Slave cylinder

[hawaiicobra]

Does anyone know the brand of slave thats on the BDR's. Mine just went out and their is no name on it.It is a push type that attaches to the outer flange of the bell housing.The main housing of the slave is natural finish aluminum and about 4"long plus the shaft which is around 6". I've looked at Summit and Jegs etc and they only have the Wilwood pull stlye. Help please, I'm having driving withdrawls.

[Dens]

Hawaiicobra

I think it's from a mid 80s Mazda B 2000 pickup.

Brad

[Cashburn]

I sell them for $15 + shipping. We use our own setup on each car so these are new take offs. I just added them to our store if you need one.

See: http://www.vintage-motorsports.com/s...cat=265&page=1

[Rwillia4]

I am not using mine if you want it send me a PM.

Rob

[hawaiicobra]

Jay,what type of set up are you using and can you get me the information so I can order it from you.I'm not excited to put a $15 slave back on my car. This one lasted only 500miles.Its a piece of ****.I think BDR should be using better quality components on these car.What else did they go cheap on?

[hawaiicobra]

By the way Rob,thanks for the offer.What set up are you using.Pull type? Can you run a pull type off of the rear engine mount on the drivers side just behind the coilover? Thanks for any help.

[cbreez]

you can't complain about those things on this forum...you will be vilified for talking reality about the backdraft quality and workmanship....for a $35K plus car.....you should be happy, after all, its a cobra!
the same weak points mentioned here over and over....never updated or corrected at the factory...remember, as has been said before...they are really busy....too busy for us that plunked down our $!

[Cashburn]

We (Vintage) spend a great deal of time and money in developing our slave cylinder setup that we now install on all the cars we assemble/deliver. If you would like our setup I can come up with a working price tomorrow and we will make them to order.

You need to share what transmission you have and what bellhousing?

[MacGyver]

Have you seen the Finishline slave kit? I am looking for a hydrolic conversion for my 5.0/WCT-5. I would like more onfo on the vintage unit and how it would work for me. The other option I am looking in to is this finishline piece. It is considerably more expensive though (see link). I would welcome any opinions or info on making this switch a reality. The B&B clutch setup is less than reliable. http://www.finishlineaccessories.com...083070368656a6

[Rwillia4]

Hawaii,

I am using a hydro pull that works in the stock hole for a clutch cable on the bell housing. It was tapped and a reducing bushing was used to tighten up the hole then a hydro puller fits thru that and attaches to the clutch arm. no other mounting is required.

[Gatorac]

If you do not change the fluid in the clutch system often, the components will not last long at all. The heat from the headers cooks the fluid in the MC and line. When I say often, I mean at least every 6 months. even after 6 months the fluid is nasty. You should suck the old fluid out of the MC and replace it with new. Then bleed from the slave until the fluid looks good. This usually takes me filling up the MC at least 5 times. BTW, when bleeding don't go over 3 pumps before refilling the MC.

Since doing this my slave has lasted just fine. It is a less then dependable set up though. I can't imagine any other slave lasting longer with fluid that is bad. I'd like to convert to a cable set up.

[Cashburn]

Originally Posted by Gatorac

If you do not change the fluid in the clutch system often, the components will not last long at all. The heat from the headers cooks the fluid in the MC and line. When I say often, I mean at least every 6 months. even after 6 months the fluid is nasty. You should suck the old fluid out of the MC and replace it with new. Then bleed from the slave until the fluid looks good. This usually takes me filling up the MC at least 5 times. BTW, when bleeding don't go over 3 pumps before refilling the MC.

Since doing this my slave has lasted just fine. It is a less then dependable set up though. I can't imagine any other slave lasting longer with fluid that is bad. I'd like to convert to a cable set up.

2 things on this...

1.) The heat shields we sell/use have virtually eliminated this cooking of fluid.
2.) Since about car #400 on the hard line to the clutch takes another path that avoids the headers entirely. Prior to that advancement, I believe around #250 or so the line went through the wheel well (which is different from the even earlier cars I believe).

[round_midnight]

I would recommend against attaching a pull-type slave to the motor mount bracket. I did mine that way originally, and the problem is that you will get a lot of chatter when engaging the clutch. As the clutch starts to engage, the drivetrain twists, causing the clutch to disengage slightly. Then the drivetrain untwists and the process repeats, resulting in an oscillation.

I had a shop weld a bracket on my (steel) bellhousing and attach a push-type slave made by CNC. It works great.

[Cashburn]

Originally Posted by Rwillia4

Hawaii,

I am using a hydro pull that works in the stock hole for a clutch cable on the bell housing. It was tapped and a reducing bushing was used to tighten up the hole then a hydro puller fits thru that and attaches to the clutch arm. no other mounting is required.

We looked at this setup, but it seemed to allow the slave to eventually pull apart since it puts the force on the housing instead of the rod end it is designed to pull with at the core of the assembly.

[Trueoo7]

Tony
Something that we could all use and need are replacement parts. Things that are hard to find and are unique to the car like, door bumpers, side pipe hangers, springs, steering assemblies, gas tanks etc. We need to have an inventory over here in the States so we can get items quickly. With the somewhat short season we get to enjoy these cars its no fun when your car is down waiting weeks for parts. Maybe Vintage could be a parts warehouse where we could call in case of breakdown or accident.

It really would help a lot.

[6t8stang]

Originally Posted by Trueoo7

Tony
Something that we could all use and need are replacement parts.

I agree - it shouldn't be too much trouble to put together a complete parts list on the car. Obviously some things change over time others are unique per the options\engine\etc purchased, etc but would be a good starting point. Maybe even a mini service manual - wouldn't have to be too fancy at first - function before beauty.

I'd be willing to help out searching and/or assembling such information - I'm sure others would be too!

[tony martin]

Thanks For The Start OF YOUR Sugestions And The Parts Request.

Reg Is Currently Building Up A Full Inventry,including Body Pannels.
As Air Frt.is Extremly Uneconomical We Are Shipping Parts As We Have Space In The Containers.

At The Moment He Has Most Parts Available Ex Florida,except SOME Body Parts,as There Has Been A Bit Of A Run On Them Lately.

WE WILL ALSO SEND REG A COPY OF OUR LATEST BILL OF MATERIALS,WHICH IS VERY COMPREHENSIVE,AND MORE IMPORTANTLY HAS A FULL LIST OF OUR PART NOS.WHICH WILL MAKE ORDERING A BREEZE.

I Have Also Asked Him To Discusse Inventry With ALL OF OUR DEALERS.

We Will Have All Parts Ex Florida Within The Next Few Months And Hopefully All Of The Faster Movers With Jay And Our Other Dealers As Well.


Thanks Again For Your Input.

[Cashburn]

hawaii...

Sounds like you have a Wilwood on there and not the "factory unit". Call your dealer to confirm. Or post a picture.

[6t8stang]

Excellent news...thanks Tony!

[hawaiicobra]

I can't send a compressed picture to this site due to the size of our file. Can you email me directly at candace.fukudahanle@hawaiiantel.net so I can show you the pictures.


Aloha,
Jim