |
Leeroy,
You did good. Maybe I should swap from Coopers to VB for my inspration. Phil |
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MMMmmmmmmmmm !!!!
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