|
sigma/colt column wiring diagram
Fellas
Can anyone help me with a wiring diagram for Mitsu colt/sigma ignition and combination switches? Thanks |
I've put a Ford Laser column in mine and the advice from a well known sparky is that the wires use standard Ford colour coding, so I should be able to cross check with most Fords from the same era or a workshop manual, etc. Perhaps the same is true for Mitsubishi?
Failing that, perhaps time to get out the test light. :) |
Grab a multi meter or test light, I had two colt assemblies and the wire colours were different. It's not that hard to work out.
|
yes like cobber said a multimete ris yr best friend
yr best of buyign a book to learn how it all works blinkers are piss easy but headlights are fiddly not hard just u need to understand hwo they work especially if u want the pass high beam feature the colt and sigma and ford laser all have their own minute differences but a mutlimeter on buzz will help alot after yr finished the body wiring u will understand why painless wiring looms are not so painless heheheheheh |
I have a Mitsubishi wiring manual in PDF, but perhaps check with 07Cob (Geof) as he has some excellent build pics including the wiring of the indicator and switches set up for the Harrison. I made up a test light and sat there with a battery charger and double checked and then labelled everything!
Merv Send me a PM if you want the Mitsubishi manual (you will need to wade through it) |
Thanks fellas
Merv I'll Pm you my email address, and also try Geof. Also these bloody uninsulated terminals on the VDO instruments are giving me grief, I bought a resonable quality crimper but buggered if I can get a good result. Any tips?? Cheers |
I used Classic Instruments gauges and they have brass lock screws on each of the points at the back. I got the best crimper I could find and the best fittings I could buy and still used solder at all key points. I tried not to rely only on crimping. This was the back of the dash before it got organised! The tape is for the labels I had at the time.
http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...ash_wires1.jpg Merv |
u need a pair of these crimpers
http://www.wattmaster.com.au/toolsan...ProductID=1487 at 2500 bucks i had to wait afew months to buy them hehehe as i got rsi from crimping all day they do the perfect job on the uninsulated crimp terminals another tip with those terminals is there are 2 types brass and silver coloured which means they are tinned i try not to use the brass ones as they dont have a strong enough bite sometimes when they mate with the other terminal are u sure u got the right dies on the crimper jaycar have good ones blue handle type for around 60 bucks they do a good job so not sure what prob yr having if u can post a pic of the crimpers ill tell u if they are right |
I bought the JayCar one and it is great. Also a good quality wire stripper and a decent fast soldering set up. Lots of shrink wrap and some really good side cutters. Fun! (right Les?).
Merv |
Quote:
I got really good at neat soldering after about 200 terminals. :D |
hey byron one tip which might help is when using thin wires
strip twice the amount of insulation off on the end to be terminated then fold the exposed wire in half then crimp it with thin wires the crimp terminal wont clamp onto the wire very strong and hal;f the time they pull out so anything under 3mm2 wire i double them up and i harldy solder unless its very thick wire and the crimp doesnt squash too good |
Sideshow, as a professional in the game your last comment suprises me.
My sparky soldered every last fitting and I'd expect no less. But then a lot of stuff he was wiring was competition based or at least HiPo, so failure of a simple crimp wasn't an option. Have to agree with you Rebel, I did some of the basic bits and the speed I did the solders as against my sparky paled by comparison but I did get solid joins and that was the aim of the exercise. Cheers |
it depends how u look at it
factory jap and aussie car hanresses have no solder joints in them some like a nice crimp some like a nice solder problem with solder is it weakens the joint and makes it brittle right at the end of the terminal so either way there are pros and cons if u have ever look at proper race cars not basic competition like u prob mention not ones u see on weekends but the big daddys they use deutsch connectors especially if there is no budget limit now u look what they use they dont solder the wire its just a very good strong style of crimp i did a car with deutsch connectors once and took me 3 times as long now if u crimp a wire and pull on it and it doesnt break then its fine i garantee if u solder it the chances of breakage rise alittle if the solder is overdone or the wire becomes brittle ive never had probs with no soldering of smaller wire size crimps only have had 3 or 4 pull out in past 5 years thats y i now have my 1.2 ton crimpers plus ive have seen jobs where solder actually stuffed the ecu plug and fittings and this was on a cobra aswell so for ecu plugs i have 6 special crimpers for very very tiny wire so i recon if u spend the money on correct crimpers then it should all be fine |
Interesting the soldering issue.....I was looking for info on the net and a US site written by an aircraft auto elect specifically noted no solder if crimped properly.
He noted the likes of Boeing, Cessna etc not having used solder on their aircraft for 20 years. I spose these guys do use a flash commercial crimper but he personally still only crimps. On the Jaycar tool, they list only one for uninsulated terminals and its the same as the Kingchrome one I bought (for 3 times the price of theirs) the die wants to just flatten the lugs not neatly curl them and crimp. I'd use insulated terminals, only VDO supplied nice plug connectors and the female terminals for each gauge so I'd like to persevere with these. Greg |
sounds like u have the wrong dies
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView...T&SUBCATID=674 goto this website its jaycar one and has the correct dies u can just see the slight curves on the dies where the terminal goes some dies are purely flat so are for another type of uninsulated terminals u should have a small shape of an "m" which curves the tabs over in the crimp |
Crimping is accepted as a superior connection to soldering for the majority of uses.
Stephen, I used to use the correct Utilux crimpers but still found they didn't always curl the connector tangs over correctly. I just gave the tang gentle squeeze with pliers to preform them before applying the crimper. Never had a joint related electrical problem with any of my rally cars. Cheers |
Thanks sideshow
I've got onto a local auto elec who's going to oversee my wiring and he's lending me his Carroll pro crimper so that should solve my problem |
sigma wiring diagram
Quote:
|
cool just make sur ethe thin wires are crimped tight
if we ever get time we will design some cobra body harnesses will be dearer than others out there but i recon ill do a much better job designed for the new enignes and use a neat all in one fusebox and relay block assembly hope to try make everything more compact as others ive seem looks like a dogs breakfast under the dash and take up half the bloody footwell but i guess its like evrything else in life u get what u pay for |
Thanks Rob
|
| All times are GMT -7. The time now is 04:04 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0
The representations expressed are the representations and opinions of the clubcobra.com forum members and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and viewpoints of the site owners, moderators, Shelby American, any other replica manufacturer, Ford Motor Company. This website has been planned and developed by clubcobra.com and its forum members and should not be construed as being endorsed by Ford Motor Company, or Shelby American or any other manufacturer unless expressly noted by that entity. "Cobra" and the Cobra logo are registered trademarks for Ford Motor Co., Inc. clubcobra.com forum members agree not to post any copyrighted material unless the copyrighted material is owned by you. Although we do not and cannot review the messages posted and are not responsible for the content of any of these messages, we reserve the right to delete any message for any reason whatsoever. You remain solely responsible for the content of your messages, and you agree to indemnify and hold us harmless with respect to any claim based upon transmission of your message(s). Thank you for visiting clubcobra.com. For full policy documentation refer to the following link: