| tamanaco |
07-03-2018 04:12 PM |
yep...old thread...butt, looks like it still an issue. I had the same issue...them cheap azz hydraulic/electric these switches failed on Fords back in the 60's, and are still failing today. Way to much heat under the hood for them to work for long, IMHO. changed mine to a mechanically operated switch of the brake pedal 10 years ago...and never had another problem. :D
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The problem I've run into on a couple cars is the use of higher pressure switches that need 60-120 pounds of pressure. Cobras are light cars and don't usually require that much pressure. There are low pressure switches made that engage at around 20-25 psi and work much better in cars like this. Ron Francis sells one but there are other places that sell them as well. Just check the pressure range of the switch before buying.
Larry
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| HTM101 |
07-05-2018 06:00 AM |
Quote:
Originally Posted by LMH
(Post 1447743)
The problem I've run into on a couple cars is the use of higher pressure switches that need 60-120 pounds of pressure. Cobras are light cars and don't usually require that much pressure. There are low pressure switches made that engage at around 20-25 psi and work much better in cars like this. Ron Francis sells one but there are other places that sell them as well. Just check the pressure range of the switch before buying.
Larry
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Had the same issue. The Ron Francis switch works very well on my car. |
| pjmoore2003 |
11-24-2019 03:42 PM |
Should I swap pressure switch if it is activating my lower lights on brighter intensity but nothing on my upper lights?
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| spdbrake |
11-24-2019 07:09 PM |
Quote:
Originally Posted by pjmoore2003
(Post 1469017)
Should I swap pressure switch if it is activating my lower lights on brighter intensity but nothing on my upper lights?
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Your upper lights should be your turn signal lights and are not affected by brakes or running lights. |
| ront49 |
11-27-2019 05:45 AM |
Brake lights out...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Red Era
(Post 478249)
I had the same problem on my ERA. It has a switch that works off of the brake fluid pressure ( located on the master cylinders). Replaced the switch and everything was fine.
Good luck
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Exactly .... I was in a "safety inspection" at the Mid-America Nationals and my brakes took a puke.... replaced the switch located under the master cylinder and that was the issue ... there's so much heat coming from the headers, things tend to not last as long under the hood. |
| Texn8 |
11-29-2019 05:37 PM |
Brake switch
That just made my day!! Ingenious!!
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| Gaz64 |
11-29-2019 10:39 PM |
Quote:
Originally Posted by tamanaco
(Post 1447690)
yep...old thread...butt, looks like it still an issue. I had the same issue...them cheap azz hydraulic/electric these switches failed on Fords back in the 60's, and are still failing today. Way to much heat under the hood for them to work for long, IMHO. changed mine to a mechanically operated switch of the brake pedal 10 years ago...and never had another problem. :D
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This is the way to go.
Can be set at any point you wish to trigger the lights, unlike a pressure switch.
Gary |
| Trueoo7 |
12-03-2019 06:40 PM |
Came across my old thread (haven't been on in over a year) and glad to see its still helping some owners. I can say that the fix I did over 15 years ago is still working just as good as the day I put it in. (just checked it)
SWITCH and come on over to the other side... its worth it. :LOL:
Never did post pictures though, still can if someone needs em. Don't know if the pedal setup is still the same since mine is an older car.
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