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10-17-2009, 04:49 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: New Britain,
CT
Cobra Make, Engine: Size 10 Feet
Posts: 3,028
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Not Ranked
Pat's configuration (quick-release steering wheel) is a little different from the stock setup where the canceling pins are built into the steering wheel hub. I'd be careful shifting the signal switch back - you might damage the little arms that are part of the switch's canceling mechanism. Instead, loosen the clamp at the front end of the upper column and slide the inner column back, together with the column housing.
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10-17-2009, 04:51 PM
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Half-Ass Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 22,025
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally Posted by strictlypersonl
Pat's configuration (quick-release steering wheel) is a little different from the stock setup where the canceling pins are built into the steering wheel hub. I'd be careful shifting the signal switch back - you might damage the little arms that are part of the switch's canceling mechanism. Instead, loosen the clamp at the front end of the upper column and slide the inner column back, together with the column housing.
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Thanks Bob. I knew it is never as easy as it first seems. 
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10-17-2009, 05:48 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: California,
Ca
Cobra Make, Engine: NAF 289 Slabside Early Comp Car with 289 Webers and all the goodies. Cancelling the efforts of several Priuses
Posts: 6,592
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Not Ranked
__________________
Rick
As you slide down the Banister of Life, may the splinters never be pointing the wrong way
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10-18-2009, 06:27 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: E BRUNSWICK N.J. USA,
Posts: 3,841
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Not Ranked
Mine downed down about 3" to work on
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10-18-2009, 08:23 AM
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Half-Ass Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 22,025
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Not Ranked
Rick, you're saying that instead of loosening the upper clamp bolts that Bob wrote about you remove those bolts entirely thus allowing the steering column to drop down towards the floor. You then pull the dash out a couple of inches and angle the top of the dash out and remove the gauge by coming in from above the top of the dash, not by lying on your back on the floor coming in from below. Correct?
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10-19-2009, 03:53 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: E BRUNSWICK N.J. USA,
Posts: 3,841
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Not Ranked
Yes I split the steering shaft too.
patrickt Pat This is what I did. All my boxes are mounted under the dash on the r/s. I didnot have alot of room, just enough for hand and small speed racket to get behind there. I did have to pull on the main trunk of the harness a little. If you are having issues follow what Bob said. My car is a early 400#, your is in the 700#'s. Bob has made some changes between my build and yours. I don't have a quick change steering wheel either. Not allowed in NJ on street cars. Will not pass inspection. Rick L.
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10-21-2009, 08:06 AM
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Half-Ass Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 22,025
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Not Ranked
Better Shot
Here's a better shot showing the steering column/turn signal assembly which would be the next thing in your way if you wanted additional room. I think there's still an additional quarter to half inch of space for my dash to move (which I didn't need).

Last edited by patrickt; 10-26-2016 at 10:32 AM..
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