Mounting a Classic Roadsters Body: My way...

[Double Venom]

OK, I will go through this once more, it has to be all over the archives but I will go through it again, step by step. IF I forget a step I will come back to this thread and update it here.

Rockman, Rocco, etc.,

Leave the Frame BARE AT THIS POINT! In other words do NOT build a rolling chassis yet........

#1- ONLY cut out the door panels in the body and the doors, cut out the panels in the body where the door will open into. (Cutting out the scoop is an option at this time.) Do NOT cut ANY other holes at this time.

#2- Mount the cowl bar with the supplied 1/4x20 bolts if it already hasn't been done. Strongly suggested for a side impact hit, but NOT necessary, WELD the feet of the cowl bar to the frame-in and out- both sides.

#3- Install the radiator hoop - tight.

#4- Install hood hinges, loose but completely mounted.

#5- Assemble your door hinges-do NOT attach to the doors yet.

#6- Install JUST the door STRIKERS. (Attempt to center them with the holes already drilled in the doors.

#7- Using a plasma Cutter or a 4"- 5" "Cut off Wheel", cut the steel plates out of the cowl bar. (Used for mounting your doors.) Mark these in some fashion so that you can install right side to right, left side to left, FACING THE SAME DIRECTION AND INNER FACING THE SAME WAY AS CUT OUT!

#8- Apply the rubber strip to the frame as indicated in the manual. (If you really want it to stick and not move while mounting the body spray it with spray glue first.)

NOW YOU ARE READY TO MOUNT THE BODY!

#9- Install the firewall, using the mentioned rubber strips above. Do not bolt it in place yet.

#10- A lift, two guys or even four make it real easy, drop the body down onto the frame with the defroster duct (underneath the front body cowl) fitting in between the dual cowl bars Move the body as far rear ward as you can get it. It should rest against the firewall and the front upright brace of the cowl bar.

Look up under the rear edge of the engine firewall/body. This flange (the top of the firewall) should be saddled by the body.***This saddle if you will, which fits over the firewall it is NOT mentioned anywhere in the manual, (any editions!) Shame. SHAME!

***WHEN YOU ARE FINALLY READY TO MOUNT THE BODY FOR THE LAST TIME AND PERMANENTLY YOU WILL NEED TO PUT A "HEAVY" BEAD OF SILICONE IN THIS CHANNEL. OPTION* I USE THE OLD STYLE WINDOW RIBBON SEAL TO INSTALL WINDSHIELDS OF YESTERDAY. EASY TO USE, NEAT AND WILL CERTAINLY DO THE JOB!

When you hear guys complaining about a VIBRATION in their car, usually 45MPH, to 65 MPH and then disappears above or below this speed, they OR their builder usually skipped this section. This is simply called "Cowl Shake" and goes back to the original Cobras!

#11- Once you have your body mounted AS WELL AS IT IS- leave the damned tape measure in your tool box!

Spaced evenly on top of the inner rocker panels that sit on your frame rails drill three spaced holes to be tapped for 1/4x20 bolts into the frame rails. (I use 1/4x20 FLANGE BOLTS- THESE WILL NOT COME LOOSE!) Once this is done and they are TIGHT then go to each inboard side of the rockers, split the difference the top bolts are put in and put three more evenly spaced 1/4 x 20 FLANGE bolts in place on the sides. Once these are tight then you will be able to take the body off at will and put it back exactly where you have fitted it! Just tighten the top bolts down until the side bolts line up then put them back in.

#12 Once your body is down where it will be - Mount your hood. Very easy to do at this point (Assuming you have not installed the motor etc., yet!) Lay the hood in place crawl up inside the engine compartment align your hood from underneath (Helps to have someone out side at this time.)
adjust the hood hinge at the radiator hoop forward and back wards to line up with the mounting holes in the hood. Try to hit dead center with the slots. Tighten up the rod collars that keep the hinge from going left and right. Now your hinge should be right on and you can take the hood off and install exactly where it goes.

#13 - DO NOT drill out the holes in the end of your doors where the hinges will bolt to! Bolt the hinges to your doors tightly! Now bolt the plates from the cowl bar that you previously cut out to the door hinges, PAYING STRICT ATTENTION TO WHICH ONE IS LEFT/RIGHT, POINTING IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION, BOTH FORWARD AND UP!

IMPORTANT: YOU MAY HAVE TO TRIM THE FRONT OR BACK OR BOTH OF THESE PLATES TO GET THEM TO FIT BACK IN RIGHT!

