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What's the easiest way to remove the front sway bar?
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put the car on a lift, may have to remove a wheel, remove tie rod from drivers side,(that was on mine) and snake the sway bar out like a puzzle. At worst, you can cut in half with a sawzall.
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Remove radiator and support hoop if you have to, bottom of intake scoop is separate maybe not a prob
If your upgrading to coil overs and spherical rear control arm bushings keep it and keep or add rear sway bar sized to match It’s the rear rubber arm bushings binding and acting like sway bar It’s a rare piece don’t cut it One of the first 2 ZL-1s delivered to Gibb is at a Vette dealer in Beaumont Dusk blue Dickie Harrell car, cruised OKC The 70s...good times Wyatt |
I've driven past that Vette place. He sells old Vettes, and I believe restores them too. It's on HWY 90 on your way out of Beaumont. I need to stop in some time.
On my CR the shroud in the nose cone it tightly cut around the sway bar, so snaking it out will require some Houdini moves. In the rear, I do feel some binding at times. Which had me contemplating purchasing Team Z relocated uppers. I know the lower control arm will not work on these CR. |
Team Z relocate kit is the way to go. They sell parts to make lowers to match
Poly ends on the chassis, regular spherical on the rear end The Classic lower arm is 3” shorter than stock I’d leave the sway bar with the bearings instead of bushings in the rear Use a sway bar in the rear sized to work with the front Great look on your Classic that’s a sweet ride That is the other ZL-1 delivered on New Years Eve The Porterfield dragster was too Party On |
My uppers will have spherical bearings on diff and body mounts
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The Team Z Street version has the poly on the body ends
It comes that way, I think they will custom make the lowers I’m using stock rubber bushings to finish this up and get titled with what I have The hardtop roundup kinda distracted me from chassis fab Life’s good Party On |
Wow, Team Z is only 45 minutes from me, will have to stop in . Maybe get some mockups done this winter.
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Hey that’s great bring in a lower and see what they can do. Talking to them on the phone they seemed like they do lots of custom work
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It'll be great if they would be able to tell you whether their rear upper relocation kit would work on our CRII since the lowers are 3" shorter than stock.
http://www.teamzmotorsports.net/v/vs.../TZM-SB3-2.jpg |
Hello all. I removed the perch plate on the CR lowers and welded in another gusset for strength. I also replaced the CR rubber bushings with Energy Urethane as well. I have RideTech adjustible spherical uppers. looking to put QA1's all around, so trying to get specs on that now. The front suspension will be the Helix Mustang II, so I have some welding to do for that as well. Any suggestions?
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I am talking to Mike at Heidts and emailing him photos of this RCC suspension with GM calipers and 11” Century 616042 rotors . 12” rotors are the max for 16” wheels.
Notice the piece the spring top fits to the chassis, the 6” of extension on the shock rod. The springs are 350lb x 7”. Shocks are 6” with 2 1/2” stroke Mike wants track width info too so gotta bolt it together and send him the number, should be Mustang II width. The point being it’s not a bolt in and maybe Heidts has something that fits |
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Summit, Speedway probably everybody gives you one free spring return, I’m not kidding :-)
Hey this RCC was cool stuff in 98, 16” wheels were new and huge |
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