Powder coat my chassis?

[xb-60]

Hi all,
I’m working down a list of essentials so I can maybe start thinking about actually ordering my 289FIA from ERA.
I got to ‘powder coated chassis’ on the list. I know a little – but not really a lot – about powdercoating and wet-spray, and I’m not sure I would really benefit from ticking powdercoating.
Anybody got any compelling reasons, or just your opinions?, as to whether the cash is well spent, or am I just being a cheap-skate?
Has anybody got any long-term experience with a painted chassis on an ERA car?

Glen

[Rick Parker]

Glen:

I am not in the ERA crowd but did elect to have my chassis powdercoated VS paint. I think long term the powder coating will hold up better, especially to chemicals, oil, gas etc. The downside if there is one that if you chip it you really can't repair it, that would be when you touch up the nick with paint. Mine can be seen in my gallery at varous stages both prior to and after the powder coating, including the bare chassis as it came out of the oven. It is very easy to keep clean and it retains the gloss. JMO

[cobrajeff]

I would go with the powder coating. My ERA was built before ERA offered the powder coated frame option. So, it's painted, and has held up pretty well, but I think it would be even better if it had been powder-coated. I had a number of other parts for my car powder-coated during the build, and I do believe it holds up better than paint. It's not completely impervious to scratching and damage, but holds up better than paint.

Face it - whether the frame is painted or powder-coated, you're not likely going to ever strip the car down and have the frame re-done to fix a chip or scrape - you're going to use some black paint out of a can or bottle, and brush-in any touch-up - it'll look the same whether the base is paint or powder-coat.

Jeff

[KevinW]

had my chassis powerdcoated (standad finish on a crendon).
It stands up much better to build wear'n'tear than paint - recommended.

example here

http://crendonreplicas.com/tools.html

you might also be interested in the camber/caster gauge download.

[289ERAkit]

I've slightly banged on the frame several times....no chips! Seems to be baked on....and I know it's worth the $ to have them do it. Get the body bonded to the frame. Know exactly what you want for a dashboard layout....look at several dozen. .. and research your seats. Kirky's will have more side to side support.... ERA would probably cover them if you buy the frame...(with heat ?) Find them and ask to sit in them. Lastly....get you engine with all the v-groove pulley's on the front.....these things are a pain to line up. Everything else....goes together well. ... Just a warrning....everything about these cars defies monetary logic when doing your own build. Consider buying an existing car...and fix it to your liking. I've got 40K into it...and it's not running yet.... but for me... I would do the same. mike

[Z-linkCobra]

The only real down side to powder coating is if you ever decide to change something or add something it takes quite a bit to get it off so you can weld to the frame. If its done right it will require grinding it off to get to the bare metal. After that its hard to touch up and make look nice if its in an area where it will be seen. Powder coat does no blend or feather very well.

Other than that you cant beat the protection it offers. Brakefluid will tarnish it but not make it wrinkle up and fall off like paint...if you happen to spill some or break a line.

Just my thoughts.

[RestoCreations]

+1 on Powdercoating

[Cobra446]

Go for The Powder Coat. My car ERA 446 still looks like new!

[rustyBob]

If your not building a show car i say paint it....
i have had to touch mine up a couple of times and
it still looks like new ( mines painted )

[*13*]

Just have them do it & bond the frame to the body. If you are doing the build, this is the way to start. you get the car all mounted & safe, on a set of dolly's. No need to look back, Money well spent! This is the way I started & wouldn't think of doing it otherwise!
The other issue is always resale. Powdercoated frame that is in good condition always looks better than a painted frame. May cause an educated buyer to ask were else you skimped. Just thoughts, Good luck!!! Let me know if you have any questions about the ERA build! Hyde

Originally Posted by xb-60

Hi all,
I’m working down a list of essentials so I can maybe start thinking about actually ordering my 289FIA from ERA.
I got to ‘powder coated chassis’ on the list. I know a little – but not really a lot – about powdercoating and wet-spray, and I’m not sure I would really benefit from ticking powdercoating.
Anybody got any compelling reasons, or just your opinions?, as to whether the cash is well spent, or am I just being a cheap-skate?
Has anybody got any long-term experience with a painted chassis on an ERA car?

Glen

[cscobra]

Mine's painted--looks great, wouldn't change it.

And, bonding and riveting the body and the aluminum panels to the frame is no big deal--it comes assembled that way anyway (except for the rivets). Just having ERA drill ALL of the holes will save you time and ensure accuracy. This way, when you lift the body completely off of the frame (as you should do at the proper time), you can paint the entire underside of the body with ease. I used satin black spray paint (500 degree engine enamel, actually). Not only does this cover all evidence of pink fiberglass, it also tends to "seal" the fiberglass. Whether this enhances longevity or not is open to question, but it looks better (more finished) and has more of a "quality" appearance. ERA recommended this to me, but I don't think that they have the time to do it themselves. If your body is already sealed to the frame when it goes to the paintshop, it won't get done, either.

Just something to consider. The whole process is NOT hard to do--just follow the outstanding ERA manual!

