New Headers?

[bd-ut-cobra]

I own a backdraft number 200 something car. I want to install the header/exhaust flange kit and know where that can be purchased. But before I go to all the hassle of getting it installed I thought I'd do some research to see if the other problem I have with the headers can be resolved. And that is, where the header pipes attach to the plate that attaches to the engine, the weld/fitting isn't the best. It would appear it restricts some flow. I've got the 351 Ford Racing engine in mine. Is anyone aware of a better set of headers that will work?

[Cashburn]

Worth considering, you can purchase a new set of headers from Backdraft and then just convert your pipes to mount. It cuts the install of the flange kit in half and addresses the header issue you have highlighted.

If not listed here: www.backdraftparts.com you can call and they will set you up.

[bd-ut-cobra]

I called and spoke with Mike R. They want $450 for uncoated and $750 for ceramic coated. He sent over some pics, the fitting of the header piping to the plate that mounts to the engine seems to be done a fair amount better. Attached is a pic from Mike.

[bd-ut-cobra]

This project isn't off to a good start. There appears to be some variance between the old and new headers. The flange is approx 3/4" too high. In order for things to match up you'd have to enlarge the cut out in the fender and that's not happening. We've only tried the passenger side so far.

So my questions is this, did I just get a fluke header or has anyone seen this kind of variance with the new headers vs. old?

[Cashburn]

I believe it's because the new motor mounts are lower.

[bd-ut-cobra]

Have you got any solutions to the problem? I really don't want to attach a flange to the old headers. There is an obvoious difference in quality between new and old.

[mkassab]

The only good solution is to return them. Have a local welder make you a set. No big deal. I'd complete and mount the side pipes with flange first. Then attach the two unwelded flanges (two per side) (that will be welded to make your headers), i.e, the flange that will go on the head to the head and the flange that will go on the side pipe flange to the flange on the side pipe. I'd assume with a 351 would would use 1 3/4" pipe. The loose pipe would have various bends that the welder would then cut and fit as needed. As the pieces are fitted to the flanges, the welder would tac it all together, then remove the bolts used to hold in place, remove the tac'ed headers, complete the welds, have ceramic coated and bolt back in place. The picture you have can be used by the welder as a template. I attached a few picts of my recently built headers and side pipes on my build site.
My build link http://www.uniquecobra.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=68 then click the "exterior" thread for the headers.
In addition, under my "Links" thread you see where you can buy your header parts, i.e, flanges, pipe, etc.
good luck, Mark

[Cashburn]

Originally Posted by bd-ut-cobra

Have you got any solutions to the problem? I really don't want to attach a flange to the old headers. There is an obvoious difference in quality between new and old.

Can you drop the motor some? The solid aluminum mounts we sell are a little shorter and will also firm the front end up a lot.

[bd-ut-cobra]

I'll need to look. The car is currently at the shop. Can engine mounts be swapped out one by one and avoid pulling the engine out? That's not something I'm familiar with.

Do you by chance have the ability to compare the height of old vs. your new version of mounts?

[Cashburn]

Originally Posted by bd-ut-cobra

I'll need to look. The car is currently at the shop. Can engine mounts be swapped out one by one and avoid pulling the engine out? That's not something I'm familiar with.

Do you by chance have the ability to compare the height of old vs. your new version of mounts?

You can measure your current mount and go from there. The engine can stay in to swap.

[bd-ut-cobra]

We made an attempt on the driver's side and that lined up like it is supposed to. My guy is going to take another look at the passenger side but maybe I did indeed get a fluky header. I'll post another update with those results.

[bd-ut-cobra]

The passenger side has been completed. It took a bit more work but they got it. Part of the problem, after doing some measuring the fender cut out on the passenger side was smaller than the driver side. They didn't enlarge the hole, they still made it work.

I'm excited to get out for a longer drive and see if my backfire problem is resolved.

I'm selling the old headers. They have 1700 miles on them, they are in pretty good shape. I can provide detailed pics if anyone is interested. $200 plus shipping.

[bd-ut-cobra]

I just got done doing a decent test drive and there is no backfire anymore. This project was a little bit of pain getting done but I'd highly recommend someone doing this flange header/exhaust upgrade. The project could have been a little easier if I stuck with the original headers but I don't really have any regrets doing it the way I did because the new headers are clearly a better product.

With the original headers off I can see they have one small pin hole in them but I wonder what they would be like in 3-5 years down the road. I read in another post where someone said theirs had quite a few holes/gaps developing.