Blas

[wanab5150]

Does anyone know if BLAS is still around. I need another wiring diagram. I think my car ate the one I bought in 2009. I have Superformance #2769

Also. if anyone knows...... My left rear tail light and my right front park lamps are shorted out. I determined the left rear and right front are linked as are the right rear and left front. Why....I don't know.

I replace the fuse and it immediately blows. I unplugged the right front light and it still blew the fuse. I unplugged the tail light and it still blew a fuse.

I'm assuming I can go to the fuse panel, disconnect the wires from the hot side and reattach them one at a time until the fuse blows again. There are several wires on the number 12 fuse which is supposed to be the lights (not head lights or signals). Anyone have a clue????

[Mark IV]

spfwiringdiagrams@comcast.net

Just talked with him this week

[Blas]

Mark Twain replied, Reports of my death have been greatly exaggerated.....

Yes, I have the wiring Diagram for your chassis and a replacement copy is in the mail. Check the wiring on the rear bulb socket then the front bulb socket. Take one at a time out of the circuit and change the fuse. See what happens. Turn signals ok?

I have 5 different versions of the Wiring Diagrams for the Superformance MKIII, and 2 versions for the Superformance GT40.
Owners Manuals and Diagrams for the Superformance MKII Slabside’s and FIA’s, and the CSX Slabside’s and FIA’s. Also the CSX4000/6000 Cars.
And finally, the Sebring Tribute and Bondurant Tribute Cars.
I’m working on 2 new projects that I hope to have finished before Spring since I’ll be locked-up in the house and garage during the winter....

Blas

[wanab5150]

All lights function but the right front parking light and the left rear tail lamp.
I replaced the bulbs-blew the fuse
removed the bulbs- blew the fuse
disconnected the right front harness-blew the fuse
blows the fuse immediately as you place it in the socket.

Does that mean the hot wire from the fuse is grounded front or rear? If so can I disconnect the hot wire and get positive from another post?

Any ideas what to do next? Electrical gives me a headache. thanks Tom.

[SunDude]

I finally got around to buying one of Blas's excellent wiring diagrams. He was super helpful and easy to deal with, and had my drawing delivered in record time.

Should save me lots of time and money next time there's an electrical gremlin to deal with.

[cobrasnake]

Tom - I recently had a confusing lighting issue - not the same as yours instead, the turn signals and running lights were acting improperly. It turned out I had to more tightly secure the ground wires on the front signal/running light sockets. I never blew a fuse but you might try checking the 1157 sockets up front. It's a weird setup.

Keep in mind the 1157 bulbs in the front control both the signal and running lights. The rear 1157 bulbs (upper in my car) control the brakes and running lights. By not being properly grounded I had dim running lights, turn signals were off and some other confusing non-headlight lighting.

Once I realized it wasn't a bad bulb, I stuck my head under the front fenders and saw the barely loose ground wires.

Blas' diagram helped me figure things out but my problem was not shown in a diagram because he assumes the wiring is fully functional. I refer to his diagrams frequently (thanks Blas)!

Tom

[eschaider]

I finally bought one of Blas' wiring diagrams a year or so ago. Should have done it years earlier. The diagrams are excellent and will save you many, many hours of confusion and frustration circuit tracking / tracing as you assemble or repair one of these cars.


Ed

[Blas]

Thanks for the kind words everyone….
Blas

[PDUB]

So, does this mean that if someone says he doesn't like the wiring diagram he is Blas pheming?

[spf645]

Has anyone had an issue with amp gauge needle bouncing? Then would settle for a few seconds, then back to bouncing. I did change out the battery. Same issue. Then new Alt, and regulator. Same issue still. And also noticed headlights would bright and dim as amp needle bounced. When engine fans came on it pegged the needle to the - side of gauge. This is a spf car, 645. Any ideas Blas, or anyone. Thanks .. Car did not have this issue until the last time I drove it,,, before new battery.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by spf645

Has anyone had an issue with amp gauge needle bouncing?

Using a 12 gauge wire with alligator clips on each end, clamp one end of the wire to a known good ground, preferably the negative battery terminal, but any good ground will do. Clamp the other alligator clip to the metal housing of the voltage regulator (assuming you have an external VR). Make it on a clean clamp location, not one on a painted surface. Then see if the bouncing disappears. If it does, replace the temp line with a nice permanent ground wire.

[spf645]

Thanks Patrick, Yes external VR. I'll give your idea a try. I've been chasing down ground connections most of the evening, but have not checked under dash yet. Do you think maybe the gauge could be part of the problem? Being that headlight surge and gauge needle bounce seem to happen at the same time. Just discovered that today.

[NROTOXIN]

If you haven't already, verify your battery ground cable to frame is not broken or at least has a clean connection.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by spf645

Do you think maybe the gauge could be part of the problem? Being that headlight surge and gauge needle bounce seem to happen at the same time. Just discovered that today.

An ammeter needle bounce, wiggle or "waver," as we like to say, is caused by one of two things: 1) An ammeter that just plain wavers, even when system current flow is rock solid (rare); or 2) Fluctuations in system current (more likely). Fluctuations in system current will be caused by one of two things: 1). Fluctuating load; or 2) Fluctuating generation. A really quick, simple test to see if your ammeter always wavers is to leave the engine off, but turn the lights on. The ammeter needle will of course move to the left showing a discharge and should be rock solid. If for some reason the needle wavers even with the engine off then that would be unusual. A fluctuating load, in a simple car like a Cobra, is unlikely, but possible. The most common reason for a wavering ammeter needle (when you never had one before) is you have fluctuating current because the alternator and voltage regulator, which work together, are misbehaving. An idle that is not holding steady can also cause the needle to waver but that will go away as you increase the revs.

[spf645]

Engine off, tried the lights, then the engine over ride to the cooling fans. Needle was steady in both test, and to to the left as you stated. Needle bounce would happen in maybe 10 second intervals the last time driven. From steady to fast 10 amp swing movement. 12 ga wire test you mention, I've not had time to try yet.
Keep the ideas coming. Thanks again Patrick

I'll take another look at the battery ground. But car starts great now with new battery, even when engine is hot. Thanks NROTOXIN

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by spf645

Engine off, tried the lights, then the engine over ride to the cooling fans. Needle was steady in both test, and to to the left as you stated. Needle bounce would happen in maybe 10 second intervals the last time driven. From steady to fast 10 amp swing movement. 12 ga wire test you mention, I've not had time to try yet.
Keep the ideas coming. Thanks again Patrick

If the temporary ground test doesn't fix it, then post (or have one of your kids/grandkids post on your behalf) a quick YouTube vid of the gauge bouncing every ten seconds. That does sound goofy, but I'd like to see it with my own eyes.

[patrickt]

But first, repeat the "headlights on/engine not running" test but this time have your ignition key in the RUN position but still with the engine not running. Watch your ammeter needle for a good 30 seconds and see if it blips over every ten seconds or remains steady.

[spf645]

Originally Posted by patrickt

But first, repeat the "headlights on/engine not running" test but this time have your ignition key in the RUN position but still with the engine not running. Watch your ammeter needle for a good 30 seconds and see if it blips over every ten seconds or remains steady.

Tried this test Patrick, needle was steady.

I took a couple minute video with phone "car running", but that is going to involve a 6 year old to show me how to post, or do it for me. Vacation is over, so time checking car will be limited the rest of the week.

[Blas]

Have been in contact with owner.
Blas