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It's a trade-off, the joint is stronger without the drilled passages however you also may not know when the grease has leached out either. I've seen my share of the maintenance joints fail as well, when you pull it open (if it isn't already) one of cups is bone dry. These cars are just hard on parts, the driveline was never designed with 600hp and a manual trans pounding the hell out of it in mind. |
Being a farmer I've seen my share of grease vs. greaseless. With the idiots I employ, grease it means 4 or 5 shots til the u pops and oozes. :CRY: Even after ordering them just 1 maybe 2 shots, they revert back to old. Now I'm not saying you do this but it doesn't take much to pop the seal and allow all kinds of crap to enter the u or pillowblock or whatever! Long ago I've gone to greaseless whether or not it has a zerk. Unless the u has any angle, once or twice a year is fine unless centrifugal force throws it out. My 2 cents. 209
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The Spicer Life series that are sealed and have a solid "Cold Forged" cross (no drilled passages) and are bulletproof. The seals are specially designed and the machined surfaces are diamond smooth. I found them a little difficult to locate but, once I had them in hand realized they were a far superior item. The seals as I recall are sort of greenish gold. Install & forget.
Spicer Life Series Universal Joint Cross-Over Index Series Kit Part # 1310 / SPL22-1X 1310 / Ford 1-1/8" SPL22-3X 1310 / 7260 SPL22-4X 1330 / SPL25-1X 1330 / Ford 1-1/8" SPL25-3X 1330 / S44 SPL25-4X S44 / S44 SPL25-6X 1330 / 7290 SPL25-7X 7290 / 290 SPL25-9X 1350 / SPL30-1X 1410 /SPL36-1X |
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I never thought about it before, but there is a correct and incorrect way to install a u-joint. It does make sense to put the hole in compression. http://craigscobras.com/tips/ujoint/index.htm Could incorrect orientation be the cause of some failures? Rodger |
The joint will rip in half under this type of failure (not very common), typically one of the brearing pins has snapped off (or worn off in the case of a dry joint which is also a lot of the failures).
In the picture posted you can clearly see the snapped off pin that the bearing cup rides on. Replace your driveshaft U-joints regularly, they're pretty cheap. Your half shafts see about 1/2 the force the driveshaft does so replace all of the joints every other time. While you have the driveshaft off check your free-play on the pinion... |
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I had an entire thread on how I lost my u-joint but now I can't find it for some reason. To answer the question, this happened on the street with street tires. I'm running 335/35/17 Michelin Pilot Sports. I eased onto the throttle pretty good one morning and I started to experience some mild wheel hop. Before I could get off the gas, the u-joint let go. Scared the crap out of me. Thank goodness for the drive line safety loop. There are a few more pictures in my gallery. After this happened, I upgraded to the custom ERA rearend so I could completely eliminate the wheel hop. I also switched to the Spicer maintenance free u-joints. Quote:
Chris |
Thanks for sharing. Don't remember the thread but it would have gotten my attention!
I could see how hop could cause the driveline to 'stop/start' rapidly and shock the joint. But I suspect the joint had a problem waiting to happen. I've had hop at the track (and street) on occasion but never a joint failure. The IRS joints take that pounding also. Guess I've been lucky but all the zerks get grease every 2nd year. |
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