Should you ever decide to race the car, even in a novice class, you will likely not pass tech inspection with a bottom fuel supply line. Also, one of the reasons tanks are mounted with straps is to allow a bit of flex of the chassis without stressing the tank welds.

Can the tank be removed with the trunk in place?
Looks like the bolts would turn.
Larry

Thanks for the feedback. That's what the forum is for.

It's not too late to add a top fed sump tube down to the bottom of the tank. Also, my concern about the rigid mounted tank not providing any flex.

Larry - your correct. No way to get to the bolt heads when the trunk tub in in place.

Needs to be grounded too.

Need to regroup on this one.

It's a nice tank for sure! You might want to look at welding those bolts in so the tank could be removed if needed. Might need to get to the sender for service or any other reason the tank may need to come out. Just a thought.
Larry

Yep, I wish Santa would bring me one of those tanks. You could spot weld the bolt heads like Larry suggests and then use some rubber or nylon washers between the tank and rails, and then use locknuts. So you get it snug enough to stay put but its not hard mounted. If I were doing it again I would have cut the floor out of the trunk tub and finished it in aluminum like the original cars. With a removable trunk floor things would sure be easier to access.

Tank Info
 

Russ
Getting ready to change my tank also. I didn't care for the bottom outlet. You can get a top port fitting that can be mod'ed to the tank. Go to Tanks, Inc and search their accessories. They have the top port and also a flange the same size as the fuel sender. You can drill the tank to accept it.

As far as mounting, you should either use the straps to allow it to be dropped at a later time; or weld the nuts to the steel bracket so you can remove the bolts without a wrench on the nut. That top side of the mounting bracket is not accessible when the body is installed

Paul

I agree, using straps and some good "cushing" on the ends of the tank might prevent the alum. from cracking out from jaring and road vibration. It will also be easier to be removed later on if it's strapped in place, although I could be wrong. Good luck, I'm going to the alum. tank if my plastic tank ever stats leaking again.
Bill

Thanks guys.

I like the idea of spot welding the bolt heads so the nuts can be removed from below. I have some thick flat rubber sheet that could be put between the frame and tank. Maybe 1/8" or 1/4" rubber strip the full length on both sides would be enough to allow movement of the tank during flex.

I'll look into the top port fitting from Tanks, Inc. I also have the option of welding the top sump tube in. We have a complete machine shop at work that does aluminum welding and fabrication. Usually cost me a 12 pack of beer for something like that.

I had already planned on an access cover on the trunk tub for the sending unit.

Dang Russ, I realize we sorta poo-poo'd your build thread here. These are the fun things that comes with building your own car. Keep up the good engineering and keep posting pics. I promise we won't pick on you too much.

Happy Thanksgiving.

Right on ! the best thing about putting one of these little bad boys together is your opportunity to be creative and hopefully design a better light bulb. Enjoy all the input and idea's from all of us, and do what the heck you want to do. Remember, most of us wish we were building our cars again so we could make the improvements that you are making right now.
Good Luck and have fun, Bill

First, congrats on your car!!!

If you have any questions shoot me a pm and I will give you a hand if I can. I have tons of pictures. I was going to send them direct to you but I had some technical difficulties so Steve has the them know for any of you that might need them.

As for the new tank, I installed mine after the trunk tub was installed. You can get a wrench in there to hold the nut. I did it. I also used the straps just as a back up.

Can't wait to follow your build. Sent you a PM

Mark

Thanks to everyone that have provided comments. The comments and suggestions are all appreciated.

All the pictures you posted on your HM-2002 build have been very useful and appreciated as well.

Did you hard mount the tank to the angle iron brackets that are welded to the frame? I think the concern with hard mounting the tank is there is no give if the frame flexes any. Stresses on the tank and/or welds might cause a failure at some point. My thoughts are to use rubber between the tank and the angle iron brackets. Either 1/8" strip or 1/4" (2 layers). Right now I have 5 bolts on each side. Not sure could get to the bolt heads with the trunk tub installed so will weld the heads. Tank fits up from the bottom and can get to the nuts. Still undecided on the straps whether they are needed even as a backup with 10 bolts holding the tank in. The welded bolts will also help with grounding using some external tooth lock washers between the nuts and tank.

