I think I've seen posts stating it's on the water, or in Florida or first on the list.

Didn't you deal directly with Reg about the top UT ?

regards
Doug I

Just an idea, tighten one side of the screen, and see if you can get a feeler gauge inbetween the frame & chassis on the other side.
How do the screens mount to the chassis? Another possibilty would be to take some metal off the frame and shim it with nylon or rubber bushes?

I have a boat and to no surprise it is overpowered. I have smacked into waves over the last 17 years that have caused myself and passengers to fly from our seats. The rule is go for the ignition key do not try to regain control if I fly out of the driver seat. I have jumped 100's of waves to the point my gimble had to be replaced. Mercruiser said this is extremely rare. My winshield is encapsulated by an aluminium frame that I have seen jump 2". My glass has never chipped or broken. I wonder if there are different grades of glass that can sustain more abuse. This may be the solution.

Thats what I said! I'll be sending him pics tonight cause my dumb a$$ desided to work on my car without supervision. Bad idea...Thank god I have have two of everything! replace the throttle cable bracket and throttle cable...

sid

If you guys have the center windshield bracket bolted in place, that's most likely the problem. I made one that mounts in reverse, bolted to the body, under the weather strip, and rides up on the inside lower part of the windshield frame, it keeps the windshield from pushing back and allows side to side flex with no strain on the windshield.

There is no center bracket on a BDR or at least on mine. It is just attached at the ends, but once again mine has not broken.

Exactly, neither has mine.........

I am on my third BDR windshield. The first crack (up and down about 8 inches right of center), I found one morning in my garage. The second one lasted about one year, and cracked, in the same place when I slamed my hood. The third one cracked , in the same place when I came off the track (on my fourth event). So what causes it? I havent a clue. But it would seem shock is being transmitted to the glass from the frame. Possibly rubber bushings between the frame and glass frame would help.

I am going to try lexan. I understand it comes tinted and with a no scratch coating. Cost would be about 150.00 for the material. Problem is finding someone that has it in stock and will cut you off a piece. I was told by one supplier who had to order it special ,that I would have to pruchase a 4X8 pices for $600.00. Which would not be bad it I can get 3 other guys that want some.

It's the aluminum frame, change it to a Chrome over brass.

I have 2 FFRs and no problems with the windshields at all.

but I live very close to a BDR dealer, he sees this all the time and have made a request to the manufacturer to correct the problem.

Home Depot sells sheets of Lexan. A sheet big enough for a cobra is about 60.00$. I use these for windshields on my 85 monte carlo stock car.
They are a little tricky to cut the first couple times. However if you take your time you can get it on the first try. I use a jig saw to do the initial cuts.

MDP 747
I checked out Home Depot, the problem is they do not carry the tinted style and it doesn't have the scratch resistant coating.

But tell me what thickness did you use on your stock car?

I'll have to double check on the thickness. I think is was the thickest one available at Home Depot. Are you really sure you want a tinted windshield if it's a street car? The sheet normally comes with a UV coating and a description of which way to face it if you want the protection. I will say the lexan window is durable as hell, you could through baseballs at it and not break it.
It is sensitive to cleaners and the cloth you use to clean it. My girlfriend cleaned mine at the track before a race, and used paper towels. Now as I'm driving around the track at night it's like looking through a spider web as I face the grand stand lights.

You guys are freaking me out with this windshield thing. I hope mines not next! I will tell you I've had my car since Feb, it has 1900 miles on it now. (Got it new)
Here's my problem list:

1. Left rear lower shock mount bolt fell out. Discovered this after
it started clanging at the slightest bump.---Reg overnighted
new bolt.

2. There's is a little collar with allen bolts holding it in place at the
end of my steering column. That little guy holds a bearing in the
steering column. Well that bearing disinagrated. It's fun to
replace too.---Reg overnighted a new bearing, you have to
modify it to make it work.

3. I ordered Cobra valve covers. They have a notched hole
for the PCV valve and grommet. Well they installed a round
grommet and it oused motor oil. So they sent me a new
grommet and it was again a round one. I went to
National Parts Depot and they actually had a notched
PCV grommet from an early Mustang. It worked.

4. Paint chipping or rubbing off in numerous areas.

These cars really should be assembled with better hardware.
ie....lock washers, self locking nuts, and even some lock tite in places. Don't get me wrong I love my car, however, they should have better quality control. For this reason I won't take mine on the track. I just don't think these cars will hold up well with track
abuse. Plus I get my fix with my stock car.

still waiting on a response from Reg and the gang...

I am ordering a 5'X8' sheet of Lexan MR-10 material to make 5 (maybe 6) windshields.
There are 3 of us in the Tampa area and Jay B in Jupiter will claim 4 of the windshields.
Anyone interrested in the other one or two that will remain?
The cost is estimated to be about $95 plus cost to ship from Tampa.

Info about GE Lexan MR-10 can be found here:
http://k-mac-plastics.com/polycarbonate-lexan-mr10.htm

I am going to call GE tomorrow and ensure that the 1/4" sheet can be bent to follow the contour of the windshield frame.

Ed

Ed,
Be careful if your car has to pass any State Safety Inspections, Lexan is not DOT approved to the best of my knowledge. Some places won't care, but some inspectors will.

Just a thought.

MDP727

I have built and re built my Cobra using the best of hardware. I think I will never ever get away from things flexing and rubbing.

The chassis design along with the body style/flex, will I think, always see bits rubbing and moving. I have a friend that has a late Ferrari and he has similiar problems including some seperation and cracks in body work.

Guess I'm saying that it's the nature of the 'beast'.

Good to hear that your supplier has looked after you.

I'm a little envious, as I like the BMW suspension ex the 5 series and have visions of how your car would handle...**)

Have fun.

Bernie

Called down to FL. Reg has not seen the pics yet. But Craig did get them...

I don't know if having the frame independent of the body is the solution, but I have an FFR and have not had any cracking issues. I have been down rough roads, been off track more times than I would like to admit, and on track I have reached straight-a-way speeds of about 170 MPH and corner speeds of about 160 MPH. (California Speedway roval)

My only issue is minute pitting, but I guess with enough track time that would happen no matter what.

Guys theres a whole easier way of doing or going about this.
Maybe You should ask Tony at the Factroy in SA what the problem is. HE builds/assembles these cars so if anyone should know i guess ti will be him.
I have his email addy for those who are interested. PM me and i will gladly give it to you.