BDR OEM radiator/cap/pressure
 

Hello all. Just want to say that this site was a great resource when shopping for my cobra two years ago. Thank you for all who responded.

Background on what I have:

Engine: 408W, OEM rad(BDR), 16" electric fan(BDR), header tank, and 180 stat

Been running great, fan would kick in at appropriate temp, never ran over 195 degrees.

Then: noticed weeping from the cap and found the upper seal had been compromised. No big deal. Old cap had no lbs printed on it. Called engine builder, they use 16 or 18 based on my engine. Replaced it with an 18, went for test drive and came back and it was spitting fluid and from overflow and a little from upper rad hose at the water pump. Placed a 16 on it and did the same but not out the rad hose?

My question is: is the engine builder correct? Do I have other issues? What psi should the cooling system be running at? Also, how good is the OEM rad from BDR and should I upgrade? If so, any recommendations on a better radiator?

Thanks for your help.

Want to get back on the road.

The higher #s caps allow the temps to run higher without turning to steam (think of a pressure cooker)
The cap seal is two stage. lower seal at spring is the 16 or 18 psi setting and will unseat when the pressure hits that number and send the fluid out the overflow line and a coolant blood trail in front of the L/front tire. From your post you are seeing fluid at the cap itself. The upper seal only comes into play once the lower opens up.

So you really have two issues:

The lower seal is either leaking or you have a Overflow tank problem. Take a look at the seating area, Or you are really over heating.
The Upper seal should not be leaking regardless of what cap #s you choose and if you are overheating or not. Same deal take a close look at the overflow tank flanges.

That's a brass tank and there could be some crud on the lower seal seating area. Cleaning it up with blue Scotchbrite and a bit of Naval Jelly (15% phosphoric acid) will help the sealing.

Get down to fender level and eyeball the tank top neck flange for bent areas. If you have a large enough socket that will mate up to the top sealing area. Put it on top the neck flange shine a flashlight down the center look that he periphery of the socket wall / flange for light leaks at the neck indicating a low spot.

I take it your fans are functioning ok, then even in manual fans ON you've never had overheating issues?

Are you still seeing the same water temp you're used to on the gauge?

Another telltale of overheating: The the oil press will dip slightly as the viscosity lowers. (Not always especially if you have an oil cooler.)
But if you have an oil temp gauge it will be higher than normal.

Great advice. Will try the socket method and clean up the lower seating area. The coolant temp and oil temps have remained the same so has the oil psi so I don't think it's an overheating issue but will look at that more closely.

I know the stat is working because it opens around the 180 mark, fan kicks on and the temp drops down.


The fan is functioning properly, it's pulling good air flow. The temp runs around 180-190 fans never turn on when on the highway but once I stop in traffic it turns on.

I installed a temporary recovery tank to prevent the mess.

Do you have any suggestions on a replacement radiator that is all aluminum? The one from BDR requires a little modifying from what they told me. I think the OEM is from a 3 series BMW. I don't like the plastic on that radiator, future failure potential.

Thanks for your time,

Steve

Are you filling the recovery tank full? The tank will find its level by draining excess fluid while running. This should stop shortly and the tank will be about 1/2 full. I have a 14# cap on my car and no problems at all.

You're correct on the service life of the BMW radiator. Def a weak point.
I've been looking at them as well.

They are quite a few Radiators out there.

OEM style but all alum
https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-1...l-cooler-tabs/

Fluidyne 44mm
https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-1...6-323325328m3/

And PWR makes a 55mm (PN 20-03109)
https://www.crracing.com/products/ca.../bmw_radiators
C&R Racing 20-03109: OE Fit Aluminum Radiator BMW E36 | JEGS

We put the aluminum radiator from backdraftparts.com in most of our builds now (anything exceeding 530hp etc.)

Cash,
I'd looked at that unit and its nice and the price is not bad at all.


My only stumbling point is the *


High efficiency Aluminium Radiator for Small Block and Big Block Ford engines. 30% more cooling than the factory supplied BDR radiator. Made with aluminum tanks and a larger core.

*Requires professional installation and/or fabrication of custom lower brackets or side mounts.


I work remotely now an don't have access to any of our Company's Hangers. (Tig welding equipment) so need more of a plug-n-play.

Backdraft Parts - Radiator 30% More Efficient - Cooling - Engine - Products

We can sell you a lower bracket. But you will need to do some minor fitting to get it in there. It's pretty straightforward.

Thanks Cash,

I'll probably go that route then.

Its on my to do list.

Just finished the water pump. Found 2 lbs of RTV under it. Come to find out it had a CCW timing cover w/ a CW pump. Brilliant!!
I think Darrel might have let his other brother Darrel work on this car at some point....
So I installed a new timing cover as well.

Emerg brake shoes and hardware + dust shields + cables are next.

Update on radiator replacement. Opted for the Fluidyne https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-1...6-323325328m3/ It was a tight fit, had to drill new holes and use smaller bolts to attach oem electric fan/shroud to the new rad. Not going to lie, it took me a good half a day and some precision drilling because the Fluidyne upper and lower framing was shorter than the oem radiator. Aside from the careful measuring and re-measuring everything worked out.