This part is where patience and a couple of guys to hold the doors exactly in place comes in! Slide the doors in place, pull the hinge plates back into the cowl bar, making sure ALL AXIS's of the door matches the body WITH THE EXCEPTION OF THE REAR GAP OF THE DOOR! (We'll get to this gap a little later!) What you want perfect is the height of the door front AND back, the front edge with a proper gap AND about 2/3rd's of the rocker from the front to the back. the final rear gap and the rear part of the rocker will be matched up in another step!

Once you are satisfied with your fit and this IS the final fitting JUST TACK the hinge plates back to the cowl. Now stand back and check it all over. (I know your door will not close yet....) If you are happy with your fit and the hinge is NOT binding anywhere WELD THE PLATE IN NOW-USE PROPER WELDING PROCEDURES-NO WARPING OR MOVING NOW!

Congratulations are now in order!

Closing the door with the STRIKER NOW hitting the body - THIS - is where and when you cut out for the striker to enter the body, NEVER cut the marks
on the body - FOR ANYTHING - These marks are guidelines only!

Once you are satisfied this piece is cut out right-the door fits correctly- well done!

#14 - FINAL STEP: Leaving your door mounted AND closed it is time for the final fitment! I use a floor jack and about a three foot long 2x4. I put the 2x4 on the jack, slide the entire assembly under JUST the rear of the body. DO NOT catch the frame or gas tank if it's installed and very slowly raise the rear of the body - A LITTLE AT A TIME - until the gap at the rear of the door closes up just right. This will also close up the gap at the rear of your rocker panel to the bottom of the door!

#15 - Satisfied with your final adjustment now mount your rear plates to the frame. Move them up tight to the body and clamp them in place--tightly--. Now either weld the plates to the frame or bold them in per the manual. (Do not attach the body to them at this time!)

Body work as needed to the doors while they are in place and now you have "Fitting" doors that any factory would be proud of!

DV
EDIT: This is the way I mount the body, feel free to follow my steps, OR do it your own way!

[wetdog]

Okay sensi, sounds good to me I have it printed and hung on garage wall .

[wetdog]

Engine in , rolling chassis, when to install cockpit bolts ?

[Double Venom]

Any time after you have mounted the body tight at least once. (The actual Firewall can be bolted in and left in place if you still want to take the body off later.) You CAN stil do the hood the same way but being a contortionist helps!

[Wisconsin_Snake]

I have a rolling chassis but reading the instructions, I don't think causes any issues just makes you have a couple more things to work around correct?

The big thing that I am confused on is step #1
#1- ONLY cut out the door panels in the body and the doors, cut out the panels in the body where the door will open into. (Cutting out the scoop is an option at this time.) Do NOT cut ANY other holes at this time.

If I cut out the throw away (for lack of better words) door panel on the body, this is the only thing that is keeping the rigidity on the body allowing me to remove it from the frame. If I cut that out, how do I take the body off without it folding like a taco to continue working on the chassis?
I can see cutting out the part that the door hinge goes into, but the door section has me confused about how I would be able to take the body off afterwards.

Also, what scoop are you referring to?

[Steve Gallegos]

I have a Backdraft with BMW suspension, when I go up a slight incline such as when I enter my driveway from the street,the front suspension makes a terrible noise like metal on metal or like the bushings are bad. Any Ideas

[Wisconsin_Snake]

I think Steve Gallegos posted in the the wrong thread....
Anyways, please read my question above his. (Would hate to have ppl read his and ignore my post which is right above) Thanks.

[Double Venom]

Wisconsin....
Funny you should mention that! I have a cobra in the shop right now that has been snapped in half

IF you have two people-never one, four is better but not needed, one on format, one on rear you can remove and replace as many times as it takes without fear of cracking the body. Leaving the pieces in and trying to fit the doors is impossible.

Any questions, please do NOT hesitate to call me. 231-869-4608 Seven days a week. Just remember I am EST please.
DV

PS...I have done this literally hundreds of times and never cracked a body!

[MotorcityCobra]

Wisconsin,

I just notched three 2x4's and wedged them front to back horizontally across the top of the cockpit opening. I've pulled my cobra body off twice now by myself (overhead hoist) with no issues. (Utilized DV's method as noted in CaptEddie's car build).

MC

[Double Venom]

And,,,that works great if you have a lift!
DV