go the gen4

look up on the net

there are plenty of companie sin usa make there own custom engines roughly based

holden of ford engines

u can spend abit on yr enigne for little or average gains

or spend big on another engine and get big gains

maybe think of how much power u want and find the easiest way to get it

HI Stephen,
Yep, I believe you are right the AFR's do flow better than the GT40P's but the New AFR's cost a lot more than the 2nd hand GT40P's and the GT40P's should be a lot cheaper.

As far as just changing the heads goes, I'm not sure it would be that great (for the $). The intake manifold (upper and lower) would probably need to be match ported and it would not be worth it as I'm pretty sure that manifold (NC) isnt the best. Not much point having hi flow heads if the manifold wont supply the extra air. If you decide to change the cam shaft later you may need to change the springs on the valves (further expense).

Most experienced engine builders seem to suggest that if you a planning an engine build you should:
1. Decide how much power you want.
2. Check that the block and crank can survive that power.
3. Decide which Cam shaft you will need to generate that power.
4. Build the engine to suit the camshaft.:cool:

The camshaft determines how much air and fuel goes in and out. That tells you how much head flow you need, what size throttle body, what size injectors etc. By following this method you will hopefully only have to build the engine once!

As was mentioned by someone else a fitted, working supercharger (with all other necessary mods for the supercharger to work properly) would not give any change from $10,000.:eek:

Stroking the engine will give quite a bit more power (than standard motor) but is also quite expensive since you will still need cam, heads, intake, throttle body, injectors etc.

If you dont want to get a bigger engine. Another option might be to purchase a ford with a motor that is already done up. Swap the motors over and sell the car again. If your lucky you might be able to do it for free. That way somebody else went through all the hassle for you.

Hope some of these ideas are helpful. At the end of the day its your car and your money so as long as you enjoy the mods its all good. Just do lots of research first.

Just a thought out of left field.

If you just want to have fun. The cheapest bang for buck is nitrous. A dry kit woulod cost you about $1,000 and you could install it yourself in a day. You would have to check your particular engine but usually no computer modifications are required as the computer senses the vacume change and gets the standard injectors to pump in the extra fuel.

The only drawback is.........its illegal on the street:CRY:

Just for reference, I'm still using the factory GT40P heads supplied by Tickford which did had larger valves and some very slight porting on the intake ports. But they have since been tidied up with a full port job. Still good for at least 400hp at the fly. %/

On the road
 

Steve,


When is your car going to be on the road again? (I know how frustrating it can be to off the road from a fault of your own :mad::mad:) I dropped in to Marty's on the weekend and was expecting to see your car :rolleyes: but was informed it was in numerous places......



STIFFY

Stiff

Rather than Hi-Jack here I'll start a new thread at home tonight, that way I can attach before and after chassis picks.

But fair to say my car parts are a long way apart.

Ciao

Theirs some nice ford EFI performance stuff on ebay at the moment for anyone interested in chasing horsepower,
the seller comes highly recommended........

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI....m=170304488467

Engine Work or Super Charger Options
 

I have the same engine that you do, but since my car is track use only I am going with AFR 205's with as big a cam that will work. But currently it has Victor Junior steel heads with 2.02 intake and 1.60 exhaust valves and a E303 cam. It makes 340hp at the wheels with a very flat torque curve. You will be very happy with it.....:o;)



engine 6.0