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I was lucky. My later model Contemporary had the mounting brackets already for my new billet linkages. Yeah, expensive, and it did take a little machining to add a little necessary clearance, but it sure works well. Much stronger than stock Jag carriers. And looks slick too. As soon as I get my new camera I'll take some pics. Rich
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Wow first post and look what he comes up with. What a great networking tool we have here huh! NFS I sent you a PM about the fixture. This is what the set up looks like without my fixture in the way.
http://img10.imageshack.us/i/wattssmall2.jpg/ |
Hey Doug and all!
My car sits just as you see in the pic... save for a brand new "Acton" roll bar freshly painted and bolted into position. I will be under it probably tomorrow night and will try to get those pics for you. Any of you CCX guys have any doubts about your roll bar, Nick's unit is the only way to go. So far, despite being somewhat time consuming, this thing has been abreeze to install. The chrome bar I removed, believed to be original CCX equip, was pathetic to say the least. Wall thickness of only .080" as opposed to Nick's .120" and not even bolted in place, just slid over plugs and held only in place by the rear leg angle and the grommets. I opted for added length to meet club rulings for open cockpit cars, 2" over the top of my helmet, as I do plan on tracking it soon. I strongly suggest Nicks replacement. What an awesome job! Thanks boat loads Nick!! Added note: Just ordered some Avons! Will report on them in a couple of weeks. |
This morning I found the Jig assembly! (Now that I think of it I believe I still have the instructions too)
I'll post pictures this evening if time permits. I do have the watts linkage installed. I致e been very busy with other projects, life, work, etc. (I知 sure all you know the drill) so the car has been sitting. This spring I want to get the car out, so I知 going to work towards that goal. Like I said previously the watts linkage is in. right now I知 working on the front ride height, and installing a rear swaybar. NFS |
I "rented" the contemporary jig 20 some years ago when I did my watts linkage. At first I was very happy with the watts solution, my tires were rubbing in the front of the wheel wells under acceleration and the watts linkage solved it completely. I did have one recurring problem, the bolts that attach the links to the center pivot arm would break and let the link drop into the half shaft universal joint. It would bounce on the joint at highway speed looking for a chance to lock up the rear, usually while I was trying to get to the shoulder. After breaking a couple more I laid the geometry out in Autocad and swung the arcs. It became evident why the bolts were breaking. I cut the original mounts off the frame and re-welded them in the new locations. It has been about 10 years and I have not broken a bolt. I did add springs to the links that will pull them up out of the way if they ever do break but I think the problem is fixed. If you do install a watts linkage make sure that the hub carrier if free to move up and down through it complete range before you install the shocks. If it binds in the travel the bolts will eventually break.
I have some pictures on my site that show the old and new watts locations. http://www.edwinwhite.com/gallery/Cobra?page=1 |
Hey Ed that's a nice example of a CCX. You've got a good gallery there with all kinds of useful shots like the rocker oiling etc. You know already with the hardtop bar being so short and it not being connected to the car by anything more than a slip fit not to ever test it. Back to watts it looks like you moved the rear mount up and the front one down? Dave's works well and his rear one looks the same as your location.
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OK, here are some pictures of the jig. I have detailed notes I took when I installed the Watts Linkage, the trick is I値l have to find them.( LOL) It痴 a very easy jig to set up and figure out. I still remember exactly what has to be done. What I can do is take pictures of the jig installed on my hubs to illustrate the use of the jig. I will be out of town for a few days when I get back I値l take a few pictures of my setup.
NFS |
Nice! Just a guess but the holes between the frame mounts look like they're 16" apart ;-)
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Hi Nick, I believe it’s 17.75
If you look closely you can see on the spacers that are used between the watts linkage hub and the jig are both stamped 17 3/4 |
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Today I finished up making a couple of vertical arms for the rear sway bar out of stainless, I put them on for a trial fit. The whole top assembly joint where the hiem end bolt - attaches to the swaybar is very close to the watts linkage, I think too close for my liking. Tomorrow I値l remove the rear wheels, bolt everything down attach a couple of 3/4" clamps on the bar to prevent it from moving from side to side. But ultimately it looks like I値l have to go the Speedway Engineering bar. (Probably for the best anyway)
The pics are crappy but you know what I mean. http://C:\Documents and Settings\joe...)\DSCF0461.JPG http://http://C:\Documents and Setti...)\DSCF0459.JPG http://C:\Documents and Settings\joe...)\DSCF0463.JPG |
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Ok, so I got everything tightened down, I only have a 1/8 of inch clearance (on both sides) between the bolt that goes through the hiem end and the watts assembly. Also the vertical bars weren稚 totally perpendicular. Removed the whole swaybar assembly, ordered a Speedway Engineering Bar.
Attachment 16694 |
Okay lads here we go. I measured the car wheel centre to fender lip and also the angles of the dog bones (lower control arms) with the car sitting level and the weight on suspension etc.
[IMG]http://img63.imageshack.us/img63/3749/watts003.th.jpg [/IMG] [IMG]http://img198.imageshack.us/img198/2373/watts004.th.jpg[/IMG] You can see I got an average of 4 deg measuring both sides. I think you should spend some time with the height, rake, wheel/tire size etc as the stance can make it look mean and correct or something like a cartoon character version of a Cobra. |
Get the car jacked up and on stands remove the wheels and disconnect the coilovers.
[IMG]http://img121.imageshack.us/img121/2382/watts001.th.jpg[/IMG] Then shim, space under the hub to get the same DB angle. |
I have played with my programs and come up with some brackets that fit the chassis pretty well, hopefully in the right location.
[IMG]http://img715.imageshack.us/img715/4682/watts009.th.jpg [/IMG] Interesting to note the hubs on this car had been cut back to presumably give some swaybar clearance. The link is disconnected from that at the moment but we are trying to fit sway bar and watts into this set up. [IMG]http://img811.imageshack.us/img811/8391/watts006.th.jpg[/IMG] |
Nick, if you want to borrow the CC watts Linkage Jig let me know.
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I would be really interested in the jig and the instructions. Probably quicker and easier to just measure it rather than send it, what do you think? It looks like the jig I was going to make. I am thinking if the jig and the bottom of the carrier are on the same angle they should be good. I can confirm that by going up and down with the jig to see if it keeps the same chassis mount locations.
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So Nick...you are going to do the watts "and" sway bars? Is this the way it would normally be done? Just wondering.... I'm chomping at the bit to get behind the wheel!!! Thanks for all your hard work.
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Hey Mark, your hubs had already been chopped back so it was made to fit a watts and a swaybar in there. That is the ideal set up and it has all been nylon bushed BTW so it just keeps getting better for you. On stock hubs I am looking at the Speedway splined end swaybar to get a little more clearance to run both. I am making one of these for a high HP CCX that has chomped a hole behind his left butt cheek right through the rear inner fender from the wheel moving forward! I really believe the big cars with monster mills need a forward back brace of some kind especially if you have some rubber that gives traction. I just looked at a Unique with the radius rods going rearward off the lower control arms on a Jag set up.
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I can measure if you like or send it whatever you prefer. I can take full measurements and send them to you. Agreed swaybar is definitely the way to go, I’m installing my S E bar right now (when I can find the time).
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