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Harbor Freight has some presses that will work. They arn't too bad for home use equipment but if you were to use it a lot then you would want to get a better quality one.
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I actually ordered one from summit.. :>)
but isn't there a pinion sleeve of some sort that is needed to press the bearing on or do I just make one with some steel pipe? |
This is what I am looking for for pressing the bearing on with..
http://www.4x4tools.com/images/tools...arts%20038.jpg |
Rebuild
Rebuilding of your existing diff will only include what you have to replace!
Ring and Pinion..... Crush sleeve... Selection of a few shims..... 2 Bearings for the pinion..... Carrier bearings? These are not always replaced but can be...... Seal.... Pinion flange nut....... Cover gskt......sometimes............... Look closely at the gears to make sure they match.... set-up if fairly simple........ If you need help.....I teach this stuff....give me a call I'm only in Modesto, a roadtrip wouldn't be out of the question. I've got the tools and a pinion flange holder and such............ John Peterson (209) 404-5957 |
OFM,
Take the generous offer of John Peterson! Could save you a lot of money and aggravation, plus watch him once and you will be a pro! :) |
I would but I have already started the process. Disassembled it all this morning.. I bought all the tools I need to get it done.. More news later..
Here is what I am doing by the way.. rebuild traction lok replace pinion and ring gear all new bearings and seals convert drums to disc brakes powder coat all new exterior parts (brakes, brackets) new brake lines in the rear Gonna be a busy weekend. |
You may need a torque wrench larger than what you have for the Pinion nut. The pros use an Impact wrench and are constantly checking for the "Right" feel.
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I have a wrench to check the preload in inch pounds and a really big wrench to tighten the pinion nut. It should all be good.
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If you don't have a way to check pinion depth, use your old ones. They should be about .030 thick. On the pinion look for markings of + or - 1 or 2. That means you need to add or subtrack that from the number on your shimpack. That should give you a starting point. Install your pinion with the inner brng and outer brng and slinger and flange, and OLD nut. Torque to rotational torque spec given for that, I believe 16 to 19 in/lb. Install center section, set backlash, do pattern ck if ok thats the only way to verify pinion setting is proper without depth gauge. Then install crush sl, oil seal, new nut, torque etc.
The S springs in the track lock can be tricky to get back in also. There is a little trick though if you get stuck. Don't beat yourself up or get frustrated, take your time, feel free to call. or whatever. John. |
Thanks John. I am a bit of a tool whore. So I bought a pinion depth gauge. I have your phone number written on the white board in my garage. Lol
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Another trick to use when installing ring gear is to pre heat the gear in the oven at 200deg for about 20 minutes prior to install on the carrier, and it will drop right on without having to beat it to death.
JP |
Thanks for the tip John.. I actually have an oven in my garage I use for powder coating so I can use that and not anger the wife. lol
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Just a quick update... I have EVERYTHING apart now.. Progress has been slow because of my medical disabilities but I am progressing.. I did have an issue getting the carrier bearings off but a $3.00 cut off wheel won. No nicks at all on the carrier. I also had to run to Kragen to borrow a bearing puller for the axle bearings. Nifty and effective tool. lol
So far I have replaced the axle bearings and seals, new bearing races in place for the pinion. I am working on the traction lok next. I have also powder coated all of the brake parts for my drum to disc conversion. Well back to work. I plan to drive her tomorrow. :) |
OK Mikey.....we need a current report.
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Well I finished rebuilding the traction lok, pressing the bearings on the carrier and am in the midst of setting pinion depth. I took a break from the rear end and started mounting the disc brake brackets that I powder coated and am trying to decide if I should powder coat the calipers as well. A nice bright red or gloss black may look nice. My back started hurting a lot at one point so my wife got her work clothes on and came out and helped. She drove the new bearing races for the pinion in for me. It's easier for her since she is only 5'4" tall. lol
So I am calling it a night and tomorrow morning will work on setting pinion depth and moving forward from there. Thoughts on caliper color? Red? Black? Ford Blue? Natural? |
I must be insane. I went to bed at 1am and here I am at 6am getting ready to get back at it. On a weekend even. More news later.
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You went to bed????? With the project unfinished?????????
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Take care of your back Mike. The project can wait.
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I got quite a bit done and then had to call it quits. My back is yelling at me. I just took some morphine to fend off the pain. My wife is getting dressed right now to be my hands. What a woman.
This morning I set the pinion depth, pinion preload, carrier backlash and checked the runout. All are within spec. I installed the passenger side brake bracket, axle and drum. I was working on the driver side when my body screamed stop. It really sucks being disabled like this. I'm going to go down and check the wear pattern once my meds fully kick in. |
Well with the exception of bleeding the brakes and putting the wheels back on it's all done.
Just as a recap we (my wife and I ) rebuilt the rear end with new seals, races, bearings, pinion and ring gear. We also installed the carbon traction lok upgrade , disc brake conversion and powder coated all the new bare parts a high gloss black. Not bad for a guy with a bad back. Thankfully I have a wonderful wife that helped a lot. |
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