Slave Cylinder
 

I know there has been alot of discussion on slave cylinders on this forum and a number of different installations both good and bad. I bought a bracket from Mike Forte that is designed specifically for the TKO transmissions. It was fab'd from stainless steel and bolts to the side of the trans. I powder coated it before installation. Other than that, no mods were made. It came from Forte with the CNC slave cylinder, rod, mount for fork and bolts.
http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d.../P9260387R.jpg
I used a generic fox body fork with the pivot on the passenger side. The mount for the heim joint was supposed to bolt to an existing hole in the cluth fork. I drilled a second hole just to make sure it was secure. BTW, the fork is extremely hard and takes some time to drill the hole without tearing up drill bits. Mounted it with some 5/16" flat head bolts. Here's another look.
http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d.../P9260388R.jpg
I welded a bracket normally used for brake lines to the frame to attach the hard line and the flex line. The adapter is a 3/16" inverted flare to -3 AN. Put a 90 deg 1/8"NPT to -3 AN adapter on the CNC slave cylinder. Put a piece of stainless steel flex tubing to connect everything. Seems like a very neat installation. Had to adjust the fork pivot to leave a small adjustment for the slave rod before putting the bell housing on. Otherwise, the slave rod stuck out farther than I wanted.
http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d.../P9260389R.jpg
BTW, the clutch master cylinder is a 7/8" Wilwood and the CNC slave is 7/8". Seems to work fine although the car isn't on the road yet.

Fuel Tank Rework
 

After all the comments on the mounting of the fuel tank, I made the following mods: 1) welded nuts to the frame to allow the bolts to be removed from the bottom 2) installed 1/4" rubber strips between frame and fuel tank to allow some movement during any frame flex 3) drilled larger thru holes on tank to allow movement and 4) installed bolts with safety wiring. I haven't decided if the straps are necessary or not.

Here is a pix of the frame with the bolts welded. The frame has 1" angle iron for the mount for the tank.
http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d.../PC310260R.jpg

A pix of the 1" wide x 1/4" thick rubber strip. Obtained from McMaster Carr. Holes are punched. This is a medium hard rubber.
http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d.../PC300257R.jpg

And a pix of the installed tank showing the rubber strip. The bolts are the original ones for now and will be swapped out when the safety wire bolts arrive (and of course add the safety wire). Will torque the bolts so they snug up but not overly tight so will allow some movement if necessary.
http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d.../P1010265R.jpg

Thanks for everyone's comments. Keep them coming.

Russ

Nice work Russ. Thanks for the pics and updates.

Looks like it will work just fine to me.
Larry

Should do the trick, along with the straps too, that tank isn't going anywhere.
Nice work, Bill

Master Cylinder Shield
 

Here is a sheet metal cover I made to shield the master cylinders and brake/clutch lines so the heat from the close proximity of the headers doesn't cook the fluid. The master cylinders on the new generation Hurricanes are mounted on the floor box along with the floor mounted pedals.

Here is a pix of the master cylinders/lines and header.
http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d.../PC300247R.jpg

A pix of the shield made from aluminum. All "polished" up with scotch bright and WD40.
http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d.../PC300245R.jpg

And a couple of pix of it installed.
http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d.../PC300248R.jpg

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d.../PC300249R.jpg

Hopefully, this should eliminate any problems with the heat. I left it open in the front to connect the reservoir lines.

Russ, nice work. I love the floor mounted pedals on the HM 2xxx series cars.
It may be overkill, but I added some 1/4" foil backed self-adhesive insulation under my heat shields. I figured the alum heat shield could get pretty hot and radiate heat to the MCs and lines.
Keep posting - love the build thread.
Matt