Hood bottom sides

wolf k · #1 (**permalink**) 09-30-2010, 05:55 PM

Received ERA 2139 last week, block sanding now. How did you guys finish the bottom side of the hood?

Snakebit · #2 (**permalink**) 09-30-2010, 06:09 PM

Lots of sanding and blocking. Start with 220 grit on a DA sander to get it fairly smooth to apply a thin coat of bondo and block sand with 80 grit and a flexible sanding block to follow the curves of the hood. Best to use the 3M long board paper with the adhesive back. Skim coat with Evercoat Metal Glaze. Wet sand with 320 and prime.

DanEC · #3 (**permalink**) 09-30-2010, 07:31 PM

I scuffed it up good, skimmed it with Rage Gold, blocked it down good, second coat of Rage Gold, blocked it down again. I have a lot of fiberglass showing now with random areas of Rage Gold in low areas - but it's very smooth. I spread filler up under the edge of the reinforcement piece with a plastic spreader and put adhesive backed 80 grit paper on a metal spakling trowel that I could slide up under there and work back and forth to sand it smooth. I'm going to put at least 3 coats of Slick Sand on it and block it again and take a close look at it. It probably won't be perfect like the top side of the hood but it should be pretty uniform and smooth.

Being a bit of a non-conformist, I also did the underside of the trunk lid.

Dan

Snakebit · #4 (**permalink**) 10-01-2010, 06:44 AM

Take your time on the hood. The hood will be up most of the time as everyone wants to see the engine. Sounds like you are well on your way. You can buy a cheap can of black laquer and lightly dust the areas that you are sanding. After block sanding, you will see where the high and low spots are.

cobrajeff · #5 (**permalink**) 10-02-2010, 08:56 AM

On my ERA, I bought a sheet of aluminum at the local hardware store, and had my painter slit the back edge of the hood so we could insert the aluminum sheet between the hood inner and outer skins.

I used a "427 style" rivet-on scoop on my car, and the rivets help hold the aluminum in place. Then he glassed the back edge back together. Have to be a little careful how thick thick the aluminum sheet is...the first one I tried was a little too strong, and wanted to flatten out the normal curvature of the hood...had to go back and get a thinner sheet of aluminum.

Did the sand, fill, and smooth on the underside of the trunk - the curvarture there was way too tight to insert an aluminum panel in there.

regards,

Jeff

wolf k · #6 (**permalink**) 10-02-2010, 09:17 AM

Jeff,
Sheet of aluminum is what I was leaning towards. Good idea to slit the back edge so you could slide it in and under. Did you use anything else to bond the aluminum to the fiberglass other than the rivets?

snakebitekit · #7 (**permalink**) 10-02-2010, 09:59 AM

sand, filler,sand, filler, sand, filler, you get the idea.

Well worth the effort. When you pick up the hood and it shines like the outside. Only draw back is keeping it waxed like the outside. It is more difficult when it is on the hinges.
I also did the wheel well lips, so when you feel under the fender the lip is smooth.
We are a crazy bunch.

ack fia · #8 (**permalink**) 10-02-2010, 03:18 PM

I had mine finished by Metal Morphus (SP?) and it looks great.

*13* · #9 (**permalink**) 10-02-2010, 07:37 PM

I just primed & painted the the back side. I figured if the framing wasn't enough of a dead giveaway then they are going to ask anyway. The top of the hood was a little tricky in the scoop area. The FIA hood scoop is molded in. I spent a good amount of time there. Skim coat of bondo should work for you, as stated above.

cobrajeff · #10 (**permalink**) 10-03-2010, 09:47 AM

Wolf -

Didn't use anything other than the scoop rivets to hold the aluminum sheet in place. Not so sure it would really conform nice and tight to the outer surface of the hood without the help of the hood rivets holding it up in the center. If you go with the molded in FIA scoop, the aluminum sheet may not work as well as it did for me.