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A couple of pics, i couldn't upload because of size:
http://s276.photobucket.com/albums/kk5/gggoad/Cobra/ |
ggg,
Unless some body has chopped the frame and body (one apparenly has been by a private owner) it is not a CR's. DV |
I just looked at your pictures. Very interesting.....it appears it could be a CR at first glance but the rocker panel is at least twice the size as a normal Cr, the bumper hoop would be rare to say the least-I have only seen one for a CR since '79.
The front bumper tubes 'appear' to be half the diameter of a CR but can't tell for sure. The Lemans cap is posistioned way farther back than a stock CR. It does appear to have the inner rear shelf behind the seats which most Cobras don't have. The doors at the top front are cut per a CR but the width, from top to bottom, especially in the rear is much to small where the extra wide rocker has taken a lot of room. The 3-point roll bar looks the same, but appears to be much higher than a stock one-depends on how it mounts. If that is a handle at the bottom of the trunk lid it may have been added but did not come with the kit. There is no glove box in the dash which is standard on a CR. No stainless steel vents which were also standard on a CR? I would have to say it certainly looks like a CR that has been 'nicely scrunched' but I don't believe with what I am seeing that it is a true CR. AND.. a correction, if I said it was a 94" wheel base- I was WRONG..actually, center front weel to center of rear wheel is : 96"s on a CR. Prove me wrong! I want to know. DV |
DV, thanks for taking a look. I have no idea, I only got the idea of it being a CR because of the center hood latch. Perhaps the title may reveal something, but the guy swears it was titled as a 1964 Ford Cobra?? I was also told that the car has some original 427 peices on it; gas cap, mirror, etc. Don't know if any of that is true. I don't believe the car has been chopped. Any advice for determining anything about it at this point?
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I just did a side by side shot of my CR and gggoad's. Looks compleatly different. The nose, flair in the front fenders, doors, the distance and shape between the back of the doors and the body, the back area behind the seat is shorter and the space between the bumper bolts, just to name a few.
What ever brand it is, it is a nice looking car. We here on CC should be able to figure this out sooner or later. Put up more pictures when you can. Cockpit, trunk, engine compartment, as many frame pictures as you can get. Terry |
Damn, this is a good one. Center hood latch with a pull cable inside is usually a strong indication it is a CR?
If you can, take pictures of the inside of the Hood at the latch, Wheel tubs from the engine side Trunk floor pan Trunk hinge Hood hinge Firewall;- as close as you can but get the entire wall in the picture A title is NOT the MSO! Many older cars were "misrepresented" illegally by the way, to be an early series ford. This has now become highly illegal in most states. It should be titeled as the year that the MSO was printed-period. Getting a fake title from "Titles Unlimited" -Arkansas, and now in jail was a main provider for fake titles that were simply switched when the owner registered the car in his state is not valid in most states now. Arizona, possibly Mi. will exccept an earlier title but will have you get a new seriel nunber-vin plate (from them) and it will start all over. The original MSO is the only way to be safe, or transferring a title that came about from the original MSO. Definately not an "Excaliber!" (CR's copy.) Made in England or Austraila by chance? Definately not likely a Canadian copy or a Mexican copy. Absolutely not FFR, or a West Coast, Mid States, Unique or ERA ??? Hmmmmmm? DV |
DV, I'll do my best to get those pics posted this weekend. In OK, when you take the MSO and the vehicle to the tag agent (I have done this with some custom HD's) the agent issue a "Oklahoma Assinged Vin" this number has to be stamped and placed on the vehicle. This car has this Vin on the firewall, so it has been registered (last in 2002).
Thanks to all for taking an interest - I really appreciate it. |
It could have been a classic roadster, but some things just don't look quite right to me. It is a very nice car no matter which brand it is. But as tcrist said, when I look at the one I had and this one, there are several things that don't look quite the same about the body. I changed my collectors from the 4 pipes to one big elbow type and gained some power by doing that. I also had a special roll bar made and had the hoops on the front and back of mine, but the body was not changed.
http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d.../Cobra_331.jpg Ron :) |
ggg,
Excellent, seems OK. is doing it the way it meets federal guidelines-hoo-ray! Ron, thanks for the side shot....tells a lot! Look at the differcence in the rocker panels and the rear at the bottom of the doors- Ron, you got rid of that beautifull car? I must admit, this one has me :( . I can be had but darn! DV |
ggg here are your pictures......good luck!!!!!!!!!
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91 CR "Factory" build.
DV (or anyone):
How could I find out the color name and number for my Cobra that was built by CR in 91? It is the standard(?) red with white stripe. Any idea what color of red and white they were using in Fargo in 91? I need to do some touch up. Thanks Jim in KY |
in need of assistance
I recently inherited a Classic Roadster II cobra from my late father who had the vehicle built from himself I have been reviewing the pile of paperwork which he has but did not come across a manual for the vehicle. is there anyone who could provide me with a copy or get me in contact with someone who could get me the assembly manual?
e-mail DRRAD17@gmail.com |
DV/All, I posted some more pics of the Cobra on Photobucket.
http://s276.photobucket.com/albums/kk5/gggoad/Cobra/ |
OK. I no expert, but here's what doesn't look CR to me.
The tranny tunnel looks a lot different than mine. The firewall is not even close and where the wiper posts come through the body looks to wide apart. Now that being said. My CRII is one of the last ones to come out of Don's place in MN. It has the newer frame with the dropped seat pans and the body had gone through a few refinements in the molds. my $0.02 :) |
The doors on the red cobra in the pictures are not CR, nor is the engine bay
area opening (the corners aren't CR), for starters. Trunk looked a lot different too. |
Gents, I believe it is safe to say the car is definately NOT a CR. The only thing that led me down that path was the hood latch. Anyone have any idea who did make this kit?
Also, could anyone give me recommendation on the coil over springs? Does 325 front and 150 rear sound correct? |
ggg,
I have pro shock coil overs. 250 rears and 500 fronts. Keep in mind I have a big iron block. They work great. I am driving street. It really depends on your block being big or small and where you plan to drive, either race track or street. It gets much more technical than that and there are others here who can help you out better than I. John |
I guess I should have mentioned that! The car has a 351 Windsor in it now. If I can ever get it to drive right I am thinking a twin turbo LS might be in the works for this winter though. I know that may be sacreligous but we have had a lot of fun with those motors.
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Nothing wrong with a LS engine, but be warned that:
1) it will devalue the car 2) make the car harder to sell (many will walk away or low ball you on price). 3) you will hear many disapointed oh sounds when people realize what is in it. As the owner of a SB car, people who know what a 427 Cobra is, always ask "does it have a 427 in it?" They are always dissappointed but try not to show it. I can only imagine it would be worse with a Chevy in it. If your skin is thick and none of this bothers you, go for it. |
Ok, so the title did not help. It is titled as a 1994 Ford Cobra?? Previous owner spent a great deal of time trying to figure out who made the kit with no luck as well.
On the up side I did drive the car about 70 miles yesterday and had a blast. It's exactly like riding a Harley, only your sitting in it. I think I am going to leave the drivetrain as is - car works great. Only real problem is you feel EVERY thing in the road in the steering wheel. Every crack, dip, bump, etc. If the highway is glass smooth the car drives amazing. I should say, I understand you SHOULD feel some road in this car - but you feel everything, and it is rather harsh. You have to grip the wheel pretty hard to keep it from shaking. Any ideas? |
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