Replace pedal assembly
 

I want to replace to pedal assembly (brake and hydraulic clutch) with a more substantial assembly While at Barret Jackson I notice FF5 uses a Wilwood.

Any suggestions?

Thank you for your help

I second that.

Snakedoc
For sh$ts and giggles I purchased a Tilton 600 series firewall over hung assembly for the clutch and brake and then I got a separate throttle pedal with the throttle linkage. What I liked about it is it gives you a tremendous amount of adjustment for vertical and horizontal movement. From my rough calculations it looks like I can move the throttle pedal fairly far to the right opening up space next to the clutch to be able to put a Dead pedal stop or whatever it's called.
going to try to put this thing in over the next several weeks I'll let you know how goes

I'm putting a tilton 600 series in my EM to get more space between the pedals using there masters 5/8 front 3/4 rear 7/8 clutch super adjustable very nice check them out great tech support

Did either one of you end up using the Tilton 600 series? If so what are your thoughts on it and do you have any pictures installed?

Well I didn't go with the Tilton or Wilwood pedal assembles! We modified the CR-II pedal box for hydraulic clutch and electronic accelerator! The accelerator was no problem, the clutch was a real pain! We finally got it right but I DON'T recommend! My damn left knee still hurts! :-(

I would seriously talk to some of the FF5 guys first on the Wilwood. There is tons of complaint from racers that I know with the brakes working, but the initial pedal goes mushy to the floor, then gets better. Could be people not using "their" racing fluid. Not the first time I've heard that complaint.

I'm using the Tilton 600 pedals....

Attachment 35587


Cheers,
Glen

I did not replace the pedals on my CR. But I did use similar pedals on my Locost 7 from Wilwood. Here are a couple of photos of the install.

http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/pict...=19330&thumb=1

http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/pict...=19331&thumb=1

http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/pict...=19332&thumb=1

I had a couple of Wilwood master cylinders go bad while I was doing the clutch but I'm pretty sure it was a pedal arc problem!

Fingers Crossed, I think I got it right now and it feels good! When I get some miles on it I guess I'll know?

I have switched to the Wilwood hanging pedal assembly about 10 years ago. The original EM pedal assembly would push the shaft plunger in the master cylinder in an angle causing them to leak over time.
The Wilwood and Tilton are virtually the same with similar adjustments either will work just fine.
I have done extensive research on brakes and would recommend shooting for a 6:1 ratio. Also calculate piston area, number of pistons per caliper and foot pedal pressure. I rigged up a pressure gauge and installed on the caliper front and rear (one each) to know exactly my “ feel good” pedal pressure at the calipers. Additionally I rigged up a scale at the same angle to determine foot pedal pressure. Also I came across an excellent excel spreadsheet that will help determine master cylinder pressures. Information was also found in the 4x4 forums since they revert back to manual brakes or there systems are already manual. Sand rails cars are another source for manual brakes.

My end result was a much better, confident braking experience. If I recall correctly my pressures were 930 psi at for caliper and 850 on the rear. Keep in mind these pressures can now be easily adjusted with the Wilwood / Tilton pedal assembly since they are in a window of acceptable pressures.

I hope this helps someone.

Do you still have the spreadsheet and can you post it up so others can download it to help themselves?

Ed

I should still have it. I will look for it and will upload it.

Really Good Post Priobe!

I'll be looking for your upload as well! I went to manual brakes with my last bunch of up grades, pedal is way to heavy! I went with the master cylinder some 5.0 Mustang friends recommended. I think I need a little smaller pistons and I'm going to a an adjustable proportioning valve!

Hey Guys ... Sorry it took so long to get you the information. I am sharing a link to Google Drive so that you can retrieve some of the useful documents I used to get to my results. I am sorry it is not as easy as saying you need "X" master cylinder for front and "Y" for the rear. You really need to know your calipers and piston sizes to get to a successful result. I promise you the information is there, you just need to do a little pre-work to know what is needed. You will find a document from the the depart of transportation from the 1970s. This was needed in order to know what to expect since my car did not have a brake booster and to set a baseline.

I hope this helps and will try and help in any way:

https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...In?usp=sharing

Thanks

Slight correction about the Wilwood and the Tilton being the same. The Tiltons look to have more adjustment to the pedals, specifically 600- Series.

The mounting looks to be the same but the Tilton gives the advantage of going from a 5:1 - 7:1 adjustment. Also you can get a narrow pedal pad. This is an advantage with out narrow pedal boxes

any thoughts on these, back ordered but RPC is very much a cost effective option....

https://www.usrpc.com/product/revers...er-pedal-6-21/
https://www.usrpc.com/product/revers...nder-kit-6-21/