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Powder coat my chassis?
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http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/era-speak-bob-putnam/109197-powder-coat-my-chassis.html)
| DanEC |
02-17-2011 09:04 PM |
Here is a vote for having ERA powdercoat the frame. Unless you just want to, or plan to paint the underside of the body, having the frame powdercoated will save you pulling the body and some dissassembly from it's shipped state. Bonding the body was no big deal for me. They have the body all centered and temporary screws that you put back in and use for realignment. I don't really see how anyone could screw it up as long as they use an appropriate epoxy adhesive. Same with the riveting. Just depends on how much you are willing to do yourself or if you prefer to pay someone else to do it.
Dan
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| xb-60 |
02-17-2011 10:18 PM |
:confused:
Quote:
Originally Posted by DanEC
(Post 1110706)
Here is a vote for having ERA powdercoat the frame. Unless you just want to, or plan to paint the underside of the body, having the frame powdercoated will save you pulling the body and some dissassembly from it's shipped state. Bonding the body was no big deal for me. They have the body all centered and temporary screws that you put back in and use for realignment. I don't really see how anyone could screw it up as long as they use an appropriate epoxy adhesive. Same with the riveting. Just depends on how much you are willing to do yourself or if you prefer to pay someone else to do it.
Dan
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Dan - do you mean to say that you can't have ERA bond the body onto a painted chassis? |
| cscobra |
02-17-2011 10:31 PM |
ERA can bond the body to either a painted frame or a powdercoated frame--no problem.
Even though ERA painted my frame, I still removed the body to drill a few holes that were easier to reach that way, and to thoroughly paint the underside of the body. Every bit of the car was easy to clean/prep/polish/paint/etc. that way, too. ERA drilled about 99.5% of all of the holes necessary for me, which has saved me a great deal of effort.
It's just one of the ways I'm enjoying the build process and this hobby.
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| Jim Holden |
02-18-2011 06:00 AM |
The powdercoat process requires "cooking" the chassis in a large oven. The heating/cooling process does harden the steel itself (in addition to the powdercating).
Jim
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| DanEC |
02-18-2011 07:43 PM |
Quote:
Originally Posted by cscobra
(Post 1110718)
ERA can bond the body to either a painted frame or a powdercoated frame--no problem.
Even though ERA painted my frame, I still removed the body to drill a few holes that were easier to reach that way, and to thoroughly paint the underside of the body. Every bit of the car was easy to clean/prep/polish/paint/etc. that way, too. ERA drilled about 99.5% of all of the holes necessary for me, which has saved me a great deal of effort.
It's just one of the ways I'm enjoying the build process and this hobby.
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I'm still trying to figure out how you got ERA to drill all the holes for you. My panels were all punched but I had to drill about 80 to 90% of the holes through to the frame. You must have bribed Peter with food or something. :3DSMILE: |
| Wbulk |
02-18-2011 08:07 PM |
If you decide to paint look at using POR-15. Summit Racing has a new chassis paint to.
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wbulk
(Post 1110913)
If you decide to paint look at using POR-15. Summit Racing has a new chassis paint to.
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How do these hold up in comparison? isn't the POR-15 more like an epoxy or multi part process? |
I had my chassis powdercoated as well. I still don't have it on the road so I can not attest to how it stands up in actual driving conditions but I haven't been able to mess it up with all of the build process yet.
I did have a couple of major changes since it was powdercoated. The biggest was removing one of the rear brake caliper brackets to accommodate Wilwood brakes. I had to think long and hard about it before I cut it off. However, after using POR-15 and their top coat product, one has to look fairly close to see the modification. The same may not be true for other locations that might need changes made after powdercoating is done but you can definitely cover up and protect the area that was worked on.
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| DanEC |
02-19-2011 06:06 AM |
Quote:
Originally Posted by PDUB
(Post 1110959)
How do these hold up in comparison? isn't the POR-15 more like an epoxy or multi part process?
|
They do say POR-15 should be top-coated for UV protection to prevent it from degrading. I'm not sure this is much of a factor for a chassis that is not exposed to sunlight. It does apply well and flow out smooth. Looks sprayed in most cases. Very hard surface. Need to be careful applying it because if you get it on yourself you will be wearing it for a couple weeks. Same for the garage floor (exept forever probably), etc. They also also make a semi-gloss version if that interests you.
