ChuckG
I know the feeling, mine sat for 2 months after I got it. Took that long to get it insured and registered. Talk about anticipation.

I don't know whats worse, finding out the lights don't work immediately or driving it for 2-3 months before someone told me about it. Think of all the times I could have been rearended. Just lucky I guess.
I was able to fix the problem very easily by going to a CARQUEST auto store and buying part #SLS-66 (switch stoplight). Its a mechanical switch that is cylindrical in shape with a push button on the one end and threads for adjustment on the other end, $8.00. I was able to bend a bracket for it out of stuff I had laying around. (L brackets) I attached it to the square plate which holds the throttle cable in place, already had the hole drilled through it. Then I disconnected the two wires from the brake pressure switch and pulled them back through the fire wall over to the new switch and connected it. PRESTO I now have brake lights that come on with the slightest tap of the pedal.
I'll be honest, it took me about 2 - 2 1/2 hours to do, only because it is a very tight, awkward place to work and I tried different brackets which I bent either too much or to little. Its not complicated at all, just challenging, and I'm not a big guy. Next time I would put the car up on jack stands to get it off the ground, that might make it a little more comfortable to work on.
Hope this helps and good luck with the car.
Welcome to the club !!!

Trueoo7

Ture007
Sounds like a great conversion, could you possibly post a picture of the finish product.
Jay B

I finished replacing the pressure switch. Easy job and the original was defective. But, soon Ill follow Trueoo7's advice and replace it with a mechanical switch from Carquest. Thanks for the help. I'll be getting it inspected tomorrow and putting some miles on this weekend. Finally!
ChuckG

JayBar

I knew that sooner or later I would have to learn how to post pictures. I will work on it as soon as I get back from vacation.

Trueoo7

Ok, I need some help here as well, but my car is SPF. I have a pressure switch screwed into the master cylinder and has wires going into a small box that has other wires going into it. Is it the sensor that screws into the master cylinder or the small black box ??? that everyone says fails?

Thanks
Buzz

Buzz, It is the pressure switch that screws into the master cylinder. Just disconnect the two wires, unscrew the pressure switch, hold your finger on the hole until you are ready to put the new switch in. You should loose only minimal brake fluid. Then reconnect the wires. Pretty simple fix. I still haven't changed to a mechanical switch because the pressure switch that I put in has been working fine for 4 months now.
Chuck

Thanks for the thread guys. Was pretty easy to change out and I'm a poster child for lack of any mechanical skill.

Resurrecting an old thread here. Went to a show yesterday and suddenly had no brake lights... bad switch. Just wondering... hydraulic switches... has anyone tried a Wilwood 300-11181? If so... results?

https://www.wilwood.com/hardware/har...emno=300-11181

That part probably will work. I stuck with what others had used as I wasn't sure if the port was metric or not and wanted to do a no-bleed quick swap. I used Beck/Arnley PN: 201-1087 used on 64 Beetle thru 89 Porsche 911.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...ustomerReviews

Thanks spdbrake. I'll be going "in search of" tomorrow... and thought with their reputation for brakes... maybe it carries over to their switches. Maybe not... it was just a thought... and I thought I'd try to give the thread another option not mentioned previously.

They're rated at 15 amps... the same amperage used for my brake light circuit (I was surprised that most switches I've looked at today seemed to be 20 amps)... have a closing circuit of 60 to 100 psi (possibly as low as 30 psi)... and fit 1/8" NPT. But... I can't seem to find any info on the threads for the existing one... including the one you referenced.

The Beck/Arnley 201-1087 is metric. 10mm x 1.0mm
https://www.rockauto.com/en/partsearch/?partnum=2011087

Nice! I didn't check Rockauto... didn't even occur to me. I order so little through them... I forget what a reference they can be.

Then the Wilwood part wouldn't work... as it's 1/8" NPT. I have already ordered the Beck/Arnley Part this morning. Thank you.

I always carry a spare switch with me.

Good to know Jimbo... glad I ordered two... I'll put the other one in my tool roll.

I put in new pressure switch, no problem since

I'm rebuilding this car one piece at a time.

I've heard that can be an expensive hobby.

I have used the same type of switch in three cars and they each has done well. The placement is rather important, right after the Master Cylinder and before any metering or pressure holding devices.

Ground to a relay, try not to exceed 100mA on that draw.

Hope this helps.

Tru

New switch installed and system flushed over the long weekend... everything turned out well... thanks to all.

IMO brake lights should be wired so they'll work whether the ignition is on or off. There may be times you need to use the brakes with the ignition off (e.g. stuck throttle - don't ask!) and you still want the brake lights illuminated. I believe the safety inspection here (Saskatchewan, Canada) wouldn't approve them if they only work with the ignition 'on'.

okay
 

Man I know this an old post but glad it was here , I almost got rear ended by a club member an he stated he did not see my brake lights we just kinda sluffed it off due to sun light , now i am going to check it out :eek: