jack stands

Tday · #1 (**permalink**) 10-31-2007, 05:51 PM

OK, here's a real newbie question. I've been jacking up the car one wheel or side at a time for little things. (that's fine right?)

To get the car on 4 jack stands for the winter, though I'm figuring I need to jack the middle of the the front...put it on stands, then jack the back. So how do I keep this thing from rolling when I go to jack the back? Though the floor is flat, does the car risk tipping the jack stands when I unweight the rear wheels.

Also, the jack point in the back seems obvious, but where is the right jack point in the front?

And where do the jack stands go in the front---right at the frame corners near the gussets?

Do you put pads on your jacks to keep the frame paint from chipping?

Thanks,
Tom

767Jockey · #2 (**permalink**) 10-31-2007, 06:14 PM

Can't help you with the jackstand location thing on a B'Draft, as I don't own one. As far as the jackstands scratching the frame, I just put scrap pieces of carpeting between the jackstand and the frame. Solves the problem. Jute backing toward the jackstand, carpet toward the frame. Good luck.

Jerry Clayton · #3 (**permalink**) 10-31-2007, 06:45 PM

Go read the post by History Buff on 10-29-07 about the California fires and then evaluate if you really want to put it up on jackstands...
Remember, it always happens t someone else

Jerry

Tday · #4 (**permalink**) 10-31-2007, 06:57 PM

Never thought of that...

HI Cobra · #5 (**permalink**) 10-31-2007, 08:03 PM

I have a Classic Roadster which has solid frame up front. I just jack that
up, put the stands, then go back and put a small wood block on the jack
and jack it up under the pumpkin (this is halloween) and put the stands
under the frame by the axles. Nothing moves except the jack when
jacking. If I have to get it as high as the stands go (like when I pulled the tranny) I go back and forth in stages so as not to get one end too high.
Keeps the transmission fluid in the tranny until you drain it.

You just need to find solid points on the frame to put the stands.
I'm not in California and I have a fire sprinkler system in my house
including the garage but I don't leave it up for long - don't want to miss
any driving time here.

Now that all the brush has been burned there
one should be safe until next year. Right!

Got the Bug · #6 (**permalink**) 10-31-2007, 08:50 PM

Tom - I just bought some new jackstands from Summit Racing along with some urethane jackstand pads.

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...96&D=%2D161196

They seem to work well and protect the frame from getting scratched up.

Rwillia4 · #7 (**permalink**) 11-01-2007, 07:54 AM

I went to home depot and purchased a tube of silicone sealant. I covered the top of the jack stands with the silicone, works perfect.

As far as jacking the car. I jack the front of my BDR on the right frame rail as deep as I can get the jack from the front. When you jack up that side the other side will also come up. I put the jack stand on the frame near to front suspension. I put the jack stands in set at the same height. One side of the car (away from the jack ) will be lower, this determines the height. Lower the car slowly onto the stands checking to make sure the car comes down straight.
For the rear I put the jack on the frame just in front of the fuel pickup and jack it up the wheels ont he jack will roll keeping the front from "falling" of the stands. I put the jack stands on the outside of the same frame member the jack is on, lower slowly.

Tday · #8 (**permalink**) 11-01-2007, 08:46 AM

Silicone...what a great idea...I've got that already.

So it sounds like you don't jack the car at the front cross frame member ...that's exactly what I was worried about--it's not nearly as big as the rear cross frame member right in front of the fuel pickup. OK, use the side frame and the car tilts and you put the stands in at the height of the lower side. If going to the top of the stands, go in stages.

Thanks, Tom

Jerry Clayton · #9 (**permalink**) 11-01-2007, 09:01 AM

I don't like to have vehicles on stands unless I'm working on them

If you guys are talking about storing your cars on jack stands---I wouldn't do that
You are going to have the weight of the car on hard points that are not stressed to support the vehicles weight. Not to mention that if the floor, height of stands or the frame is unevevn/level you will be putting your car under a stress that will cause body alignment problems and possible even lead to stress cracks in the frame---

The only thing you are accomplishing is to unload the only parts of the car that are designed/engineered to hold the UNSPRUNG weight of the vehicle!!

Jerry

rocket7171 · #10 (**permalink**) 11-01-2007, 09:10 AM

As for winter storage I only put some additive to fuel. Myself, I don't like the idea on letting the car sit off the wheels for any period of time.
I did buy a outdoor rug with rubber on back to keep moisture from getting to bottom of car. This has worked great for me. I used to find the whole bottom of the car dripping wet during the cold months. Large enough so whole car is on top of it. Hook up battery maintainer and cover the car and only start it when it can be ran up to running temp so all moisture is removed from motor and exhaust. I normally start it four times during winter and take it for a run.

tom

Tday · #11 (**permalink**) 11-01-2007, 09:27 AM

I can see what you're saying. I was thinking of keeping the car up while I cleaned the undercarriage and taking my time. I can use a friends shop lift on Saturdays...probably a better idea. The stand heights will vary I'm sure.

The rubber backed carpet is a great idea. Hadn't thought about wet underside. I read a post where someone put a 60 watt light in the car...held on to the gas pedal and pointed at the dash. Someone else put a shop light under the oil pan. I'll have to think about that...esp if I'm covering the car.

Tom

Speedysnake · #12 (**permalink**) 11-01-2007, 11:52 AM

Question for everyone;

I've been jacking the rear of the car on the crossmember in front of the fuel tank, and the front on the cross member that the steering box is mounted on. I don't leave the car that way, but it seems like the simplest way to do it. Does anyone think this could cause any problems?

Nor Cal Al · #13 (**permalink**) 11-02-2007, 07:08 AM

I believe I once asked Tony about front jacking and, if my aging memory is correct, he said not to lift by the cross member that the steering rack is bolted to. Therefore, you would jack by the frame rails.
I use 2 small jacks and lift each side a little at a time, then put stands as close to the front suspension as possible.
I jack the rear under the differential (pumpkin!).
AL

Jerry Clayton · #14 (**permalink**) 11-02-2007, 09:27 AM

In general, you shouldn't jack an irs car by the differential pumpkin--the pumpkin mounting is only for the gear box forces and not to carry ( Or support) the weight of the vehicle.

Jerry

RodgerH · #15 (**permalink**) 11-02-2007, 10:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rocket7171

I used to find the whole bottom of the car dripping wet during the cold months. tom

Hey Tom,

That would drive me crazy! That much moisture in the air makes everything RUST!

Get yourself a portable dehumidifier for your garage. I set mine on 40% and let it run year round. Keeps everything dry. No moisture or surface rust on anything.

Rodger

rocket7171 · #16 (**permalink**) 11-02-2007, 10:50 AM

The car is now in a warm garage instead of no heat but the rug still should help mine and others fighting this issue. Never had a rust problem yet........

thanks,
tom

Jerry Clayton · #17 (**permalink**) 11-02-2007, 11:44 AM

A problem with storing a car in a heated garage that also is used for daily driver---
Every time the door opens and you bring in the dd , as the garage/vehicle warms back up everything goes thru the dew point and condensation occurs
Some of the worst rusted vehicles I have seen were stored in heated garages that also had a daily driver vehicle( DD )

Cold barns are sometimes better

Jerry