Body Mounting

[brandonF]

I'm ready to mount my body, and want to get some opinions.
I remenber DV saying to mount the middle of the body, lineup the doors to to the front of the door opening. Then adjust the rear of the body to match the rear of the doors. I can't seem to find that post.

Do you guys just follow the instruction, and use the self tapping screws, or do you think it is better to tap the holes in the frame and use a machine screw (1/4-20 1/4-28). I was thinking tap the frame.

Any comments or suggestions would be great.

Thanks

[dscott]

This is how I do it. I set the body on the frame and check to make sure it's resting flush on the front fender liners, the out rigger, and across the frame member under the package tray. If it doesn't sit flush you need to check and see what's hanging it up. Sometimes the bolts that go through the hood latch box interfere with the lip on the defroster plenum. Also check that the body is down tight on the cowl bar. If it all looks good I center the front clip and attach the mounting bolts in the location in the manual. It is a good idea to tap the holes for 1/4 threads and use a larger fender washer to disburse the load. I then proceed to attach the body along the door sill floor and package tray. Finally at the rear I raise the body about a 1/2 " so it isn't resting on the tank or the bumper attaching points and use the brackets to secure it.

I have never seen that raising or lowering the rear clip makes any difference with the door gap. It usually sets the rear of the body at a different height so you have to fill the front to match.

To attach the doors I remove the mounting plate from the cowl bar. A sawsall will work. I then loosely attach the plate to the door hinge which you should have already mounted to the door. I set the door in the opening, set the gap so it is equal (or as close as you can get it), I use shims and duct tape to hold it in place, swing the latch plate back in position (make sure you tighten all the bolts once the plate is in position). Then have it welded in place. Once you remove the tape and shims the door should be almost perfect.
Don

[sam-tip]

After reading this I am a little worried. If I read this correctly you want us to cut the hinge mount out of the cowl bar. Attatch it to the door. Then place the door where it looks good and weld it back into the cowl bar. I assume this works best. But this isn't in the manual. I have been reading the manual all week so I may attach the body this week end. I trust your advise but this is not what I expected.

I does sound faster than play with different shims.

Thanks
Doug

[Double Venom]

Doug,

Basically the same as Don, but of course not the same. Go with what works for you. The post you're referring to was in fact an answer to the same question. I can't find it either so I will reiterate the way we do it. First and foremost, Yes, cut the hinge plates out of the cowl bar. Trust me on this one, it will save you hours later on!

Assemble your front hood hinge, leaving the slide bushings loose. Assemble your hinges and attach to the doors.

Install the rubber insulation strips to the frame. Install body to the frame, move forward as far as possible and square up as much as possible. I do leave the rear of the body loose at this point, let it simply hang, no damage will result.

Drill and tap 3 holes (we always use 1/4x20 and then use the washers) on the top of the door sills. Start from the cowl bar back, about an inch and a half, then center, then about 1 1/2 inches forward from the back. Do NOT install or tighen the last or rear ward bolt yet.

Do this on both sides. Now take either door with hinge installed very tight. Place the door in the opening and adjust only the front edge, front top and bottom front for your best fit. IF the door still wants to sit low at the front tighten the sill bolts a little, drawing the body down. If the doors want to go high, then loosen a little. I've done this by myself many times but three guys and a MIG welder make it real easy. Remember you are working on three planes. Two guys will hold the door in place, again getting the best alignment you can on the front -top-edge-and bottom. Make sure the hinge plate is forced into place. (Some trimming may be needed,) Once you are satisfied, tack the plate in place with 3 to 4 good tack welds. This is where I take a floor jack and a 2x4 about two feet long, put it under the rear of the body and lift the entire rear up to close up the rear door gap.

Leaving the jack in place I then drill three 1/4x20 tapped holes on the INSIDE of the sills, spaced evenly between the top bolts. Install these bolts NOW.

Now slide under the car and install the rear trunk plates by forcing them up very tight to the trunk and the frame, being carefull not to lift the rear of the baody any higher. Now you can bolt, rivet or as we do, weld the plates to the frame.

Assuming you haven't installed your motor yet, now is a great time to install your hood and hood latch. Mount your hood and latch, close the hood. Crawl inside with your assembeld hood latch box, latch the two together and drill and mount you latch box to the body. Make sure you are still in alignment, tighten your hinges. Lift the hood and get back to work!

Now you can remove your body for body and paint work! Leave the hinges bolted to your doors! Now when you reinstall, install the top sill bolts first, tighten evenly on both sides, all three bolts. BUT only tighten until the bolts coming in from the sides line up perfectly. Once they do, you know that you have now replaced your body to the exacting points you had when you first aligned your doors.

Mount the rest per the book.
Good Luck fella- holler if you need us!
DV