[SP01715]

On my toys I try and use powder coat over paint anytime I can because like others have said it holds up alot better than paint. The only exception is on one of the offroad cars I have because it takes alot of abuse and like others said the paint can be touched up. I have alot of stuff powder coated on the car, but things like the roll cage, rock sliders, bumpers I have painted so a quick touch up with a rattle can is easy. I have a friend that owns an offroad race team, and all their race cars are painted for easy touch up. The cars he builds for customers that want the bling factor usually choose powder coating on everything because it is tough and will look better than paint over time (as long as it is not abused too much). I would powder coat if I was you because it's a street car that should not see alot of abuse (at least in the places that will be visible).

[FIA-ERA]

Hello Glen, I sent you a PM with some suggestions too. Thanks, Matt

[xb-60]

Thanks for the replies. I've been lurking around the edges of this forum for a while now, picking up bits of information here and there, and I am still amazed at the response to requests for information and the opinions.
I'm thinking I will order the chassis painted - reason being if it needs repair or mods in the future, paint can be easily repaired....and it's cheaper too. A future buyer (but this car should be one I can hand on to my sons!) might think where else has he skimped, but if that allows the budget to include 6-pin Trigos, I'm happy.

Maybe I should add in a list of the basics that I want:
· Maker – ERA
· Model – 289FIA
· Colour – probably viking blue, no stripes. Black roll bar
· Wheels – Trigo, very dark grey (almost black but not quite) all over
· Motor - 289 or 302, with adequate power, and I want to be able to rev it. It also needs to be tuneable for emissions compliance in Australia
· Exhaust – standard ERA exhaust exiting in front of rear wheels, but able to be changed to exit at rear (for registration)
· Rear suspension – standard ERA
· Gearbox – WR Toploader
· Sway bars – convince me? but doesn't really matter at this stage
· Heater
· Lowest possible seating position, leather seats
· Right hand drive
·Instrumentation influenced by CSX 2558 and jeffy’s recent 289FIA

Glen

[*13*]

Sounds like a good-looking car! Sway bars are probably something you'll end up adding. If you can, save the extra shipping & have them added to the pkg. They aren't very expensive, to begin with. Peter is a good resource when it comes to gearing. He'll give you his opinion on gearing to go with the motor you build, to suit your intended driving. You won't need a ton of horsepower to make this gokart go like a madman. If you get up near 400 hp, you'll have seriously scary fast car.

[xb-60]

Thanks Hyde. I've been thinking about doing this for a long time now. There are few things to sort out at this end to make sure I can actually register it here, and then the fun can start. Glen

[tkb289]

Glen,

Your build plan sounds great and you have put some serious thought into it, Jeffy's car is an excellent source of inspiration.

ERA is nearing completion of a turn key minus FIA roller in 'street trim' for me and it's been a great experience. Initially I was going to do more of the work myself, but as time went by, decided to have ERA do more.

Some thoughts:

- Read the ERA assembly manual from cover to cover a few times.
- Go through all of the options on the ERA website.
- Look at build threads like Jeff's to get a sense of all the different configurations, I am sure no two ERAs are built exactly the same.
- If you are a big / tall guy, you might consider the FIA dash, as it will give you more leg room than the drop down street dash. ERA also has other tweaks they can do to help big / tall guys fit into the car.
- Peter and crew can do just about anything, but don't stray too far from the basic formula, listen carefully to what they recommend.
- A powder coated frame or painted frame, the pros and cons are listed above, but I would definitely recommend having the body bonded to the frame. Some guys have done their own and the ERA manual is excellent, but it just seems like a lot of work and it's money well spent to have ERA do it in my opinion.
- Biggest tip of all, be patient ... ERA will build you an excellent car, but it does take time!

Keep us posted!

- Tim

[xb-60]

tkb289 - Thanks for the thoughts Tim. I agree with almost everything you've said.
Yes I've been thinking about this for a while, probably since not long after I got my first slot car set with red and green FIAs. Still got the green one.
And yes, having the body bonded to the frame is a no-brainer for me, but I have to have the drop dash so that I can have the CSX 2558 instrument setup. I'll work my legs in around it all!

Glen

[Jim Holden]

Powder coat does "harden" the steel somewhat. I had my ERAGT2077 stainless chassis powdercoated and then I drilled to fasten some of the aluminum panels on. I went through several bits.
I've also had my aluminum uprights ceramic coated as well as other bits and pieces. It helps to keep the various parts from oxidizing, etc.
Jim

[xb-60]

Originally Posted by Jim Holden

Powder coat does "harden" the steel somewhat. I had my ERAGT2077 stainless chassis powdercoated and then I drilled to fasten some of the aluminum panels on. I went through several bits.
I've also had my aluminum uprights ceramic coated as well as other bits and pieces. It helps to keep the various parts from oxidizing, etc.
Jim

Yes powder coat is a hard and tough coating that is definitely resistant to abrasion, so would be harder than normal to drill through.
Got to admit, I'm still leaning towards wet spray mainly because of its repairability (and less cost). Both methods need proper surface prep. of course.
My other 'old ride' is 35 winters old, still with factory paint underneath. Not exactly factory fresh, but not demanding attention.
Thanks again for the replies. Much appreciated.

Glen