Roush 427IR spark plug hole stripped

[patrickt]

FWIW, I have to use a torque wrench on anything that calls for less than 40 ft/lbs. My aluminum heads clearly state 12 ft/lbs with a dab of anti-seize. To me, that feels "finger tight." If I didn't have an array of torque wrenches, click and pointer, I'd strip every aluminum thread I have on my cars.

[eschaider]

Originally Posted by patrickt

FWIW, I have to use a torque wrench on anything that calls for less than 40 ft/lbs. My aluminum heads clearly state 12 ft/lbs with a dab of anti-seize. To me, that feels "finger tight." If I didn't have an array of torque wrenches, click and pointer, I'd strip every aluminum thread I have on my cars.

I am familiar with the experience Patrick. It's not as if I haven't wrecked my share. It's just over time I've turned down the volume on my torquing enthusiasm — and to my surprise and elation it seems to have worked out well.

These inserts are stunningly strong, hard anodized aluminum and what I liked most was their ability to properly image combustion heat on the plugs

[cbreez]

what would you have done if your scope indicated metal inside cylinder??? Oh my...

[eschaider]

Originally Posted by cbreez

what would you have done if your scope indicated metal inside cylinder??? Oh my...

Start the engine after the thread repair and blow it out the exhaust.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by eschaider

Start the engine after the thread repair and blow it out the exhaust.

Maybe vacuum out the cylinder with surgical tubing duct taped to your vacuum cleaner hose. That'll at least get some of the big chunks of crap before you blow them out the exhaust. I think even RoadKill would give a quick vac... maybe.

[Kojack70]

I've done exactly this on a motorcycle.

Originally Posted by patrickt

Maybe vacuum out the cylinder with surgical tubing duct taped to your vacuum cleaner hose. That'll at least get some of the big chunks of crap before you blow them out the exhaust. I think even RoadKill would give a quick vac... maybe.