Replace Ring and Pinion

onefastmustang · #1 (**permalink**) 05-21-2010, 08:14 AM

Has anyone here replaced their own Ring and Pinion? Is it really all that black magic or can anyone do it with the right tools and parts?

elmariachi · #2 (**permalink**) 05-21-2010, 08:42 AM

I wouldn't say its Black Magic, but if you get it wrong, things can leak, wear and break and that can be dangerous and expensive. Search yahoo for "Ford 9" rebuild" or similar and you'll find plenty of detailed how-to websites. You need the right tools, including lots of compressed air to remove the pinion nut, a good torque wrench, a dial indicator and dye/marking ink to setup the tooth pattern. Its very straight-forward if you have a reference and the tools.

Wbulk · #3 (**permalink**) 05-21-2010, 09:38 AM

I have done about four of them. Changed the gears and added a Truetrac in my 9" for my roadster last year. I think they are fun to do. Attention to detail is important, and don't hurry it. You need a press, and inch pound and regular pound torque wrench and a dial indicator. Gear marking compound should come with new gears. When you read the instructions you will find that bearing preload, pinion depth, and ring gear backlash all come into play to make the tooth pattern correct. I have never used a pinion depth gauge, it just takes a little longer to get it right. I made a yoke holding tool that fits a lot of differentials to take off the pinion nut and help set preload on the bearings. Some use shims others use crush sleeves on the pinion. Also buy the "complete install kit", that comes with all new bearing, shims, and seals.

If you like doing this sort of thing I suggest getting a couple of articles off the web and studying them to get an idea what it involves. You really need to understand the concepts before you begin. There are also some how to CDs available. BTW I started my career as a street cop in Fairfiled Ca. back in the early 80s,

Wayne

onefastmustang · #4 (**permalink**) 05-21-2010, 10:18 AM

I bet it was a lot calmer back in the 80's then it is now.. Luckily I get to live in the nice side of town. Unfortunately this is where the thieves come to steal. :>(

The police department last year awarded my car a trophy for "Most likely to get a speeding ticket" LOL.

onefastmustang · #5 (**permalink**) 05-21-2010, 11:01 AM

Well in looking at this and reading some sites on doing it. Including a HOWTO on ford muscle. I think I will give this a shot. All I need is a rebuild kit, pinion depth gauge and a press. So about 250-300 bucks in parts and tools and I am off. I already have the gearset. It's been sitting in a bag for 3 years out in the garage.. lol.

Excaliber · #6 (**permalink**) 05-21-2010, 02:51 PM

I've done a few myself, never used a depth pinion gauge actually.

Not just any inch pound torque wrench will do the job, by the way. Get one that is is close to the range with which you need to work. I like the "break away" style myself, always set at exactly whatever amount you buy one for. There not cheap... I prefer the crush sleeve.

onefastmustang · #7 (**permalink**) 05-21-2010, 02:56 PM

It seems the only tool I don't have is a press.. Will a bench press with a 2-4" working area work or do I need a bigger one.. ??

Wbulk · #8 (**permalink**) 05-21-2010, 04:12 PM

If you are doing a 9" it needs to be high enough to press on the carrier bearings and the pinion bearings. I have a short 12 ton press, but it doesn't need that much pressure, you need the height. You could just pay to have the bearings pressed on. Napa on the south end of Texas st. use to press bearings. When using the crush sleeve for the pinion bearing preload I have found that if you measure the existing crushed sleeve and then on a press get the crush started on the new sleeve it a lot easier going. Crush it so it's still about .075 bigger than the old crushed sleeve. Don't go to far.

There are a few other tricks to make it go easier. If you have questions send me an email and we can talk on the phone.

Wayne

MotorcityCobra · #9 (**permalink**) 05-21-2010, 04:47 PM

Excaliber has a very good point. Remember that torque wrench tolerances are based on their full range, not the torque you happen to be using it for.

wetdog · #10 (**permalink**) 05-22-2010, 12:08 AM

OFM I have done loads of them (they used to use them on ground equiptment at UAL) the best trick I can pass on is to make dummy bearings out of your old ones by taking a sanding wheel to the inside of the bearing until it slides on without having to press it on .
The other thing is to make a simple tool to hold the yoke because it takes alot of torque to loosen and tighten...WD

blykins · #11 (**permalink**) 05-22-2010, 05:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by onefastmustang

It seems the only tool I don't have is a press.. Will a bench press with a 2-4" working area work or do I need a bigger one.. ??

Put the pinion in the freezer overnight. A few minutes before you need to put the bearings on, put the bearings in boiling water. Get a good glove on and push the bearing on by hand.

