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Anything is possible though given enough money. The front of the Diff wants to pop up as the tires dig in. That bolt is under heavy shear forces. That coupled with the low strength bolt you started with set it up to fail. As I recommended using a long bolt in the previous post thus removing the threaded area from the shear load will help greatly. Or you can install a brace which transfers the shear toward the head of the bolt. Like this one. https://store.vacmotorsports.com/act...-e36-p521.aspx Several companies make these. If you're serious about changing the diff and suspension I'm sure James Yale (BDR dealer near you) could handle it as long you understand it's an open checkbook, time and materials project. Getting a 1/2 frame from BDR factory S. Africa with the axles brakes etc.. hung would be the least labor intensive less "science project" approach. Plan on a year down time. Or put the car back together and trade it in for an RT4. |
Ronin Speedworks makes a complete mounting kit for the 8.8 Ford. Here is a pic of their Mazda kit which could fit a Cobra chassis with a little massage work;
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/09...G?v=1532972787 The cradle /saddle is very straight forward, relatively easy to install or even copy, if you are a fabricator or chassis shop. They used to have a website but have gone to a Facebook page now. I don't do social media of any type so they are out of reach for me. |
I realized I didn’t respond to earlier replies. Yes, the new bolt is different than the one that sheared and the bolt that came with the condor kit. The new bolt is grade 12.9 compared to 10.9 for the the sheared bolt and condor bolt. And Yes, I’m trying to find a grade 14.9 14mm 2.0 bolt with a larger shank. The guys at fastenal said that the threads should be the exact length of the thread connection on the differential. This is inline with what eschaider is saying. The smooth shaft is about quarter inch too short. And no, that’s what she said. My sheared in the thread area of the differential. I would think the weak spot is on exposed threads just before the differential?? And, yes I’m serious about looking other rear end options but I plan to drive my car as often as I can with the current setup. I’ll drive it like did before the bolt sheared and if it doesn’t break again Ill follow the “if it ain’t broke don’t fix it” until it does. Appreciate the responses. Thanks
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One thing I noticed on the ECS site as they sell the same support is this note:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-active-a...et/13-004~aaw/ Not for use with aftermarket/performance differential bushings with a flange that protrudes further than OEM. Although it's not mentioned in the actual instructions. You may have to take a grinder to your new bushing a bit. The only other change is this kit comes with the OEM improved BMW 12mm bolt, you'll need to ream the forward mount hole for the Condor 14mm bolt. Instructions here on the support installation here: http://images.activeautowerke.com/pd...Tuning-DSB.pdf I'd apply Red 272 liquid or Stick 268 (less messy) loctite to all the hardware. Ensure all the bolts and bores are clean with Carb cleaner or Alcohol and dry. https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-51153...164323&sr=8-13 I'd also apply it to all your axle bolts. Apply Torq-seal or Cross-check paint to all the hardware for a visual indication of loosening. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=cross-che...ref=nb_sb_noss Sorry for the rambling I'm an Aviation Tech Rep by trade and always try to give good information so folks won't kill someone.... |
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So close yet so far alway. I’m going to use a scissor jack on my lift’s jack tray to position the differential as close possible. At that point I’m going to tie the differential off to prevent what happened last week. I may wait until I get an extra set of hands. Is there a best practice or steps not found in the BMW manual that makes this job easier and safer?
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I found it easier to have the diff sitting vertical on the jack at the lowest part of the aft cover. Jack it slowly and tilt the nose down as it comes up. You want to make sure the jack has a bearing surface that will contact the bottom of the diff once it goes horizontal. Get one aft cover bolt started and then you should be home free.
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I finally got my differential bolted to the subframe/ carrier. After learning the hard way I think removing the sway bar could have saved a ton of time. I could not get past the dam sway bar. I didn’t have help either. Having a second set of hands to help align or move out of the way would have been nice. I still need to finish bolting up the CV joints. I need to run each bolt in and out to remove all the grease from the bolt holes. I did this with the differential out but when I installed the first couple of bolts I still had grease oozing out. I read a few posts on these bolts backing out. Starting with clean and dry bolt holes along with loctite should help. Still need to bolt up the cv joints, reinstall the fuel filter, sway bar, and the ebrake hose clamps. Hope to finish up this week. I really appreciate all the help that I received from this forum.
Thanks again, Mike |
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