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CC Advertisers
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11-08-2007, 02:49 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Perth, WA,
WA
Cobra Make, Engine: Classic Revival, LS1
Posts: 23
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Not Ranked
Fuel Line Fixings
Hi,
Can anyone offer advice on fixing the fuel lines to the underside of the body in the transmission tunnel ? I had planned to use Nutserts (6mm with P clips) which seem to be widely used by many, and are so handy when working solo, but I assume the end of the nutsert and screw will be protruding into the cockpit side of the tunnel. Is this not a problem when covered with carpet?
Am sure someone has come across this before.
Cheers
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11-08-2007, 04:16 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Sunbury,
VIC
Cobra Make, Engine: Rat Rod Racer, LS1 & T56
Posts: 5,391
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Not Ranked
Unfortunately this is just one of those jobs where you have to get your wife to crawl under the car with a screw driver. 
Cheers
__________________
Mike Murphy
Melbourne Australia
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11-08-2007, 04:57 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Perth, WA,
WA
Cobra Make, Engine: Classic Revival, LS1
Posts: 23
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Not Ranked
Thanks Mike,
Thought that may be the answer, I will have to pick the right moment and ask my wife who is six months pregnant to slide under the car, I will even offer to jack the car up higher to give her some room to move.
A good weekend job.
Cheers
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11-08-2007, 05:49 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Sunbury,
VIC
Cobra Make, Engine: Rat Rod Racer, LS1 & T56
Posts: 5,391
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Not Ranked
I made a few billet aluminium clamps to hold my fuel lines in place. I used nutserts into the tunnel but I installed them from the underside so they fit flush under the carpet. The billet clamps have a recess in the back to slip over the nutsert. Making them this way was just too much work so I did the rest with rubber lined P clips.
Attaching them before droping the body on was certainly easier. My wife didn't complain to much as I had the body on it's side while we worked.
Use countersunk head cap screws and countersink all the holes from the cabin side. That way they will be flush under the carpet.
Cheers
__________________
Mike Murphy
Melbourne Australia
Last edited by Aussie Mike; 11-08-2007 at 05:51 AM..
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11-08-2007, 03:57 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Perth, WA,
WA
Cobra Make, Engine: Classic Revival, LS1
Posts: 23
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Not Ranked
Thanks Mike, the countersunk screws should do the trick.
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11-08-2007, 04:39 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 272
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Not Ranked
Use these Hydraulic pipe clamps with m6 nutserts from the other side.
http://www.stauff.com/index.php?id=37&L=1
Most Hydraulic supplies will have them about $5 ea. |
11-08-2007, 05:16 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Alice Springs, central Australia,
NT
Cobra Make, Engine: Classic revival kit (CR3181), gen III engine, T56 6 speed box, AU XR8 lsd diff
Posts: 5,699
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Not Ranked
I have fitted mine using the P clamps, I used button head allen key bolts with locnuts on the underside.
The button heads are very small in the cabin so I dont think they will be seen through the carpet.
__________________
Cruising in 5th
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Never be afraid to do something new, Remember, Amateurs built the Ark: Professionals built the Titanic.
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11-08-2007, 10:14 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Melbourne,
VIC
Cobra Make, Engine: Harrison, 6.0L Chev
Posts: 2,513
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Not Ranked
It seems the CR kits have fibreglass tunnels...? I'm just tek-screwing my lines into the tunnel chassis rails using P-clips.
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11-09-2007, 12:48 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Gold Coast,
AUS
Cobra Make, Engine: Wish I had my own PACE 427
Posts: 2,145
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Not Ranked
Quote:
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Originally Posted by sambo
It seems the CR kits have fibreglass tunnels...? I'm just tek-screwing my lines into the tunnel chassis rails using P-clips.
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Yes, that's how you do it on a Harrison or DRB. Screws & P-Clips.
A lot of removable body Cobra's have fibreglass tunnels, well basically the whole cockpit tub is fibreglass. Robnell's are an example of a removable body and a metal lined tunnel. |
11-09-2007, 04:46 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Newcastle, Warners Bay,
NSW
Cobra Make, Engine: RMC . 393 Dart alloy block Stroked 351 alloy heads ..all the goodies plus a pre oiler. al
Posts: 1,495
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Not Ranked
I'm not really happy with pipework attached to fibreglass bodywork. Also I noticed aluminium brackets holding aluminium ? pipework. Whatever, metal to metal is not good. I've used rubber lined P-clamps for fuel lines and power cables plus plastic clamps for the brakelines all attached to the chassis. All are drilled and tapped. NO self tappers or tec screws. (these tend to be "once only" use and if they need to be removed there can be a problem replacing them)
Fussy bastard ,Smithy
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