Wanting a new Cobra in the best way from PA
 

I am currently deciding (as most of you have already done) what color, what engine, and what options to get in a brand new Cobra. Not to open this up too much, but is the Roush 427SR-TW worth the extra $3-$4k vs. the Ford Racing 427? I rode in and drove a car with the Ford motor and I was impressed. Is there anything that makes the Roush $4k more superior?

Also, does anyone have a happy story for titling in PA? I contacted an auto tag place and it seems that may be the way to go

Motor wise, it's all in the torque at low end that you are feeling. Come up to see me and I'll show you the difference between a big block and a small block and the power differences and power bands of both so you can be better informed. Also, I have two cars for sale here in PA ;) already legally titled, see my sig line. My advice is a big block, but that is my personal choice unless you expect to do road racing in which case ma hot small block will do. Do not get caught up in the "I need 500HP" in one of these cars, as 200HP is enough to get you killed..........A cobra is unlike any car you have ever owned in the past, not one of them will ever come close to a cobra in handling.................Titling, go to the state MVS web site and download the MV426B form. Make sure you have side pipe covers, and all lights and glass are DOT approved........After that, piece of cake.......And emissions exempt too boot..........




Bill S.

Best way to start
 

I agree with Bill on the big block. My preference also. A few hundred horses in a little short car is plenty and a LOT different than in any other vehicle.
The site will also direct you to the "offical approved state inspection" site in your area. I feel it would be a good move to check with some of the local rod builders in the area to find the inspection site that may be better to work with.
I was fortunate that here in Lancaster County one of the two sites was a mile from me and the person(she) was fantastic.

I think a trip to see Bill would be well worth your time if for no other reason than you can sit and ride in both versions. Bill can explain to you all the pro's and con's of owning a Cobra. One of the more obvious pro's is that for some reason hot girls really gravitate to these things. Just look at some of the pictures that have been posted as well as the stories that have been told. My wife was jealous for awhile but she understands now. :)

Clois

I logged about 100 miles this weekend in the red car with the new Ford Racing 427... just got off the phone with Ford and ordered some more. Bang for the buck is tops right now.

Funny how an honest question about 1 engine vs. another engine becomes a classified ad?

;)

On registration I suggest you go down and meet the enhanced inspection center you plan to use, see if they have done one of these cars before, ask them what they want to see on the car.

In PA the 2 things that get thrown in there sometimes are the overrider bumpers instead of quickjacks and a defroster. See if they want either.

Pot, kettle, black :p:D:LOL:

Quick jacks will pass, but the demister vents must be present, they do not have to be working, but they must be on the dash, go figure:rolleyes:

Edit: Call the enhanced inspection station that is closest to you, ask if they will inspect the kit cars, some of the enhanced stations do not here in PA.


Bill S.

Actually it's nice to finally get to this discussion... but a little different since:

A.) Paid advertiser.
B.) I've already met Ray and he seemed pretty happy with what we have to offer.

It's fine, but he was looking for something else... **)

Dare me to install vents but with no actual cutouts below them? :eek:

Here is something else to consider.....Ford is going to offer and aluminum 427 small block in about 60 days with 575 HP. I've seen the engine but not the price yet....**)

We've been advised that it will be about $3k difference in price and the power levels have been revised down to the same as the iron block at 535HP. I will say the engines we have installed so far seem like they are being conservative on the power levels. Realistically you probably will see 550ish at the crank for these.

We have a test mule / inventory car now that I am extremely happy with. And several more of these engines sold and on order. There have been some delays in getting them, but the wait has been worth it so far.

Some pictures (we did it up with a Turkey Pan we cross developed with Master Touch and a Kirkham Billet Tank):

http://www.vintage-motorsports.com/a.../adg.sized.jpg

http://www.vintage-motorsports.com/a.../adf.sized.jpg

http://www.vintage-motorsports.com/a.../acm.sized.jpg

http://www.vintage-motorsports.com/a.../ack.sized.jpg

http://www.vintage-motorsports.com/a.../aem.sized.jpg

In Roush land they have a new offering called the 427SRX that is supposed to bridge the gap in price difference between the 402R and the 427R. I have not ordered or installed one. There are some changes going on at Roush that I hope will bring us more options and better values.