Also Eastwood makes a specific chassis paint that is a good product. I used an earlier version years ago on some suspension parts and it's tough and held up well. |
| tboneheller |
02-19-2011 04:47 PM |
The powder coating is peeling off of my chassis from the brake fluid that ate through the hoses that run inside the footbox.
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| Rickd |
02-20-2011 06:50 AM |
XB-60 - With the dropped street car dash - if you are 6' or over - you should try to stay with the racing seat rather than the "427 style street seat". The "street seats" are really comfortable (steel tubular frame with spring mounted canvas straps covered with padding and the leather cover). I'm only 5'9", and my right knee is virtually always touching the bottom of the dash. I drove another FIA I was considering buying, that had racing seats, and I was comfortably well below the dash - never got close to it (however it was a racing dash). Lower seat and higher dash.
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| cscobra |
02-20-2011 09:57 AM |
Quote:
Originally Posted by DanEC
(Post 1110903)
I'm still trying to figure out how you got ERA to drill all the holes for you. My panels were all punched but I had to drill about 80 to 90% of the holes through to the frame. You must have bribed Peter with food or something. :3DSMILE:
|
I asked Peter to have ERA drill all of the holes for me just as ERA would do if they were going to seal and rivet the body and the panels themselves. I paid only $150. extra for this service. I wanted to ensure accuracy, and it seemed a reasonable investment.
I'm glad they did it for me--my work is much easier, smoother, and faster as a result. |
| strictlypersonl |
02-20-2011 03:32 PM |
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rickd
(Post 1111108)
XB-60 - With the dropped street car dash - if you are 6' or over - you should try to stay with the racing seat rather than the "427 style street seat". The "street seats" are really comfortable (steel tubular frame with spring mounted canvas straps covered with padding and the leather cover). I'm only 5'9", and my right knee is virtually always touching the bottom of the dash. I drove another FIA I was considering buying, that had racing seats, and I was comfortably well below the dash - never got close to it (however it was a racing dash). Lower seat and higher dash.
|
We're working on giving the driver a little more legroom. We just did a Drop-dash that was moved up about an inch from the normal position. |
| xb-60 |
02-20-2011 07:33 PM |
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rickd
(Post 1111108)
XB-60 - With the dropped street car dash - if you are 6' or over - you should try to stay with the racing seat rather than the "427 style street seat". The "street seats" are really comfortable (steel tubular frame with spring mounted canvas straps covered with padding and the leather cover). I'm only 5'9", and my right knee is virtually always touching the bottom of the dash. I drove another FIA I was considering buying, that had racing seats, and I was comfortably well below the dash - never got close to it (however it was a racing dash). Lower seat and higher dash.
|
Thanks Rick, I'll keep that in mind. From what I've seen on this forum so far, the passenger's seat as a standard 427 seat and a Kirkey or similar for the driver's seat isn't uncommon, yes?
I'm 6'2", but I really like the dropped centre dash and the instumentation options that configuration allows.
Mk 4 dashes seem to be dropped a little less but the dropped section is wider than that seen on CSX 2558. Maybe a bit of 'adjustment' to design is OK. I haven't sat in one yet.
Any other taller people with dropped-centre dashboards with comments?
Glen |
| xb-60 |
02-20-2011 07:49 PM |
Quote:
Originally Posted by strictlypersonl
(Post 1111192)
We're working on giving the driver a little more legroom. We just did a Drop-dash that was moved up about an inch from the normal position.
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Thanks Bob. I'm trying to focus on what I want before I speak to you guys and come and see you (you're around 10,000 miles away from me!).
So, related to my original question, the chassis is powdercoated or wet-sprayed, my choice, but either way, you guys can bond the body to the chassis, and it doesn't have to come off again, correct? The only reasons for me to bond body to chassis is 1. it's cheaper, and/or 2. if I really, really want to do it - yes?
Glen |
| xb-60 |
02-22-2011 07:59 PM |
Quote:
Originally Posted by strictlypersonl
(Post 1111192)
We're working on giving the driver a little more legroom. We just did a Drop-dash that was moved up about an inch from the normal position.
|
Do you have any pictures of this Bob, or if no pics, in your opinion is it noticeable if you don't have a standard dropped dash to compare it with?
Glen |
| strictlypersonl |
02-23-2011 05:45 AM |
Sorry, no pictures. The car has already left the building. :D
I'm just a little guy, so I fit in everything, but I was told that the owner was well over 6ft tall and was quite comfortable.
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