As for assembly, forget crush sleeves, use a solid pinion spacer. You need a good torque wrench that reads in inch-lbs to set the pinion bearing drag. You'll also need to learn how to read gear paint...if it's not right the gears will make noise.

blykins · #12 (**permalink**) 05-22-2010, 05:32 AM

BTW, don't waste money on a pinion depth gauge. I never use one. Learn to read the paint and you don't need one. A 9" Ford is the easiest to setup because it's so easy to change things. The shims between the pinion support and case set the pinion depth. The side adjusters set the backlash.

You'll also need a good spanner wrench to turn the side adjusters.

DAVID GAGNARD · #13 (**permalink**) 05-22-2010, 06:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blykins

Put the pinion in the freezer overnight. A few minutes before you need to put the bearings on, put the bearings in boiling water. Get a good glove on and push the bearing on by hand.

As for assembly, forget crush sleeves, use a solid pinion spacer. You need a good torque wrench that reads in inch-lbs to set the pinion bearing drag. You'll also need to learn how to read gear paint...if it's not right the gears will make noise.

Dats the way an old Ford mechanic taught me how to do it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Quote:

You'll also need a good spanner wrench to turn the side adjusters.

I made mine out of a big old socket, welded two little "rods" opposite each other on the outside of the socket, works like a charm,took me about 10 minutes to make.......

David

onefastmustang · #14 (**permalink**) 05-22-2010, 11:08 AM

All great tips.. thanks guys.. I plan to do this this coming weekend. I have almost everything needed to do it. I just need to pick up a couple of tools and I will be ready to go.. And if anyone happens to be in fairfield and wants to lend a hand I wont protest.. lol

Rick Parker · #15 (**permalink**) 05-22-2010, 12:26 PM

This is an 8.8, not a 9" therefore an entire different setup needed.

Excaliber · #16 (**permalink**) 05-22-2010, 01:30 PM

Good point Rick, two totally different animals there.

Hey, I LIKE crush sleeves, to risky using spacers/shims (more work), but granted that is the best way.

tcrist · #17 (**permalink**) 05-22-2010, 04:35 PM

Mike,
An 8.8 is a lot different than a 9". At least you have the 4 post and as long as you have the jacking brace that goes to the 4 post you should not have too much of a problem working on it.

When you take it apart be sure to keep the shims from each side separated so you can measure them. At least it will give you a starting point.

I have a mag base dial indicator if you want to borrow it.

Double Venom · #18 (**permalink**) 05-22-2010, 05:14 PM

Mike a secret that a FORD ASE mechanic showed me: when you get ready to put the washers etc. back in place you will find it almost impossible to get everything to fit where it goes. Ford does this too, only I have to use a "Come A Long" type tool with two big "L's" on each end instead of hooks. Hook one of the "L's" into each end of the axle tubes. (Have the belts/cables running across the rear end from the back (9").) Once you are ready to install tighten the come A Long, you are ONLY looking to open up the rear end by a few THOUSANDTHS! You are NOT trying to bend the tube at all! It helps to have somebody cranking on the Come A Long while you or someone is sliding the rear end together. It has NEVER taken me a FULL Click on the Come A Long to work. More of a bounce, the rear end will fall into place, then release the Come A Long.

Piece of Cake
DV
(Boy oh boy is it good to get my laptop back/fixed! Cpt. Eddie I did a boo-boo! All better!)

onefastmustang · #19 (**permalink**) 05-23-2010, 10:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tcrist

Mike,
An 8.8 is a lot different than a 9". At least you have the 4 post and as long as you have the jacking brace that goes to the 4 post you should not have too much of a problem working on it.

When you take it apart be sure to keep the shims from each side separated so you can measure them. At least it will give you a starting point.

I have a mag base dial indicator if you want to borrow it.

Thanks Terry. I appreciate the offer. I actually bought one when I built the motor for this car. One thing I am not afraid to do is buy tools. I'm only 43 so I figure I will use them for the next 20+ years. Also if this works out I may put some 4.10s in my Mustang to liven her up a bit more.

onefastmustang · #20 (**permalink**) 05-24-2010, 09:05 AM

Well I have been given a lot of options over the past few days. I've decided to go ahead and replace the gears in my existing rear end. I did have a very enticing offer to buy another rear and swap them with the gears and get disc brakes to boot but that would make my a$$ end 1.5 inches wider and I am trying to make it narrower.

My final question is since I got a hold of press who sells that tool to press the bearing on the pinion? I have been looking around and have yet to find one.. :>(