http://www.capitalareacobraclub.com/...ve1/2funny.gif

Seriously, they're fine. But I would think long and hard about putting a small block in your car, regardless of the horsepower/torque numbers. That's a big decision. I know it's tough, especially with the warm weather just around the corner, but you have to take your time. If you want an ERA, then hold out for an ERA. In the long run, it'll be worth it.

Dallas, whatever brand you do decide to go with, just make sure you stick with the single rollbar (i.e. "original") look. That way you won't become an easy lightning rod around here. :LOL:

There's tons of information within the archives here on the differences (some subtle, others not so) between various manufacturers. And everyone has their favorites and loyalties, and for different reasons. Just educate yourself as much as possible before you start cutting checks. Buying these cars is often much easier than selling them, especially in this economy.

-Dean

Go with the dual roll bars. At least on my ERA, they unbolt in five minutes and give you the ability to "convert your look.":cool:

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...ollbars001.jpg

Yes. I would take a guess that the majority of new Cobra buyers become new Cobra sellers fairly quickly. You have to make sure you get the right one for you. Both Superformance and ERA are good choices.

Most people out there in the world couldn't tell the difference between the two nor could they spot the difference between a small or big block. It's about what you want.

Most people can't tell the difference between a donor-built FFR and Larry E's Kirkham after it's gone through the mud.

OK with mud, then I'll give you that one, but it better be thick and 100% complete coverage with the mud. :eek:

So, do the six gaping holes in the deck lid whistle when you drive? :LOL:


http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...rollbar001.JPG

Those are filled with custom plugs that match the color of the body and the stripes. Someone around here had chrome ones that actually looked quite nice, but that wouldn't go with my motif.:cool:

From 100% safety to 0% safety in five minutes...pretty cool. :LOL: Assuming you only remove them for show or parade purposes. ;)

Rest assured, I do not drive without roll bars (both of them).;) But I have to say that the no-roll bar look is quite fetching.

Maybe you should trying throwing people a curve ball, and drive with the passenger roll bar only. :D

Actually, he should make the car fully remote and then he and his children can drive it like a drone, thus no need for any roll bars.

Excellent idea. :LOL: :3DSMILE:

He could hire me to drive the car around for him. I don't need no stinkin' roll bar(s) to make a fool of myself.

Uhh, Bob... remember, I had everything bolted in to place to fit me. Nothing's adjustable. You would have to borrow that funny foam rubber "seat within a seat" thing that Doug made so he could test drive it. Now that would be embarassing.:LOL:

Ooooh. That must hurt, especially coming from the highly-respected people of New Britain, CT. :LOL:

No, you misread it. It was actually a compliment.;)

Dallas - I'd take a closer look at the ERA in California. #675. That car has an actual 427 sideoiler motor - I know a guy in Florida who had a couple of those - very rare motors - and he was selling them for $20 - $25k. The car also has the ERA custom rear end - check it out on their web site - it is a jewell - a piece of art. An aluminum housing that the differential is mounted in - with oversized outboard brakes. That car ALSO has a Richmond Gear heavy duty racing transmission. It is a super smooth transmission to drive, has really nice gear ratios and an Overdrive (5th gear) that is around a .73, which is not so exaggeratedly low as the .64 in many Tremec's. The Richmond gear is a more expensive tranny. This ERA is a very very well laid out car. You can always try and negotiate price a little as well - but this motor, rear end, and tranny combination is nothing but the best. That 427 should last forever - a ton of torque - and not 'forcing' big HP numbers and torque out of an overstroked small block. Reliability. The car has 2,500 miles on it - it isn't even broken in. That car would cost probably close to $75 - 80 K to duplicate. Also the ERA - in my opinion - does have THE most rigid chassis in the business. The 3" * 4" rectangular tube chassis - with the " X " cross member under the cockpit - is spectacular (most others use 2" * 4" rect tube or round tube). Add to that that the ERA is about the ONLY replica out there using chassis members that wrap up to shoulder height and around the passenger compartment. The door latches - they are mounted on a steel plate that is bolted to a steel chassis member. Most other 'replicas' mount the door latches (not the hinge) onto glass pads bonded to the body. You could pick up the ERA by the door latches. Details details. I recommend that you take a day and visit the factory in New Britain Ct. You will see the details that make it a superior machine. That car in California is a very special one - man I wouldn't let that one get away. My opinion, and hey, it's fun to look.

I agree with Rickd - if you want a pre-built 427, that's the one to grab. Unlikely a better deal will come along anytime soon.

You guys did a great job of leading the horse to water. Now it's up to him to drink. Sounds to me like he's not quite ready to drink (buy).