|
Radiator Expansion Tank Problem
Twice in the last five weeks the hose off of the bottom of the stainless radiator expansion tank has blown off, spewing a couple of gallons of coolant all over the engine compartment. You could smell the coolant just before the temp started to spike. Luckily both times I was in a place where I could pull off quickly and not overheat the engine, reattach the hose and refill it enough to get home.
Problem seems to be twofold. 1) the hose seems to be a little short and it rides up against the frame cross member and doesn’t reach all the way to the top of the fitting on the bottom of the tank. 2) the real problem seems to be that there is no ferrule or bulge on the end of the hose attachment pipe to keep the hose/clamp from sliding off, no matter how tight I think I am getting it. Anyone else have this problem, and if so what was the solution? Any way for a radiator shop or welder to add something to the bottom of that attachment pipe to keep the hose on better? |
Mike,
Any decent radiator shop in your area should be able to solder a new hose connection on the surge tank that will have a flange on it like you need. This applies if the tank is brass. If the tank is aluminum you may have problems finding a proper hose connection[with the flange]. If you find an aluminum connection it will have to be heli-arc welded to the tank. Sounds like you have a lot of pressure building up in the tank that may not be normal. Have the radiator shop guy put a chemical tester [P&G block check] on the car after the repair. It will determine if the engine has a combustion leak that is causing the high pressure.[head gasket..etc.] Hope this info helps... freekintoad |
Mike,
I just noticed that you say the tank is stainless steel. The rad shop can solder a brass connection on it using the right flux and solder. Try finding a longer hose also. The brass connection may not look right, but it's on the bottom, and the hose will cover most of it up. It will be difficult to find a stainless connection with a flange. freekintoad |
Make sure you burp your cooling system really well, change your radiator cap and the hose that keeps coming off. I have had one come and it was the lack of burping the system well enough. Makes a real mess. I feel your pain.
Bill |
Burping Technique
Bill: What do you recommend as a burping technique/procedure? I am assuming that when I put on a new hose I will lose much of the coolant out of the radiator unless I can get the new hose on really quick!
|
Problem seems to be twofold.
1) the hose seems to be a little short and it rides up against the frame cross member and doesn’t reach all the way to the top of the fitting on the bottom of the tank. 2) the real problem seems to be that there is no ferrule or bulge on the end of the hose attachment pipe to keep the hose/clamp from sliding off, no matter how tight I think I am getting it. Where did you get the expansion tank? My SS tank has the ferrule on the neck. John |
I believe the initial time the hose came off it was likely due to it being a little short. If you could replace that hose with a longer piece (or I can dig one up) you should solve the slipping issue since the proper length hose will not have anywhere to go and not slip off.
The continued popping off is likely due to the air now in the system since the first time it came off. Give Brian a call on the cell to quickly get the burping procedure. Higher operating temps are also a culprit of the air pockets. |
Stock BDR OEM stainless expansion tank. Jay is checking to see what he can do to fix me up!
|
Mike:
Same problem different location: Chrome water pump blowing hoses!! Found two problems: 1. Radiator cap rated at 16 pounds. When checked it was holding past 18 pounds which was the max limit of the testing equipment. 2. Corvette guy told me he had the same problem with a chrome pump he was running. He solved it by (getting a Cobra?) no he drilled two small holes in the neck and ran a wire through it - like a big staple. With the hose clamp above the wire, it can't slid off. Since changing the cap and adding the "staple" I have not had a problem. After cleaning the coolant in the engine compartment 4-5Xs, I can feel your pain!!!:CRY: Good luck. |
rngnkr,
When Jay sends you your new hose. fill the reservior up with water, run motor to operating temp, yes a lot of water will pour over. Wait until all burps of air have ceased. You will see just steam coming out and a little water will come out but not like the big burps. Turn off the engine, allow the remaining burp to spill over and then service with anti freeze. You should be close on the proper servicing of the water cooling system. I would only recommend using the orange type of fluid, or at least that is what my engine build wants me to use with the aluminum heads. Bill |
Please, please, please do not use the GM Orange stuff. It will sludge and gum up. I have seen that stuff make a mess. You cannot mix orange with other coolants. Actually the best solution is the yellow stuff, it will mix fine with all types (green included).
