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Need advice. Gotta pull motor
I need some advice on my 2004 CR2, 351W, Tremec 5 sp.
In preparation for the long road trip from Idaho to Ohio this summer my son and I were going through a few things, fixing the not so ideal side pipe mounts, checking out torque of all bolts etc. and we came across a starter issue, it just plumb locked up then blew up. From the previous owner, I'm #2, I did know that it had eaten at least 1 starter, 2 days before I picked it up in California, and from the looks of that unit I was concerned about debris in the bell housing and the flywheel. Well all that came to light last nite as we found metal and oil in the bellhousing and with all the other little things we have found we have decided the best approach to take care of all the problems is to pull the motor and tranny. This way we can get to all the areas that need attention and adjustments. Can, with care, engine and tranny be pulled as one unit. We have all the neccesary tools and toys so I'm not worried there I just dont want to attempt one avenue only to find out that I'm wrong. Any advice on bullet proof starters, mech fuel pumps etc. Thanks to all. Oh, did I mention the slightly bent axle shafts. Those get replaced as well. At least all this went down in my sons shop and not in the middle of Nebraska this June. |
If you can raise the rear of the car, you should be able to pull both as a unit.
-Greg |
Thanks Greg. Now that I "visualize" it I'm having a "why didn't I think of that" moment.
It makes sense. Thanks again I'll keep progress updated. Great community here on the Club. |
If you remove the hood and reais the rear, it will come out without too much difficulty.
The average home shop crane can't handle the weight with the crane fully extended. The Cobra has a long nose. You're usually better off shortening the crane, and coming in from the side. Of course, unless there's something wrong with the transmission, there's no need to remove it. |
Thinking about the trans, wouldn't you want to remove it because without the engine there, the front of it would just drop?
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Yes, it will. I just put a bottle jack under there.
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For quality mechanical fuel pumps and starters, look at robbmc. They have some real quality parts.
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Thanks Hawk for the info. I'll check them out.
Tranny is coming out due to the amount of debris in the bell housing and though it may sound odd, it will be easier to pull it all out as one. We are building a cradle to support the whole car by the frame with the rear elevated and with castors so we can pull the motor up and roll the car back. I'm also entertaining the idea of a tranny cooler and this way with the tranny out I can investigate and plumb it. Thanks one and all, so far. |
A Tremec 5 speed does not need a cooler!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Dwight |
Ahh, Watson, it seems our "investigation" is producing results.
Ok, I hear you on the cooler part. What about filtering the tranny oil? My driving here in Southern Idaho is long straight interstate/county highways and mountains with lots of shifting. Then there's the trip back to Ohio and back this summer. With the current issues I'm having I want to do everything I can to protect what I've got. Thanks Dwight for the insight. |
You don't need a cooler or a filter. You're really not working it that hard. Just drive it, and change the fluid every couple of years.
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Even though you don't need to filter or cool your trans oil, I couldn't see how you would do it anyway as the oil just sits in the transmission and is not pumped like an auto trans.
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you could plump a line into drain hole in the tranny. Pump the oil out to a cooler and back. Maybe use the fill hole as the return.
I had a pump and cooler on my GT 40 but removed it. Dwight |
We have pulled / installed over 50 motors with this crane. I extended the arm, added 130 lbs lead counterweight, reinforced the rear wheels and replaced the ram.
The largest motor / trannie I pulled was a 428 with a C-6 out of a 67 wagon. The hardest was the 427 s.o. / TKO into the CSX6000. Oil pan and cross brace was very tight. I always pull from the front. We use a engine lever. Tilt the back down as we come out. I like to pull the motor / trannie away from the car. Never tried to raise the rear end but that sounds like it would make it easier. Easy to do with two people. Three people, piece of cake! I have pulled or installed motor / trannie in FFRs, Shell Valley, Unique, , B&B, Shamrock, Lone Star (my car, a bunch of times) CSX6000, Hurricane. Coupes and Cobras. Big block and small blocks. Last week I pulled a six cylinder with auto out of Tom's '62 Rambler but that don't count. The 196 c.i. six weighted more than a 302. I did use it to pull the motor / trannie out of my RCR GT40 but I had the rear clip removed so it was very easy. Dwight http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...rebuild_4_.jpg |
2 cents:
The "adjustable tilt / angle" tool is a must have tool for pulling cobra/tranny combos! Especially from a CR! DV |
Thanks for all the input. Yeah I know I dont need a cooler and all but there is a "cool" factor to this madness of mine and I'm having fun. Besides these little things I'm doing are not going to do harm if they should fail, short of a fluid line breaking and dumping oil all over the place. I'll post pictures later.
What I have going now is, my son and I pulled the motor and tranny last nite, thanks again for the advice on getting the rear up as high as we could. Found a hole blown thru the bell housing, cast aluminium, and more fractures than California has fault lines. SCARY. Now I need a new bell housing and will be doing the clutch while in there. Step up boys and girls, reccomendations? What fits in the CR engine bay as far as Bellhousings? |
I have the McLeod bellhousing for 351W, Part Number: MCL8624
Jeff |
Regarding the McLeod bellhousing, if you use that, you will probably need to cut off the bottom lip as it will sit real low...
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You are right about the "cutoff". Without it, even small speed bumps are hard to clear.
Jewalt |
So, are there any Bell Housings that dont need trimming, explosion proof?
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