Next question: what intake manifolds would you recommend for the 351W? Looking at the Edelbrock but not sure if it will fit. Does anyone have any recommendations? Thanks.

Thanks for the update it helps a lot.

On the Intake , mine has a Edelbrock Super Victor #2924. about the tallest they make for that motor. Also a 1/2" phenolic spacer. Carb was a 750 4150HP and now a FiTech EFI unit. Both cleared fine using a 14" round (3" filter) air cleaner with drop base. I switched to a Edelbrock Pro Flo air cleaner last month (#10023) Had to remove the phenolic spacer. Not needed with the EFI anyways.
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...psc1bk323z.jpg
http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t...psu0zluxrc.jpg

Nice looking setup Spdbrake. I was looking at the Edelbrock performer part#7181 but again I have to remove the carb and measure to make sure it fits. I have a Demon 725 in it and do not like how it runs. How do you like the FiTech EFI? How tall is the FiTech? Besides upgrading to a higher psi fuel pump what else did you have to do? Have read that it is somewhat a self learning system. Also what type of alternator do you have? Do you have a recovery tank for your radiator?

Sorry for all the questions but your setup looks really good and I'm sure a better running machine. I really need to do some upgrading.

The 725 will bolt up to the Performer,RPM or Victor.
Summit shows the Demon 725 is 3.25" tall.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dem-4402020ve

FiTech lists the 600Hp 3-9/16" tall
http://fitechefi.com/fitech-uploads/2016/07/30001.pdf



If I were to swap the intake out I'd go for the RPM air gap. The Victor is advertised to run in the 5-9k rpm range. I'm putt-putting around mostly and hit 6k once in a blue moon. This video is pretty informative.
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i2DvnoHWagk[/ame]

The FiTech is great, I use the Fuel command center (Bottom right of the lower pic) instead of going with the external high press pump (gets hot) or in-tank pump. The FCC has internal floats and pump to boost it to 60psi out.
It runs better and better each drive. $995 for the 600hp unit, $395 for the FCC, and approx $100 in sleeving, Adel clamps, fuel lines, push-loc fittings in s/steel to match my existing lines. (comes with Black fittings, hoses, filter.)
Vintage Motorsports have been using FiTech it quite a bit now on their BDRs.
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FB8lDc_gQBs[/ame]

Alternator is a Bosch unit PN AL7522N
[ame]https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-AL7522N-New-Alternator/dp/B000BZGNSW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1476901033&sr=8-1&keywords=Bosch+AL7522N+New+Alternator[/ame]

BTW there is a $100 rebate on the 600HP system again. Took me approx 4 weeks to get the rebate back, not bad actually.

PS> No overflow catch can.

So if I use the FCC do I keep my current fuel pump? Or can I? It is only 7-8psi. Also, my other issue is hood clearance; currently my air filter just fits under the hood near the windshield area with about 1/8" wiggle room. I was trying to measure the current intake but height but unable to do so with any degree of accuracy. I suppose I need to remove carb and perform some careful measuring as I will not be able to return the Edelbrock or I would have to use a different air filter.

This looks like a great upgrade. Not sure about the fit of the Edelbrock and EFI and having everything fit. Also, if this beyond my scope of installation skills.
Thanks for the info Spdbrake, so helpful. BTW FiTech is 1hr north of me.

You keep you current low press pump and it feeds the FCC.

Snap a pic of your current intake and air filter and post. We can identify what intake you have then and work from there. Same for the filter.

I would visit (with your BDR) FiTech and ask if you can guinea pig for them.
Typically you have to leave the car a for a few days & they do the work (possibly installing the intake if you decide to change out).
In some cases the install and system can be free (rare) but in most cases it will save you a lot of coin. Another plus is they'll typ tune it on a dyno so there is a real advantage going and seeing them face to face with the Backdraft.

Will post pic tomorrow. Great advice.

Steve

Is this the manifold you are referring to? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-7581/overview/

The link does not work for me, btw. But that is the correct PN.
Manifold heights:
RPM air gap = 5.7"
Performer RPM=4.8"
Performer =4.12
Super Victor= 6.25"

Weiand Stealth = 5.06" (sort of like the RPM in design but a hell of a tilt on the the carb base 4.37"F & 5.06"R and will probably jack the rear of air cleaner another inch.)

China copies of the RPM and RPM Air gap:
Assault racing
Search Results :: Assault Racing Products
Professional Products
Small Block Ford - Intake Manifolds
Speedmaster (aka Procomp Electronics)
https://speedmaster79.com/air-fuel-d...5-8l-351-12180

Don't get me wrong the copies are fine @ 1/2 the price of Edelbrock. I've used other Speedmaster components before with no issues.

Spdbrake here are a few photos of my engine compartment and the new radiator.

Not sure if the Edelbrock 7581 will fit based of my dimensions(Rear 5 1/2" Front 4 1/2") I might go for the 7181 to make things easier.

I'm going to tackle the efi install with the help of a MOPAR friend and maybe more questions for you if you don't mind.

thanks for all your help.

Had trouble with photos.

Photos
 

Here are the photos of engine compartment and one of my water neck which I can't find the o-ring for this or figure out the maker of this neck. oh and the newly installed radiator.