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Haven’t posted in a bit. Finished the brakes, clutch cable, steering, throttle cable and pedals. Took it for a spin around the yard in the “go cart” form. That was fun! I put the body on just to mock up the seats and roll bars and check fitment of everything else. Going to try to finish the roll bars tomorrow. They are just sitting in there now. They will need to come up a bit and be made to meet the frame behind the seats. I’ll post pics when they’re done.
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You're making great progress! I'm watching your build closely. I'm going to start mine this winter.
What pedals did you use? I don't have the pedal box for a standard with my kit, so I'll have to use an aftermarket set or one from a donor. Not exactly sure what I'll do there, cable or hydraulic, floor mount, hung, reverse res... What kind of clutch cable, throttle, master cyl? |
Thanks! I am trying to keep it moving forward. I used the original pedal box. Actually I have an extra if you want it. I can send it to you. I don’t have extra pedals, but you are welcome to it to try. So I used the kit pedals. I went Mustang cable for the clutch. I had to modify the clutch pedal to accept the cable and added a cable adjuster. I used a Lokar throttle cable and linkage. I again had to modify the throttle Pedal rod to accept the cable. I got the master cylinder from Orielly’s. It’s for a 69 Corvette. Part number NMC11410. It’s a disc/disc master. I can take some pics of the pedal assembly if you’d like me to.
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AC Cobra FB page, I've seen headers and side pipes for sale recently for $450. With a little fab work, they should fit your CR. Your set up will leave your huevos poached on a long run.
I might still have my CR bumperettes somewhere, since I had a set of quick jacks made for my CR. |
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If you can weld, or know of a good welder, cut and add a small section to the muffler/baffle tube. The $450 is about half price of a new set. I've also seen other sets for sale on that FB site.
I'll look trough my parts for the bumperettes. |
I would defiantly love to see some pics. The pedal box, if a standard, might be useful in figuring out my set up. I'm going to pull a set from a foxbody too. I think I'm going to run a cable system and upgrade the clutch quadrant and throw out while I'm at it. I'm going to run a single piston gm caliper in the front, and SN95 disc brakes in the rear. I'll PM ya with my info
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https://scontent-hou1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...2d&oe=6163E2B1
Fabbing headers out of stainless for the Coyote engine. Next is getting rid of the 20 plus year old suspension for some Heidts tubular A arms. |
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Perfect on the arms. They will go great with your Heidts 58” IRS :cool:
With 74ProII and eaks there are 6 CR builds/ rebuilds happening. That’s a lot Anybody have sway bar diameters you can post? Party On |
OOOOOHHHHHH, another Coyote. Interesting you went with the Mustang mounts vice the F150 ones. I would be very interested in those header dimensions, as I will not to do so as well. Any more pics? Yes I noticed your Alt mount set up.
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The frame had to be modified some to allow the hood lid to close all the way. The coyote is all heads, so the mounting points had to be lowered just a little. The alt is from a tractor, and it had to be reversed mounted since it's original location was down below. Also, that let me keep the original belt configuration.
I had to refab the drivers side header, since it was made a few inches to long, and the pipe placement angle was wrong. Just part of the long list of of things the builder screwed up. Fabbing the headers all depends on your engine placement on the chassis. https://scontent-hou1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...74&oe=616AB3A8 |
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https://scontent-hou1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...b7&oe=616D5B0D
The coyote motor will need to be shoed in on an angle to allow the steering rods, and links to get past the headers on the passenger side. Stick with the Oval Blues ECM. My builder went with Holley...I hate it, nothing but an expensive over priced pain in the ass, prostate deep. https://scontent-hou1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...33&oe=616CB776 Here you can see the room needed where the alternator use to be. The steering rack had to be moved over about an inch and a half to get it to line up. If I had a do over, I'd go the 363 strocker route with 550 to 580hp. More than enough for this feather weight car. |
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https://www.ultimateclassiccars.com/ I found the bumperettes. The trunk handle, I've no clue where that went. I didn't use it, went with a clean shaved look. https://scontent-hou1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...66&oe=614C5810 https://scontent-hou1-1.xx.fbcdn.net...82&oe=614B5C78 |
[quote=markantioch;1497236]Try them for side pipes. If you still want to go that route.
https://www.ultimateclassiccars.com/ I found the bumperettes. Mark. Thanks! I sent you a PM about the bumperetts. On the trunk, I just fabbed a mount to use an original style handle mechanism. On the pipes, I think I’m going to stay with the under car for now. If it doesn’t work out, I can always change it. |
I knew it would be similar length wise . I may go the "j pipe" method. Thanks for the pics. I already have Mustang mounts, was planning on modifying F150 mounts. The alt relocation is very similar to the "Power by the Hour" unit. That pic makes it look the radiator looks notched.
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When your motor is ready, drop er in the frame, and place the body back on the frame. Then take note of where ya need to make room for whatever is in the way. |
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