See: http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q...=Google+Search Specifically: http://www.consumeraffairs.com/news0...m_dexcool.html |
Mike
Had a similar problem early on. They used a straight hose and tried to bend it into a 90 to make it fit. All that did was kink it. Took it off and went to the auto parts store, I found one that was pre bent that fit perfectly. Don't know the brand but these are the numbers off it. 9CO5 EBP D1 80MH I also tried to feel if my tank has the lip, if its there, its very little. |
rngnkr,
Check with your engine builder to find our what type antifreeze to use. It seems to be a disagreement on which type to use. We use the same engine builder and you should ask the Eric which one to use. Bill |
Just do not mix the green and orange. if you had green, a serious flush is needed before you add orange. Even then I'd recommend a flush after a few hours of flow. It is the biggest mess to clean when you mix the 2! I bought a car from a dealership once and didn't check the coolant. (my bad!) they had mixed the coolant and the coolant looked like curdled milk! It was freaking disgusting! I had to pull the overflow and pressure wash the inside and break up the big chunks to get it all cleaned out. I'd hate to even know what the inside of the block looked like or even the radiator fo rthat matter. It took about 7 flushed to get it to the point where the water was clear. I had to replace the thermostat, so while I was at it, I did a continuous flush. Just stuck the hose on the overflow and opened the drain in the radiator. What a mess!!! I too have heard to use the orange with aluminum heads. But I have never had an explaination as to why.
just my .02 Josh |
make your own
I had a hose to blow because the tube did not have a ferrule or bulge on it. I took it to a shop and had them to heli arc a bead (ferrule) around the tube. 18,000 miles latter and no problem.
Dwight |
Solution
Jay is sending me a tank with a bead on the bottom of the connection tube, and I will put in a new hose and clamps as well. After a thorough cleaning of the engine compartment I will refill and burp the system.
Thanks for all the good advice! |
I had the bypass hose on the head blow off on mine @ 4500 RPM with the hood still off the car, dang what a mess!!! I still find junk left behind. I feel your pain!!
|
Mike,
Got tank late today. Have the bead added and will pickup some additional hose to send with it. Going out tomorrow. Make sure I get your old one back ;) |
Thanks!
Thanks Jay - I will probably just return the old one in the same box as the one you are sending me.
|
There was a wonderful thread on antifreeze vs. water a couple or three years ago, did it survive the server/system crash?
#139 runs at 80 degrees C no matter what the weather or driving conditions, I turn the fans on at startup. Since there is no overflow tank, she gets topped off with filtered water at every preflight. I always see a bit of rusty water when she spills over, cast-iron block, I guess. |
| All times are GMT -7. The time now is 06:52 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0
The representations expressed are the representations and opinions of the clubcobra.com forum members and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and viewpoints of the site owners, moderators, Shelby American, any other replica manufacturer, Ford Motor Company. This website has been planned and developed by clubcobra.com and its forum members and should not be construed as being endorsed by Ford Motor Company, or Shelby American or any other manufacturer unless expressly noted by that entity. "Cobra" and the Cobra logo are registered trademarks for Ford Motor Co., Inc. clubcobra.com forum members agree not to post any copyrighted material unless the copyrighted material is owned by you. Although we do not and cannot review the messages posted and are not responsible for the content of any of these messages, we reserve the right to delete any message for any reason whatsoever. You remain solely responsible for the content of your messages, and you agree to indemnify and hold us harmless with respect to any claim based upon transmission of your message(s). Thank you for visiting clubcobra.com. For full policy documentation refer to the following link: