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Old 05-19-2005, 04:03 PM
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Default Grinding into reverse

David
My SPF 1049 Cobra has a hydraulic clutch with 351 and Tremec tranny. I just got the car late last year and it grinds when shifting into reverse. Also, the pedal engagement point is a little too close to the floor for me. Do you know how to adjust the clutch pedal? Does it have a cyclinder on outside of bellhousing (which I assume would be adjustable), or does Superformance use a hydraulic throw out bearing (which I assume would be non-adjustable).

I have never had a car with hydraulic clutch, so I'd like some feedback before I screw it up.

Thanks
Warren

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Old 05-19-2005, 05:12 PM
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Is reverse below 3rd? If so try putting it into 3rd first then shift into reverse. This works for my Richmond 5
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Old 05-19-2005, 05:26 PM
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I had the reverse grinding problem for awhile, but only when hot. It could be as simple as your fluid boiling if the line runs near the headers/sidepipes. I went to a higher temp fluid and better insulation, which solved the problem.

It could be the slave adjustment if you're having trouble shifting into other gears on occasion too. Do you have an external slave (which is adjustable), or a hydraulic throwout inside the bellhousing? If you have no other shifting problems in any other gear, I'd look at the lines first.

You need to look underneath the car first before anyone can help. It's not an SPF or toploader question, but depends entirely upon what type clutch set-up was installed, which is unrelated to car or trannie type.

EDITED Why is this in a toploader forum?
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Old 05-19-2005, 05:32 PM
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Clay,
I love the MD flag!! I am from MD... Please send it to me
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Old 05-19-2005, 05:41 PM
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Sounds like you may not be getting the clutch to release completely. Is this a hydraulic throwout bearing or slave cylinder clutch?
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Old 05-19-2005, 05:48 PM
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Your bellhousing needs to to be dialed in. Its not an easy job. The tranny has to come out and you have to put a dial indicator on it. I believe it should be no more than 5 thousandths out of round. Now if the grind is not that bad, just put it in 3rd before reverse. I believe this stops the internals of the tranny from spinning and makes it easier to shift into reverse. If this doesnt help, I would have someone dial the bellhousing in, if left unchecked it will wear out bearings and seals prematurely which can run into even more money wasted down the road.

On the SPF there are several ways to adjust the clutch. Even with an internal throwout bearing. Under the dash there is a pivot that will allow several settings that will bring your pedal up and down. Its not easy to explain on the computer, you have to get under there and look around.
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Old 05-19-2005, 05:50 PM
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Vic, as I said above, it may not be releasing because of hot fluid, as I fought this problem for awhile, even though the external slave was adjusted properly, and all other gears were fine.

It appears from his post, he doesn't know what the clutch set-up is from his question (internal throwout or external slave).

He was asking what SPF uses. The answer is nothing...........they don't install engines or trannies....that's up to the finisher.
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Old 05-19-2005, 06:09 PM
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I assume your shifting into 1st or 2nd FIRST to stop the trans gears from turning BEFORE shifting in reverse? If not, you can pretty well EXPECT reverse to grind a little bit because the trans gears, even in neutral will continue to "spin" for some time after the clutch is engaged.
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Old 05-19-2005, 06:50 PM
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Not true Ernie, if everything is working properly, that shouldn't be necessary, and is not in my case with a toploader. It does help if things are a bit off.

It was true in my case, when things were a bit off.
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Old 05-20-2005, 03:59 AM
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Mine begins a bit of reverse "grinding" when adjustment is off!!

You mention the clutch pedal is too close to the floor....Try adjusting to engage about 1" to 2" away from the floor and I think you will find the answer??

I have had a tough time with heat deterioration of clutch cables and have driven home a few times with no clutch...quite a challenge in traffic!!

I recently installed a new cable with insulation...Hope it works!!

Good Luck!!

Coosawjack
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Old 05-20-2005, 04:55 AM
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i have a tremec 5 spd in two cars...and as excal says , ya gotta stop the gears from turning before going into reverse. i always use the rule of : FIRST FIRST.. before going into reverse ! i go into first gear ever so quickly, then it slides into reverse immediately without any grinding. otherwise let it sit in neutral for several seconds, and sometimes no grinding into reverse or a minimal amount. but FIRST FIRST works, THEN reverse.

try that before you start adjusting anything. BIll.
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Old 05-20-2005, 05:01 AM
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Wait several seconds for the gears to stop? Man thats a lifetime,

I always back in, so when I pull up and stop and immediatly shift into reverse, I get a little grind if I don't wait first (or use first). Same on the Excalibur 5 speed as my ERA top loader.
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Old 05-20-2005, 05:04 AM
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the waiting is not foolproof, and seems like forever....and of course, embarassing at a car show or cruise in when you back in and grind those gears listening to the mumbles of onlookers saying " drive much ? " or 'rookie'...FIRST FIRST is FOOLPROOF in both of my tremec 5 spd cars ! Bill.
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Old 05-20-2005, 03:17 PM
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I took out the Cobra for a ride this afternoon.

Tried the FIRST FIRST before reverse and NO GRINDING !

Thanks to all that recommended that procedure.
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Old 05-20-2005, 04:04 PM
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First first, but never the less, Clay still makes a valid point. When my clutch is even just slightly out of adjustment it's tough to get into reverse without a little grind, while the forward gears still shift fine. Thats because reverse gear (at least on a top loader) is square cut teeth and of course non synchro, thus more prone to "grind" anyway.
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