water pump replacment

tamanaco · #1 (**permalink**) 03-26-2012, 04:48 AM

I've got a 2005 built 302 power Backdraft with standard rotation .625 pilot shaft pump that was chromed. the chrome plating is flaking off and on the stroker motor i just put in the car...it's leaking slightly...so, I need a new one. I found some FMS units...but .750 pilot shafts...

did some internet searching, but have not found a driver side input standard rotation, chrome or polished alum. pump. suggestions (links) guys?

madmaxx · #2 (**permalink**) 03-26-2012, 06:21 AM

Your lucky. Stay away from the ford motorsport endura shine. They will show up chipped, scratched or even damage to the coating during maching. I went through 3 before I said refund my money. If you want polished you need polished aluminium, it may get a scracth but will polish out. Edelbrock, Holley (weiland) and PRW are your bet bets. In my opion PRW has the best polished finish and are the lowest cost. PRW ahs a year warranty, Holley (weiland) is 6? months and Edelbrock are $$$$. Be warned some have threaded heater connectiions of 1/2" other 3/8" so you may need new fittings. It was a true cluster fuk with the endurashine, even my buddies edelbrock endurashine manifold has issues.

tamanaco · #3 (**permalink**) 03-26-2012, 07:58 AM

madmaxx...thks for the info!

GBowman · #4 (**permalink**) 03-26-2012, 09:00 AM

I just replaced mine with Edelbrock #8843-comes with plate to block gasket and has the plate already attached to the pump. Also has threaded plumbing included accept a plug if you need one-160 bucks cast alum which matches my intake nicely.

madmaxx · #5 (**permalink**) 03-26-2012, 09:15 AM

On the backing plate remove their bolts, and apply loctite and tighten to 14 ft-lbs, it is impossilbe to tighten the bottom ones after the pump is installed. I actually bought a cometic gasket, but the supplied will do fine just use the loctite so the bolts dont loosen through the thermal cycling. Also dont use RTV it just allows the gasket to squezze out, use a little indian head gasket shellac if you use anything. Torque to 15 ft-lbs, then retorque after a couple thermal cycles. Almost forgot on the prw they pushed the pulley boss on about .002" to far, no big deal except the pulley would not set flush and would wobble, talked about being pissed off, I just chamfered the back of the pulley hole and problem solved.

madmaxx · #6 (**permalink**) 03-26-2012, 09:17 AM

Make sure you coat the bolts that go into the water jacket with the indian head, be careful with rtv and blind holes, you can crack something if you plug the hole solid and start cranking down on the bolt. RTV is when no gasket exist, if you have gaskets you really dont need anything but to hold it in place while you install the 15? bolts LOL

tamanaco · #7 (**permalink**) 03-27-2012, 04:58 AM

ordered the Edelbrock 8843, getting it today, i hope. but it got cold again in Northern Ohio...25* am today...burrrrr

Thanks to all that replied and to this site for great info resource!

tamanaco · #8 (**permalink**) 04-09-2012, 09:45 AM

Just a note on this Edelbrock 8843 water pump. If you have a CSR billet T-stat housing with the countersunk allen screws you'll need to remove this water pump to remove t-stat. WTF! just a heads up to any one else considering this pump that have a billet t-stat housing! also, FMS has a driver side input clockwise rotation alum. pump for $50 bucks vs edelbrock $180 pump...

OK...as I was just about ready to start pulling pump bolts...I did figure out a way to get the housing off w/o pump removal...here is the trick, take a 1/4 allen wrench, cut a 1/2 inch long piece off, install this into the allen bolt holding the t-stat housing on, then take a 1/4 inch box end on the allen wrench and it's off. what a *****! but it worked!