Club Cobra - Classic Revival Steering question

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Classic Revival Steering question

Hi All,

Question for the classic revival people out there.

Does your steering arm cross the lower suspension arm on full lock?

If so how do you limit the movement to ensure that it doesn't happen?

If not why do you think ours is?

FYI we are running a Series 3 front end (upper arms, lower arms and uprights.)

See the pics for the problem...

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...ering_arm1.jpg

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...ering_arm2.jpg

Any advice welcome.

Jamie and Michael

You need series 2 tie rod end links for the front spindles, or maybe complete series 2 spindles.
The series 3 must be way shorter (tie rod end closer to the ball joint)
http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...m/DCP_2101.JPG

I cant be sure but it looks like your steering arm is just the wrong way around (going off Gavs pic and Mikes fancy set up which is attached)

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...9steering3.jpg

Your looks to be bending back in where the rod end attaches, where as it should come straight down.

Edit - On second look I cant see how it can go on around the wrong way - so those arms must be wrong - I wouldnt have throught they changed from S2 to 3

I can't be specific but was in a pick a part wreckers on Sunday and looked at the front ends of three Jags. in the yard.

The newest style bodied car had completely different front suspension bits, and I'm guessing it was a S3 so maybe the S3 is different from S2.

Even on the GF the tie rod is held quite a distance behind such that it doesn't bind as you are explaining. I too would suggest wrong part!

Cheers

The problem appears quite evident in Gav's pic.

I have marked the aproximate corresponding points on the Series 3 upright and as you can see the Series 2 setup has about an inch of additional arm extension from the hub over the Series 3. FYI the steering arm is quite a different shape in the series 3, much shorter and not as straight.

Thanks again

Jamie and Michael

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...eries2_hub.jpg

I ran into much the same problem as you. My rack ends hit on the lower control arm at full droop before I reached full steering lock. The other thing to be mindful of is at full droop the ball joint on the end of the rack is pushed past its max angle and the steering arm is starting to bend. This may vary depending on the length of the shocks you use but I have the standard AVOs that Ian supplied.

Don't use my setup as an example of a stock setup as I've changed my steering to heim joints and mounted them on top of the steering arms. This was to improve the bump steer and to give more clearance for wider front rims. I can probably squeese a 17x9" rim on the front now. The Arms still They still hit now but not as bad. It also cured the max angle on the ball joint problem.

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...9steering3.jpg

I looked at a couple of solutions. One was to machine up a couple of spacers for inside the rack to limit the total travel (I may still do this). The other option is to build some tubular lower control arms that dont bow out as much as the Jag ones. I like this idea as I would like to improve the turning circle for parking and general maneuvering.

Cheers

What are you using to limit the downward travel of the suspension? You should have some kind of stop!

There's a stop built into the coil over shock.

Cheers