Club Cobra - That other guy named Ed and DVs CRII build

Club Cobra (http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/)

- Classic Roadsters II (http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/classic-roadsters-ii/)

- - That other guy named Ed and DVs CRII build (http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/classic-roadsters-ii/87654-other-guy-named-ed-dvs-crii-build.html)

The Old-Auto set up-brake only.
New:
http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...ls_Resized.jpg

Wilwood With Mike Fortes goodies-brackets,new clutch, T-5, Bell housing, etc. :)

Those are some good looking pedals and reservoirs. Where are you going to mount the reservoirs. What are the white plastic cups between the pedal assy and the reserviors? Keep us informed on the progress of your new toy.

OK,
First of all the firewall has to be repaired and strengthened due to the large cut outs for the CR pedal assembly and booster. On the inside of the firewall I plan on using a 10 ga. piece of aluminum, having it formed/bent to match the top and front of the firewall. Since the Wilwoods actually bolt through the firewall this will be more than ample to support any Heavy Footed driver!

1. After the new plate is installed the pedal assy's get bolted. Then the master cyl's get mounted to the pedals, THE PLASTIC CAPS are then installed with compression bands on the MC's. They receive the fluid from the Billett containers, then to the clutch MC and wheel cylinders via stainless braided lines.

Piece of cake :)
Mounting the reservoirs - stay tuned for that one!???

Almost all modifications are ready for the new pedal/brake-clutch system. I am going to have to change the Hood Prop rod to the right side of the car to allow the hood to close and miss the new hydraulic (Forte's - wow!) reservoirs. (All Billet and beautiful.)

Clutch fork has finally arrived. Time to document and finish the new system then get this World Class T-5 with dual diaphragm clutch with hydraulics working. Will have to remove the "Dead-Mans" pedal as no room for both the Wilwood pedals an it!

Major Upgrade, especially if you are from the "Old School!" C-4 may be faster but certainly isn't as much fun as running through the gears manually!
DV

Sounds like capteddies Cobra is coming back to life.. Can't wait to see what the finished product looks like. Keep the photos and updates coming as I'm sure quite a few of our members are keeping an eye on this phoenix. I also notices the cobra was setting a little high. Have you lowered the car also so it has a more mean stance? Keep us posted, my friend.

and removed or paint the Fire Engine Red sway bars ??? :3DSMILE:

.

Not re-adjusted the suspension yet! Ed's a big guy so we have it sitting a little high but it did settle right down when he was in it.

Cobra Dan :) think we're going to keep rear sway bar red! It's powder coated and a nice job of it too! :3DSMILE:

DV

DV,

I am really looking forward to seeing the slave setup for the clutch. Keep us posted when you can.

Try and stay warm.

Soon as I get out of here, get pretty for the night (So the wife wont make me sleep in the shop again!) then upload what pictures I have to date. Geesh, more roll bars,roll bar parts, gas wells, hood scoop, clutch parts! And the Dr. asked me if I was still "Working Out" when I had my physical yesterday! :rolleyes:

Terry,
I'm using Mike Forte's slave and brackets...and I thought I WAS good. this guy has it all together!

DV

OK, I laz'd Boy after dinner and crashed! Didn't have time until now to try and post the following - here goes:

This is the 10ga. stainless plate I made to support the brake & clutch MC's - Mounted on the inside of the firewall

[IMG]http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...m/S6302606.JPG[/IMG]

Billett / Reservoirs Pre Mounted:

[IMG]http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...m/S6302607.JPG[/IMG]

This one is hard to make out. It is about a 10"x10" fiberglass piece that I fiberglassed to the inside of the fender. I then cut a piece of 1/8th'' steel about 12"s long x1/2" wide. Mounted it behind the new plate and the fender flange, then bolted it in tight. this should take care of any sagging or vibration of the reservoirs. (Photo's don't show it but this piece was sanded, primed and painted the color of the car.

[IMG]http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...m/S6302609.JPG[/IMG]

Mike (Forte) supplied Straight fittings for the reservoirs but due to my mounting I used 90' fitting- this is the way I set them up.

[IMG]http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...m/S6302614.JPG[/IMG]

http://[img]http://www.clubcobra...m/S6302614.JPG[/IMG]

Reservoirs finally mounted - hoses still loose.

[IMG]http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...m/S6302616.JPG[/IMG]

Did the best I could on this photo. Shows the reservoirs in relation to the M/C's.

[IMG]http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...m/S6302618.JPG[/IMG]

And last BUT not least the inside of the trunk lid repaired, fiberglassed, painted and a stainless plate installed with Welded nuts for the license plate and holder.

[IMG]http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...m/S6302613.JPG[/IMG]

Hope my last 4 hours helps someone!
DV

Looking good Chief. Keep up the good work. :3DSMILE:

Before I get inundated with questions/PM's, I do have to move the ratcheting hood prop to the right side of the car. As it is, the shaft will hit the reservoirs keeping the hood from closing fully. Trying to think if I should remove the "jack-nuts" from the left side in case the future owner should ever want to use them -OR- should I just pull the nuts out and fill them in??

Thoughts?

DV

I would just leave them there DV. Maybe install a couple of pan head screws in them.