Importing Kits - Page 2

mr bruce · #1 (**permalink**) 08-30-2007, 05:29 AM

can you mates elaborate on this torsional/ beaming test. I have an inquiry for a cheetah http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...95964314&idx=2 and would like to know what the requirements are, thanks

*Cobber* · #2 (**permalink**) 08-30-2007, 04:41 PM

What a mine field, just goes to show the level of interpretation of the registration rules from state to state let alone engineer to engineer.

With interpretation like this it is almost down to suburb by suburb what will go through and what won't.

DUMB.

Plums · #3 (**permalink**) 08-30-2007, 05:04 PM

You'll be right though Cobber...... with your contacts you'll get through no worries!!!

Cameron Parsons · #4 (**permalink**) 08-30-2007, 05:25 PM

Not quite a hi-jack, but more of a slide.

So, given the choice and making the huge assumption that you could extract torsion and beaming data, and other crucial stats from the US manufacturer that an Australia authority would approve... (Yes, they are big assumptions).

What would be the most desirable kit/roller import?

Personally, I would be tied for Kirkham or Shelby (in Al of course!)

Cameron

Rebel1 · #5 (**permalink**) 08-30-2007, 05:36 PM

I agree Cameron.

Kirkham of course.

The main problem with purchasing a Shelby is that we (in Australia) can't register with the type of engines that reflect the original Cobra so having the famed Shelby name would be less of an issue..

If we were able to register carby 302/351 Windsors or a 427/428 then Shelby would be a choice owing to heritage.

Just my two bob's worth.

Cameron Parsons · #6 (**permalink**) 08-30-2007, 05:49 PM

Your two bob is worth 20 cents to me Les

Cameron

NASSTY · #7 (**permalink**) 08-30-2007, 11:30 PM

From memory, I have a copy of the torsion and beam test at home somewhere, the engineer I'm using clamped down a bare chassis to a jig. Then bars were placed perpendicular to the chassis, weight was applied to the corners and the deflection measured. As he has already done this to a RCM chassis there is no need to test mine again. I thought, from memory again, that the test he was using was an ADR approved test.

Rob. Smith · #8 (**permalink**) 08-31-2007, 03:31 AM

What about Superformance ?
Smithy

400TT · #9 (**permalink**) 08-31-2007, 03:54 AM

You know you can get Cobras on the road cheaply if you have the time, skills and dedication. Our last Harrison Cobra cost just over $30k registered.

Get the body gelcoated in the colour you like. I reckon black works best. Just clean it up, polish it, throw some rondells etc on it and it will look fine. Plus you are giving the body time to settle, fibreglass takes a long time to settle.

Hit every swap meet you can for parts, you will save a lot of money by doing this. But you need to know what you are looking for and what new prices are.

Use donor cars, either front cuts or full wrecks. We used Toyota crown and were able to get a lot of parts from it, plus lots of parts to sell, some for fairly good money e.g. power steering pump, air con compressor etc.

Initially fit a cheap set of alloy wheels & tyres.

Ask around and keep an eye out for 2nd hand parts from other Cobra owners.

An alumium plated interior can look quite sexy as it gives the Cobra that race look and is cheap to do.

Get the Cobra on the road as cheap as you can. $30k area is stil doable. Once it's on the road you can tidy it up, add some nice accessories etc.

Where there is a will, there is a way. Something to think about.

400TT · #10 (**permalink**) 08-31-2007, 03:56 AM

Smithy, SuperFormance are a premium Cobra. We are looking at the budget models.

Scott, you know you can get Cobras on the road cheaply if you have the time, skills and dedication. Our last Harrison Cobra cost just over $30k registered.

Either buy body/chassis new and get the body gelcoated in the colour you like. I reckon black works best. Just clean it up, polish it, throw some rondells etc on it and it will look fine. Plus you are giving the body time to settle, fibreglass takes a long time to settle.

Or buy a part completed project. These do have their perils, but you can save a lot of money going this way. If you find a part completed kit, it would pay to run the details past some fellow club members to see what they think.

Hit every swap meet you can for parts, you will save a lot of money by doing this. But you need to know what you are looking for and what new prices are.

Use donor cars, either front cuts or full wrecks. We used Toyota crown and were able to get a lot of parts from it, plus lots of parts to sell, some for fairly good money e.g. power steering pump, air con compressor etc.

Initially fit a cheap set of alloy wheels & tyres.

Ask around and keep an eye out for 2nd hand parts from other Cobra owners.

An alumium plated interior can look quite sexy and is cheap to do.

Get the Cobra on the road as cheap as you can. $30k area is stil doable. Once it's on the road you can tidy it up, add some nice accessories etc.

Where there is a will, there is a way. Something to think about. So don't give up yet.