|
universal wiring kits
just like to know if pre made wiring kits are a way to go, instead off paying someone big dollars to make one. I'm looking a the E-Z wiring kits, are they any good.
Anyone used these kits ? |
depends what u can do yrself
all these pre made looms are just fusebox and wires i did phills cobra the other day and that was with a pre made loom i still had to add 10 relays and afew extra fuses so all the pre made looms mean u dont have to make the fusebox section and none of these premadelooms are made to suit an efi engine i always modify these kits to suit an efi application one bit of warning make sur eu know how to solder its amazing how many cars i fix and the solder joins are horrendous solder joins twice as thick as the wires themselves |
Troyboy welcome to the mad house.
I used the EZ wiring kit in my car but used the services of a sparky so I had someone who knew what they were doing, and my build time was limited - the arcs and sparks is a field I'd like to understand a good deal more about in the future. Anyway as sideshow says, a heap of relays are needed plus you need the correct diagrams to link into the ecu and whatever else your running. The cabling is labelled and coloured so tracing would be easy down the track with a good build diagram. I think my sparky did have to remodel wiring to suit our key positions eg accessories and other ancillaries on at the right key rotation locations.. Seems the US set up might be a tad different. At least that what I think was happening. I'm sure I have a few pics in my gallery of the wiring. If you have the time and knowledge go for it!! Cheers |
Troyboy,
I used the E-Z wiring kit same as Slowy and had an Auto Electrican do the work. Theres a pic in my gallery showing some of the wiring. I still cant believe there are so many wires for a car without windows, air cond, radio,central lock and electric seats. Regards. |
TroyBoy,
I just had my Daytona wired from scratch in Victoria. The sparky/engineer is up to his 20th Cobra/Daytona. If you want his details give me a PM and I will send them on. STIFFY |
I bought a Painless universal harness and while everything is labelled very well, there are lots of things you don't need and some that you do need (like reversing lights) are missing. It is quite complex but now I understand a lot more than I did before. You have buy lots of relays, as Sideshow says, and connectors as the ones supplied are pretty average. In hindsight I would probably mkae my own if there was a good template. Geof Hemphill has a very helpfull pair of wiring diagrams on his gallery. Really with that and using the right wires and connectors would get you there.
The "Painless" Harness is not so painless and at least twice I have been ready to rip it out and throw it away. Hours spent with a test light and battery charger to find out things for my self. Still.... almost there! Merv |
Unlike Merv, I found the painless harness pretty painless. All wires are labeled every 300mm or so.
The column switches took some thinking but that wasn't too bad once I got a sigma wiring diagram. I got it all working without relays initially then just added the relays for the high draw stuff to take the load off the switches. (cooling fan, headlights, fuel pumps etc.) Took only a weekend to run the harness and get it to work without the relays.....was just a matter of then hiding the harness out of sight and running circuits for the relays. |
Rebel 1,
I am currently helping a friend with his wiring and we were wondering where we could get a Sigma column wiring diagram, with out buying a manual. Would you be able to help us out with a copy of yours? Thank's, Harry. |
Sure can Harry..send me an email to:
rebel3@tpg dot com dot au and I'll send you back pages from the manual. Cheers |
Good that someone found the Painless harness so effective. I probably will say the same when the glow of completion hits me. Warwick said he also found it more complex than needed and wires that needed to be added. Anyway, I think I may have the Sigma column mount so I would like a copy of that as well if possible just to check if all my work with the test lite was correct. Any chance of a PM on that?
Many thanks Merv |
they all do the same purpose
its basically a fusebox with wires and u do the rest they originally were for carbied cars and still really are they are not really made for efi cars thats y i modify these fuseboxes on customers cars to suit the 7 to 10 relays needed for todays cars ill be starting my own body loom for a cobras and kit cars soon will be more expensive than painless and others but will have relays for everything even the efi stuff if i had the money i would make my own design fuseboxes and stuff and would **** on anyhting out there but i dont have a spare million heheheh but for now ill stick to what i can afford to make and what people are willing to pay painless is just to expensive these days or it might be rocket industries just rip people off too much unless u know someone there u pay double the price i went there once and didnt buy anything and will prob never go back these days i have enough contacts elsewhere in the world to buy stuff |
Yes I agree re Rocket. When pricing Borgeson u-joints it was minimum 50% markup and that's against the US price after conversion and freight. Most other things I looked at were similar. And the two blokes I spoke to barely had the time of day to spare.
Back to the wiring... I don't see why pre-made kits are such a hassle. For $350 or so you get colour coded wiring, nicely labelled, with a decent fusebox and schematics. The trick to me is getting what I will call "automatic" accessories such as fuel pumps, thermo fans, injectors and 02 sensors running correctly with the factory ECU. That's the mystery to me. |
Painless is more expensive than EZ wire but Painless has very good documentation. The step by step approach makes for a good manual and info is correct. EZ did not have as good of a manual and found conflicts in wire numbers and color specified at least on the kit part # I checked out. The overall component quality of each was good.
If you are comfortable with electrical installs EZ is less $$ and all the circuits are there but maybe a different color/number. Painless is easier for the guy who needs good documentation with point to point charts IMHO anyway. I found the 20 circuit kits a better buy than the 12 circuit kits as far as bang for the buck. The larger kit allows you to add the relays and extras that make things a cleaner install. It is nice to have a spare fused circuit and easy to tuck way for latter if not used today. |
For what it worth for the Aussie guys using the Mitsubishi column. I scoured the wreckers to find the plug that matches the mitsubishi column plug. I then spliced this onto the painless harness.
As said I used the Painless harness but ran another power circuit (heavy wire) to the front of the car from the fusable link. This wire then provided the full power for the lights, radiator fan and horn via relays and fuses. My battery is in the boot so a circuit for the fuel pump relays are right where you want it. The painless wires then just become a trigger wire for the relays. It does mean you have relays at each end of the car as well as under the dash but frankly the relays at the front and rear are much easier to get to then climbing under the dash. |
Les, did you run a dedicated ground circuit? I'm planning to do this, along with a few disconnects in various places to earth the relays and other accessories as required.
|
Quote:
Cheers |
Sounds like the best of both worlds Les - might steal that idea from you!
|
Sambo I think where I differ from most is that my battery cable exits the tunnel to a heavy duty junction box behind the dash. From this junction box a lighter (as supplied by holden) starter wire goes to the starter.
The alternator connects directly to the battery cable in the junction box. All other power comes from this same junction box via a fusable link then to the fuse box. as detailed here: http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...esensing.shtml I sorta followed all the advice from this site. Go to the electrical tech link. http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical-tech.shtml |
Mate, we've been studying the same website! Do you think the remote solenoid is overkill?
|
Quote:
|
| All times are GMT -7. The time now is 01:31 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0
The representations expressed are the representations and opinions of the clubcobra.com forum members and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and viewpoints of the site owners, moderators, Shelby American, any other replica manufacturer, Ford Motor Company. This website has been planned and developed by clubcobra.com and its forum members and should not be construed as being endorsed by Ford Motor Company, or Shelby American or any other manufacturer unless expressly noted by that entity. "Cobra" and the Cobra logo are registered trademarks for Ford Motor Co., Inc. clubcobra.com forum members agree not to post any copyrighted material unless the copyrighted material is owned by you. Although we do not and cannot review the messages posted and are not responsible for the content of any of these messages, we reserve the right to delete any message for any reason whatsoever. You remain solely responsible for the content of your messages, and you agree to indemnify and hold us harmless with respect to any claim based upon transmission of your message(s). Thank you for visiting clubcobra.com. For full policy documentation refer to the following link: