Hello guys, we have since revised our small block ford kits, including the 351W. We use an automatic tensioner on the slack side of the belt.

Here is a pic of our 351 Cleveland mocked up. The 351 Windsor is almost identical. Filter position can be moved with minor affects in output.

Yes, that's correct.

It may be just for the photo setup.

unless I'm missing something I'm not going to be able to install this unit. I did a cardboard cutout template got the measurements from TorqStorm.

Put it in the car and there's just no way that its going to fit disappointed because the guys over at torqstorm were really helpful and it sounds like they got a really cool unit for a fair price but I have to keep looking.

Anybody have any suggestion for a roots vein system that may work?

You mentioned earlier that you have limited hood clearance. A roots vein supercharger will add 6 inches to your engine height. You'll have to cut a hole in your hood.

Once again, Paxton. But the Supersnakes had twin paxtons and did require the hood to be cut.

I continue to assert:

1. This is going to cost way more than 5K
2. It's going to take a trained professional more than 4 days, probably 4 weeks for someone who's never done it before.

Nothing on a Cobra is ever simple.

poolAppreciate the tip.
Dont need a pro. They tend to jack things up more than their worth unless you get lucky and get a pro like some of the master builders on this forum. See some of my previous posts about GBox.
The following:
(In Jim Carrey's Ace pet detective progressively getting faster and lounder voice)
I am very capable doing this myself being a commercial GC with an A license for the last 25 years I build bldgs for a living and build cars for fun.
Installed on my Cobra myself:
-QA1s adjustable coil overs and heidts upper and lower A arms.
- Wilwood brakes all around.
- fabed myself new pedal setups
-From another cr owners post I welded new collectors to glass packs to side pipes.
-Installed 2 replacement windshields and finally a plex windshield that is amazing.
-Removed old steering R/P and replaced with a new flaming river rack and pinion
-completely fire proofed engine bay and ran all new wiring, hoses
and much much more.
...plusBuilding a 72 prerunner ground up, metal work, body, paint, suspension, built a destroked 454 bbc to a 427 that begs me to be put in my Cobra now, dont throw up because I damm well now there are others with the same situation that have thought about it too etc...etc..Built 3 mustangs over the years with installing a powerdyne SC way back in 96.Built a custom Harely and 3 superbikes.
Exhail!!!!
What I am asking is what systems are quick and effective in a CCRII before a full engine replacement that I plan on doing next year.
5k is for general kit not carb, electric fuel, larger radiator and so on.
And yes 4 days is plenty to install, tune and drive then tune, tighten, tune. And of course many weeks and months after that running through different scenarios like autocross, hot days whatever.

You have a csx car which I envy honestly but the CR has different specs for its engine compartment so although I truly appreciate your suggestion for a Paxton which I will look into I was hoping for a fellow CR owner that may provide some insight into their own setup which is why I posted in the CR sub forum.

Thanks

Just replace the engine now and be done with it. Otherwise it's 5K out the window. You might be able to sell it but the market for used bolt ons is pennies on the dollar.

Measured 12.9" from top of centerline block to cowl deck.

CC member ByronRACE has installed a Vortech in his West Coast Cobra. The blower is centrally mounted in front of the engine, requiring a remotely mounted water pump. Check out his photos at Project Ludicrous Speed - you may be able to duplicate his idea. Alternatively, perhaps the TorqStorm folks would like to create a similar mount for their blowers.

So went with torqstorm after triple check. It looks like it will work.
Other purchases:
-Quickfuel 750 blow thru carb set up by Blykins
-Full Aeromotive phantom A1000 drop in tank electric fuel system with regulator and AN deliver and return fuel lines that should handle up to 900 plus horsepower carbureted forced induction.

Btw, others in This Thread has suggested to save my money and to just go with a new engine. I am going to do this as mentioned next year. I can reuse this blower for that engine too but its my hunch after this upgrade I may not even want to replace engine. We'll see.

Wish me luck. Will report back install with pics in the next few weeks.

The only replacement for displacement is forced air or oxygenated gas. I would choose forced induction over the laughing gas, for a long term solution. I expect that you will be fairly happy with you present engine. It should hold up as long as you don't go too extreme. I expect you are right. You may not want that new engine for quite a while.

Update:

Here's a shot of the go fast goodies, torqstorm blower is in que.

*Aeromotive Phantom 340 drop in system good up to 800 plus hp carberated forced induction.

*Tilton 600 series pedal system

*Quick Fuel 750 Blow through carb with custom tuning by Brent at Blykins who was spot on with his lead time of delivery. Something unfortunately no longer common place.

Items left:
-Fuel hose think I'm going with Russel or open to suggestions.
-Tank situation. CRII have a custom tank and given that this tank is 20 plus years old putting a brand new fuel system in without ensuring that the tank is free of pin holes, rust and or sludge I'm left with do I restore tank with a system like Por-15 tank sealant or buy a whole new tank which if I do through someone like Boyds or Fuel safe. I would imagine I'm looking at 6-8 weeks for that. Using Por system I'm done in roughly 5 to 6 days.
BTW, I measure the tank at 26" across by 22" deep by 9" drop at its lowest point and then tapering to the back after apprx 5" then to apprx 3" at the rear of the car.
-Go with a hydraulic clutch or stay with clutch fork cable.

If you have a working clutch stay with it. If you do switch use a hydraulic cylinder master and slave arrangement, do not use a "throw out bearing". There are several topics on the HTOB systems, which quite a few Cobra owners have abandoned in favor of the master/slave. Use search to read those topics.

Okay thanks i will check that out.
This is the shenanigans I'm dealing with. Is there a cleaner way to do this? I mean can you say slop slop beautiful slop.

In the process of installing new fuel system I dropped tank and pulled out the sender and inspected the inside of the tank.

When I inspected the sender I noticed that there was a small amount of rust really small amount of rust at the base of the fill tube 3/4 inch up to the head of the sender so I filed that off and then there was like a drop of rust the size of a BB on the little screen not quite sure the name of it so I'm wondering does this look like it's in fair condition to put back into the tank?

The other thing I noticed when inspecting the inside of the tank was actually it was in pretty good condition I couldn't find any areas showing rust and there wasn't any sludge in the tank except LOL I dropped a bolt last year in it when fixing the lemans cap and that's surprising since I think this car was built or finished in 97 I think they started it sometime in 93.

I put a couple shots of the sender unit and also a shot of inside of the tank. Does anybody know of a good way to clean out the tank? Can I just use some just soap and water and rinse it out and then use my compressor and dry it or is this something I got to take and have it professionally heat soaked. From inspecting the tank I really don't think I need to do the heat soak but figured I'd ask. Thanks guys!

There must be a better way - in the left photo it looks like there's interference between the cable and the bellhousing, and the way the return spring it attached it could fail at any time. That also looks like a pretty light spring - perhaps a throttle return spring?

Here are couple pictures

Let me try this again.

Yes!! What the heck. Any suggestions?