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Drive shaft and diff flange
Does anyone have a source for the drive shaft and the flange that mounts it to the diff? I broke the rear u-joint yesterday and need to replace both due to the carnage. Thanks.
Dave |
Common problem with these cars and high HP and torque, check out this thread. http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/show...ighlight=group
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Dave |
You need a E36 BMW on one end and the other end will be dictated by your transmssion.
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Sorry mis-understood the post. Try them and let us know for future refrence for others.
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Dave |
If you know the transmission output shaft specs perhaps Reg can provide a replacement out of Florida with all the info.
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Dave |
Call both the driveshaft shop and Reg Monday see which is the better option.
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Call these guys. East County Drive Shaft (619) 447-3336. They are in San Diego. I had them shorten my driveshaft and make it stronger. They installed beefed up u-joints. I want to say the back one was from a toyota (metric) same size as the bimmer but stronger. Front was replaced with something stronger.
Cost was ~$200, took a day. His shop is down the street from an old cobra builder/mechanic so he has done many in the past. |
Reg and Craig at BDR were more than helpful this morning and hopefully in a few days I'll be back together!
Dave |
Stop doing 5,000 RPM clutch dumps and your problems should go away. :LOL:
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Actually in the Cobra I've been very careful as I'm fearful of the E36 rearend grenading. The u-joint failed at about 25 mph and about 3k rpm. The u-joint lacked grease thus the failure. I did put the bracket on you suggested from Autowerx, it's a nice piece. On a related note I spoke to the Drive Shaft Shop here in NC and they do offer a upgraded yoke for the E36 diff with a larger u-joint for the BMW. However it's a bit pricey for a new yoke and driveshaft at $650..... Dave |
I know this is an older post, but noticed you said it was caused by lack of grease.
A u-joint can also fail from not having any driveline angle. It will flatspot the rollers in the joint, and cause failure. Just something to check to make sure!! Will |
I wonder what the typical BDR guy is running for rear tires? I cannot get enough traction with street tires to ever worry about breaking anything. Horse power is not the issue, if you can't hook it up, it don't matter how much you got.
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Hitch,
The E36 diff is surprisingly robust. I have had mine to the drag strip and RR it regularly with a junk yard LSD i installed, that I paid $100 for. My motor makes 495 rwhp, now I don't dump the clutch at 2500 either. But so far, knock on wood I haven't had any problems with the diff, drive shaft or the half shafts. Some have had problems with the half shafts but I haven't. Did you get any damage to the drive shaft tunnel when it let go? Or did the safety loop contain it? Excaliber, The standard rear tires are Nitto Drag Radials....Mac |
Minimal damage to the fiberglass when the u-joint let go. So while it took some effort I got it all patched up and from the bottom side you can't tell it every occurred. Now I'm trying to work out the throw out bearing issues. I can get the clutch set so that it doesn't ride on the pressure plate or I can get it to shift right. Dang it... I think I'm going to go with a hydraulic throw out now since I have the motor out....
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Hitch,
I put in a Hydraulic Throw out Bearing a few years ago an haven't had any issues. I have a Quarter Master HTB. I did have to machine the input shaft bearing retainer to fit, not a big deal 10 minutes on a lathe... you didn't say, but did you have a drive shaft safety loop installed? I'm asking because I'm contemplating using a carbon fiber drive shaft so if it does break it won't cause to much damage. But if the safety loop stood up well then I won't...Mac |
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