Maybe with just a small amount of silicon that could easily be removed.....;)

$3-4$K difference between the two, if that is the case Ford no question, Wow!!! The smart move if you desire the highest level in customer service is a Keith Craft 427 if you want small block stroked to 427. He also has a big block special right now.

I see alot of KC motors in $100k plus Kirkhams, and Keith actually answers the phone and returns messages.

The best warranty hands down is one you will never need or use.

Ah, the first answer to my question. I appreciate the advice. What's the cost of a KC?

More choices. Thanks Jay. It seemed like such an easy decision a month ago. What to do, what to do? Oh, got the farmer thing. I get it.

KC has as many choices is as out there. make sure to check his website or better yet call him. His assssss is on the line on every engine he sells, it aint some guy working for a company at an hourly rate. The engine which is direct competion for the ford 427 and Roush 427 is:

427 SBF Street/Performance Crate Engine - $11,795.00
Horsepower: 580 hp
Torque: 565 ft/lbs
Block: Fully Machined and Prepped Dart Sportsman Block
Crankshaft: Scat or Eagle 4340 Steel Crankshaft
Stroke: 4.000”
Connecting Rods: Scat or Eagle H-Beam 6.250"
Pistons: Mahle
Timing Chain: Ford Motorsport Double Roller
Camshaft: Comp Cams Custom Grind Hyd Roller
Lifters: Ford Motorsport Hyd Roller
Cylinder Heads: CNC AFR 205
Valves: SI One Piece Stainless 2.08/1.6
Rocker Arms: Scorpion 1.6 Roller
Intake: Edelbrock Victor Jr
Waterpump: Edelbrock Aluminum
Carburetor: Quick Fuel 780cfm
Valve Covers: Keith Craft Logo w/Breathers and PCV Valve
Wire Looms: Smoothie
Oil Pump: Melling High Volume
Oil Pan: Moroso or Canton
Balancer: Professional Products
Ignition: MSD Distributor w/Keith Craft Logo Moroso Plug Wires
Gaskets: Felpro
Fasteners: ARP
Compression: 10.5:1
Fuel: Premium Unleaded Only
Firing Order: 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8
Timing: 35 Degrees @ Full Advance
Oil: 10w-30 or 40 Non-Synthetic for Break-In
Max RPM: 6250
Dyno: Complete Test and Tune on SF902 Dyno
Price: $11,795.

I have also driven some big blocks and they had nice torque on the low end, what was missing on the ones I drove was the blistering acceleration above 4500 rpm, the stroked 427's seem to explode above 4Krpms. The big blocks acceleration appears linear where the small block is exponetial.

Now go with a KC 482 with 600 plus hp I think you would have the best of both worlds if you did not kill yourself.

Might want to call Eric at Performance Engineering also, he builds some nice motors at competive prices.

I have learned at times when dealing with corporations the guy / gal on the other end does not have the same equity into the deal as the business owners themselves. I am led to beleive if you call with a problem you are not going to be talking to Henry Ford or Jack Roush, maybe, but I doubt it. You call KC or Eric at performance engineering you will be talking to them, the guys that can make a decision in an instant. No other approval required. Look what vendors post and supports on this forumn.
BDR = Cashburn
SPF's = Vintage Upgrades / Mustang Ranch / Keith Craft
Engines = Keith Craft

I maybe wrong but I dont think the difference in price between the Roush and Ford is $3-$4K. The Roush as I see comes complete with carb, pulleys, and alot of billet aluminium components and is dyno tested. The big difference I see is Roush uses the Dart block which is a very stout block in my opinion with tons of meat to bore. I have no clue on the FMS. KC engine mirrors the roush engine on many of the components but I am sure each company has their own differences.

I am seeing more of a $2K price difference, but then again I am just guessing.

Madmaxx, Thanks for the info. I got some studying to do.

Depending on how you configure the FMS 427 it will come out $3 - 4k less installed in a BDR. The $1k swing is if you decide to do some form of polished package on the engine and components, then the price difference is on the 4ish side. Of course you won't have the heads polished or the exact same level of components like billet wire looms BUT you will have a very stout engine (this is built off the new Boss 351 Block, it is very nice).

Warranties are a little different as well 1 year vs. 2 years. You can look at this 2 different ways, either you have another year of coverage OR realize most engine failures due to faulty components happen sooner rather than later.

There is something to be said for name recognition should you decide to ever sell one of these. Also, should you find yourself in a repair situation there is definitely a benefit to having a dealer network.